Help with basic maintainance for a begginer, please

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gietzy

New Member
Hi. I've just bought a bike after not really exercising for 10 years and wanted some tips on maintenance. I've recently lost 30kg and have another 20 to lose so hoping some regular exercise will help and I don't want my bike to die prematurely before I get there.

I bought a Carerra Zelos 2015 because it was cheap and because if I get into my cycling seriously I'll get a better bike a year or two down the line.

What sort of regular maintenance should I be performing? I'm in Aberdeen so the conditions will get pretty harsh soon and I may have to leave it outside (covered) for 10 hours during the day whilst I'm at work. I will be using it lightly to start with (2 miles each way to work) but when I'm a bit fitter in a couple of weeks I'm planning to start longer rides in the evening and at weekends.

Basically what I want to know is how often and what sort of maintenance should I be performing to make sure the bike stays safe and lasts a decent amount of time? I am a complete beginner so nothing is to basic. Thanks for any help you can give.
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Clean it.

Lubricate the chain and gears. (This is a much discussed subject and you'll find plenty of opinions on here - have a search, look for "mickling" or the mickle method. Be prepared for 900 opinions on what to use to lubricate the chain)

Keep the brakes adjusted so the pads are as close to the rims as you can get them without them rubbing (use the knurled barrel adjuster on the brakes). Keep your eye on the brake pads for wear.

Check that the headset bearings aren't loose. Put front brake on and rock bike back and forward - if it "knocks" there is play in the bearings. Lots of youtube videos on how to adjust.

Check the tyres periodically for bits of embedded sharp stuff.

That's about it for regular stuff I think. Until/unless something starts to go wrong.
 

the snail

Guru
Location
Chippenham
If you're leaving it out in the rain all day then the oil will get washed out and road salt will attack components, so it will be a good idea to clean the bike regularly, and put some oil on the moving parts like derailleur and brake pivots, cables where they go into the outers. Also check the brake pads for embedded grit and pick it out, as they'll pick up grit riding in wet conditions which will destroy the wheel rims - do this right away if you can hear graunching sounds when braking or there is grey stuff on the rims.
 

Rickshaw Phil

Overconfidentii Vulgaris
Moderator
+1 for keeping the chain clean with the Mickle method, which to save you searching is here: LINK. And for what it's worth, my preference is chainsaw oil.;)

Checking the tyres has been mentioned but the obvious hasn't which is to keep the tyres up to pressure. They'll roll faster and it helps resist punctures if you do.

With autumn and winter coming on you're likely to have some wet rides. Try not to put it away wet overnight. The chain in particular will develop surface rust or seized links if it's not dried, especially once they start spreading salt.
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
Go on to YouTube and look for maintenance advice. There are hundreds of good people who have taken the trouble to share their knowledge. Have your computer near the bike. Pause the clips and re-wind often. Have fun.
 

Pat "5mph"

A kilogrammicaly challenged woman
Moderator
Location
Glasgow
Invest in a track pump and check pressure (ideally before every ride), values are written on the side wall of the tyre. This helps in keeping punctures at bay.
Get a chain wear checking tool, when the small hook fits into a chain link it's time to think about getting a new chain, when the big hook fits you need to get a new chain for sure - or get your local bike shop to do this, it saves wear on the cogs, so less expenses. You can normally renew the chain 3 times before having to buy a new cassette (rear cogs). Components wear out faster in winter road conditions.
 

Custom24

Über Member
Location
Oxfordshire
One thing no one has mentioned is mudguards. If you want to use your bike in the Winter, mudguards and a mudflap on the front will save it getting dirt all over the drivetrain, meaning less cleaning and less wear. I see mudguard eyelets on the front of your frame, so I suspect they can go on the back as well.

Apart from that...

Clean the chain regularly, as others have said. I don't like the Mickle method, and prefer a chain bath using degreaser and then re-lubricating.

Clean the cassette. While the chain is off is easiest. I just use some folded paper towel with GT85 sprayed onto the towel, working the fold in between the sprockets, on my road bike. (The Mountain bike needs a more serious clean).

Similarly clean the chain rings and jockey wheels.

Don't spray water under any amount of pressure (e.g. a hose or pressure washer) onto or near any part of the bike that has grease or bearings inside it. This basically means the bottom bracket, wheel hubs and headset. For a road bike, this probably wouldn't even cross your mind as they don't tend to get that dirty.

I use a web lube when it's wet or likely to be wet and a dry lube when it's dry. Fenwick's or Finish Line wet lube is probably what you want at the moment. I do think there is some benefit over 3 in 1 oil, although others say it's all marketing.

I personally believe in the chain rotation method, although others on here think I'm mental. I have 3 chains (they were all new when I bought the bike), that I rotate - I use them on the bike for a couple of weeks, and then clean the chain, take it off, and put on the next one. It's not that much hassle as they all have reusable quick links in them, and having the chain off makes cleaning the chain rings and cassette easier. But I think the gains involved using this method are marginal.
 

Drago

Legendary Member
Annually strip your bearings and repack them with grease. Do drip oil into the bearing cones as it just washes the grease away.

Keeping the bike moderately clean allow us you to spot trouble early, and waxing extends the life of the painted and plated finishes.
 
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