Via Appia May 2024

[Emanresu]

From Barletta it's an almost straight run down the coast to Brindisi using the SS16 (Strade Statale) or the Ciclovia Adriatica. The SS16 is a fast dual carriageway (we didn't go on it) but there is an quiet access road that runs parallel. We wouldn't have picked this up on a map as a map resolution wouldn't show how close they were but the apps did. When it got boring we went off to the country routes instead. Plenty of bike lanes too though generally they were more for our convenience than need. I have to compliment Italian drivers for the care they take around cyclists.

The route also takes you through some picturesque towns such as Polignano a Mare which is famous for its cliff diving and blue seas. There were plenty of opportunities to stop for a gelato or two.

Our final destination, as far as cycling was concerned was Brindisi. Towards the end, we were taken off the SS16 route by Komoot and found ourselves in front of a security check for one of the walled resorts along this coast. Without any Italian and despite our best google translate, they wouldn't let us through with our bikes and we were facing quite a detour to get back onto a sensible route. Reluctantly we had to ride off but 100m later around a corner we spotted a pedestation entrance with turnstiles. So we unloaded the bikes and manhandled our stuff over the turnstiles. At the other end, the security guard just shrugged his shoulders and let us through. Miles saved with a bit of cheek, but Komoot must have a setting to avoid this which we've missed.

Finally through the olive groves and onto our final destination at Brindisi and a few beers at the harbour. 500K completed.

PS. In the last picture, there is a guy on the piano with no one around. It was out of tune and painful to listen to.

 

[Emanresu]

Did I mention the world's best pizza? Was a bit of a disappointment but we found a great pizza place in Brindisi, a little local place just round from the Ibis Hotel. Well out of the tourist area, you eat what the locals would eat. In my son's case, the 4 person maxima pizza to replace the calories burned over the 10 days.

Not all the accommodation was a good or as helpful as Ibis who went out of their way to help us. They even let us disassemble the bikes in the Reception area so we could get them in the taxi to the airport. The further away from Rome, the nicer the people were.

Some accomodation was downright odd. Rooms above a pub, came with a disco ball in the toilet in case you wanted to boogie in the middle of the night.

Holidaying or touring in Italy is a joy. There are cyclists everywhere from the locals on the rickety bikes to the PAILS (pension age in lycra) on their Specialized S-Works or some nice Bianchi carbon racers. Have cycled from the Aosta valley in the north, over the hills, through Tuscany, Rome and down to Brindisi and always felt welcome. If you are choosing somewhere to go, chose Italy.