Adjusting/Setting up centre pull caliper brakes

[SPHDS]

I can understand if you all think I am being very blond with this, but is there a trick to setting these blooming things up without having about 4 hands!?! The brakes are basically these (minus the rust!) -

The only way I can get them to work effectively is to either clamp the blocks to the rim tight, then undo the cable bolt, pull the cable tight and push up the 'bridge' thing and tighten the bolt, but this rarely means the brakes actually work without tightening the adjustor (bit pointless if you want some adjustment!)

or

Take the wheel out, squeeze the blocks together, undo cable bolt, move the 'bridge' and tighten up the bolt, put the wheel back in and hope it ain't too tight (more hit and miss, but gets more effective brakes in the end!)

Sorry if I'm being stupid!

 

[Bigtwin]

Nope, you have it covered. They are a pain in the arse, which I suspect is why they died out rather - there are just many better ways to do what they do.

Long barrel adjuster is the best bet. Set them up in the middle, then you can loosen to get the wheel out, and tighten to get some stopping power out of them.

 

[SPHDS]

Cheers Bigtwin, thought I was majorly missing a trick! Are there any other systems that would work better and be easier to set up/adjust?

 

[PpPete]

Lots - which ones you can use depends on what your bike is set up for.
If you have those brakes fitted as new then unlikely you have brazed on bosses for V-brakes or Cantis. If your fork and seat stay bridge are drilled you can fit dual-pivot calipers, which often have a Q/R lever for getting the wheel past them. Beware though - two different drillings, for different attachments (bolt-type 6mm hole, allen-key type 8mm IIRC)

 

[Bigtwin]

Wot e said. You can get a shim to fit the narrower to the larger mount hole, and you can drill out, but that's a bit extreme.

I'd saunter down to your LBS and let them give you some options. Essentially, any dual-pivot set-up is going to be better than those, although the pads will no longer double up as pencil erasers.

What kind of bike do you have it on?

 

[SPHDS]

Cheers. Nope no way to strap on V's! I presume the bike has had these brakes from new - got the bike from Ebay. They seem to be bolted on (10mm nut I think) but have no idea what the dia. of the hole is! The bike is one of these - Raleigh Granada (this one ain't mine!) -

What names do I look for/avoid when it comes to dual pivots (don't want ones made from used pie tins, but then don't want to pay a ton just for a name!)

 

[Bigtwin]

Can't see a huge problem with upgrading brakes on that. Summat like some Tektros are probably about right for price v value. Or measure the drop from mount hole to pad centre, then measure up some 105s or similar (you may need standard or long drop) and scan eBay.

If you ring St John's Cycles I bet someone there will say something sensible and affordable, they are very good for things like that.

 

[jimboalee]

These stirrups are much like the Mafacs on my Pug.

There are tricks.

1/ Set the bridge with the adjuster on the lever end at its loosest.
2/ Assemble the bridge cable with the wheel OUT the bike.

and most important -------

3/ Use 20 mm ( across the brake tracks Mavic MA1 rims ) and 700C x 20 clinchers.
Else, use 700C x 22 tyres on a Mavic MA2 ( 22 mm across the brake tracks ) rim.

Also use 'lead in' attachments between stirrup frame and brake block so the tyre goes straight between the blocks.

With natural rubber blocks, my Pug stops on a postage stamp.