Cost of replacing radiators?
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fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Cost will be down to how easy the swap is - i.e. if they are identical dimensions, then a straight swap, but if not you'll need a plumber in to sort the pipes. You'll probably also need a flush !
Newer radiators with the fins on the back are super ! We just have one big radiator (6ft) down stairs for the open plan living area, a medium sized one in the kitchen (3 foot) and the rest of the house has 2 foot wide radiators in bedrooms/toilet !
Newer radiators with the fins on the back are super ! We just have one big radiator (6ft) down stairs for the open plan living area, a medium sized one in the kitchen (3 foot) and the rest of the house has 2 foot wide radiators in bedrooms/toilet !
Linford
Guest
How old is old ?
You can swap out the valves for TRV's fairly easily. The rads on your walls have been bought to suit the size of the room and the amount of external walls, and efficiency doesnt really come into it if they are not clogged. You would probably just benefit from running a system flush for a week or so (or as long as they recommend) draining each rad down, taking it outside and running a hosepipe through it for 10 minutes to get rid of any sludge.
If they are looking dated, then get rid if you are chasing a new 'look', but I installed my combi CH system myself nearly 20 years ago (when you could) and they are still selling the very same type of rad in Wickes now as they were then.
Another thing to note is that TRVs jam up periodically, and a modern condensing boiler is by far the weakest link in the chain. I 'invested' in a Uber efficient SEDBUK A class Viessmann boiler (with the Uber price to match),about 3 years ago, and I've had nothing but problems with it since.
You can swap out the valves for TRV's fairly easily. The rads on your walls have been bought to suit the size of the room and the amount of external walls, and efficiency doesnt really come into it if they are not clogged. You would probably just benefit from running a system flush for a week or so (or as long as they recommend) draining each rad down, taking it outside and running a hosepipe through it for 10 minutes to get rid of any sludge.
If they are looking dated, then get rid if you are chasing a new 'look', but I installed my combi CH system myself nearly 20 years ago (when you could) and they are still selling the very same type of rad in Wickes now as they were then.
Another thing to note is that TRVs jam up periodically, and a modern condensing boiler is by far the weakest link in the chain. I 'invested' in a Uber efficient SEDBUK A class Viessmann boiler (with the Uber price to match),about 3 years ago, and I've had nothing but problems with it since.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Our rads are 17 years old - double or single with fins on the back - my folks rads are 30 years old, but hooked up to a newer condensing boiler.
We still have our Baxi Solo boiler but on a tank/ open rad system. In the 12 houses built, only 4 houses got the traditional set up as they were bigger, the other 8 got combi's - all combis have had their boilers replaced !
We still have our Baxi Solo boiler but on a tank/ open rad system. In the 12 houses built, only 4 houses got the traditional set up as they were bigger, the other 8 got combi's - all combis have had their boilers replaced !
Linford
Guest
What I question is the efficiency (cost) gain between flushing the existing ones and swapping for TRV's in terms of fuel saved, and paying a plumber to re work the pipes and hang a whole new set of them which are likely to be all different shapes.
I think it would take decades to recoup any marginal saving you might garner from any 'investment' in the new ones.
It's your money though, go knock yourself out !
I think it would take decades to recoup any marginal saving you might garner from any 'investment' in the new ones.
It's your money though, go knock yourself out !
Aperitif
Meme bar
- Location
- ...I don't have much idea - really.
You have missed the thermostatus quo.
Go straight to bed and do not pass Grundfoss.
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
Amount of water used is irrelevant - there's a certain amount of water you need to fill the system, then it just circulates. However, fitting thermostats will be easier on new rads, rather than chipping off umpteen layers of paint and corrosion. I'd consider doing it yourself though - it's not tricky unless you're the type of muppet that can't even fit a BB without breaking it.
Oh.
Hang on.
Best get a plumber, maybe. Yeah.
Oh.
Hang on.
Best get a plumber, maybe. Yeah.
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
unless you are very lucky and the local plumbers merchant is open till 5pm on a saturday as i discovered yesterday Thank god !!
one thing people have not yet mentioned is balancing the system after the valves/rads have been changed this is esssential for an economic efficient system as it stops the boiler short cycling. TRVs are less efficient for short cycling control as they don't link back to the boiler firing control like a room stat does. it also depends on how the system is piped and if there are zone valves etc.
sometimes a good flushing can solve most efficiency issues. april/may is the best time to do CH works if the system is working NOT January.
Linford
Guest
Advice when I fitted mine was to leave at least one rad on conventional valves so the boiler stat has something to work on. The only rooms where I see a TRV actually earning its keep is in the bedrooms where you want a cooler environment than the rest of the house. Htey are't very reliable devices, and even brand name ones like Danfoss have a habit of seizing up. I had to sort one out in my parents house for them a couple of weeks ago. Just needed a bit of WD40 and working the pin with a pair of pliers for a couple of minutes to free it off
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
^^This^^
Sadly, January seems to be when central heating packs up!!
Globalti
Legendary Member
I really enjoy plumbing, especally soldering copper pipes. Have a look at my nifty little solar project, here:
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=255833&start=0
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=255833&start=0
