Quick relese clamp with carbon seatpost in allot frame?

[PaulSecteur]

Hi,

A few months ago I won one of these cheap on ebay...

I certinly is a bit more comfy than a standard post. But as it was cheap it was a bit tatty so I started looking for a nicer one for the best bike, and put the tatty one on the commuter.

Thing is... the commuter often gets left outside the gym where I use a quick release to remove the seatpost.

Is it OK to use a quick relese seatclamp in an alloy frame as long as only sensible torque (and possible some carbon paste) is used?

 

[black'n'yellow]

Thing is... the commuter often gets left outside the gym where I use a quick release to remove the seatpost.

wouldn't the logical option be to use a non-QR clamp, for this very reason..??

Is it OK to use a quick relese seatclamp in an alloy frame as long as only sensible torque (and possible some carbon paste) is used?

see above

 

[Rob3rt]

You don't know the torque on a QR, so with a carbon seatpost, I personally would say don't use one, fit a non-QR clamp and tighten it to the correct torque setting and leave it alone!

 

[PaulSecteur]

I spy with my little eye 2 people that have not lived in or near Wolverhampton! Trust me, not removing a seatpost is an invitation for someone with an allen key to remove it.

Is there such a thing as a locking clamp with a unique fastening?

 

[black'n'yellow]

I spy with my little eye 2 people that have not lived in or near Wolverhampton! Trust me, not removing a seatpost is an invitation for someone with an allen key to remove it.

in which case, I wouldn't risk leaving my bike there at all - in case a passing thief equipped with a full bicycle tool kit and work stand decided to completely dismantle my bike...

 

[PaulSecteur]

The frame and rear wheel is secured with a quality U-lock, the front wheel with a flex cable.

They can be gotten around, but it takes more effort and decent tools to get passed them. The seatpost clamp is just an allen bolt that, and allen keys are easier to buy. Its all about percieved acceptable risk. Im "happy" with the big lock on the frame, not so happy with the ease of getting the seatpost off.

 

[amaferanga]

Cable lock through the seat post rails?

 

[Lee_M]

onyourbike sell a security QR kit, the QR only works if the bike is upside down. that might flummox the thieves

 

[Drago]

Problem with QR on carbon is that the CF is very sensible to clamping forces and should be torqued to a specific figure, which you can't do with QR.

I'd clamp it up and fill the head of the Allen bolt with liquid metal type filler, and file it flat.

 

[Rob3rt]

Can't you just sling a cable lock through the seat stays and up through the saddle rails and use a non-QR clamp? You really don't want to be over torquing a carbon seatpost!

Problem with QR on carbon is that the CF is very sensible to clamping forces and should be torqued to a specific figure, which you can't do with QR.

I'd clamp it up and fill the head of the Allen bolt with liquid metal type filler, and file it flat.

You a fan of making maintenance as hard as possible?

How the hell are you going to get the bolt back out without substantial effort when you need to adjust/replace/inspect/maintain the part?

 

[Wornout]

You don't know the torque on a QR, so with a carbon seatpost, I personally would say don't use one, fit a non-QR clamp and tighten it to the correct torque setting and leave it alone!

That was my understanding too - quite easy to to crush the post, or so I was told...

 

[Drago]

Can't you just sling a cable lock through the seat stays and up through the saddle rails and use a non-QR clamp? You really don't want to be over torquing a carbon seatpost!



You a fan of making maintenance as hard as possible?

How the hell are you going to get the bolt back out without substantial effort when you need to adjust/replace/inspect/maintain the part?

If you've used carbon specific anti seize paste there's not really a need to remove it. However, I'd it does need to come out such filler isn't as impenetrable as filling it with weld. Drill a shallow 3 mm hole and you can screw in a self tapper and pull it out with pliers right easy.

It's a simple but most excellent visual deterrent, and short of removing it each time there's none better.

 

[Rob3rt]

See I consider that substantial effort relatively speaking. Maybe it's just me but I like my bikes to come to bits as easy as intended! I routinely strip and maintain my bikes thoroughly including removing, cleaning and greasing the seat post and clamp. Maybe that's why my 3 year old bike that does 200+ miles a week still looks pretty much like it just rolled off the showroom floor!

 

[HovR]

You could try a security bolt such as these (may not be the right size) to replace standard clamp bolt - Or just use a saddle lock.

 

[Drago]

See I consider that substantial effort relatively speaking. Maybe it's just me but I like my bikes to come to bits as easy as intended! I routinely strip and maintain my bikes thoroughly including removing, cleaning and greasing the seat post and clamp. Maybe that's why my 3 year old bike that does 200+ miles a week still looks pretty much like it just rolled off the showroom floor!

refit with anti seize paste, and a smear of low modulus silicon sealant stops any water penetration dead, meaning there is no need to ever remover the seat post if you didn't want to. Properly prepared there is no maintenance need to ever remove it.

My oldest bike (barring the Elswick I'm currently restoring) is my 1996 Alpinestars and spent several months chained in the open when I was in Iraq. That too looks like it rolled out the catalogue because despite being used very hard I maintain it within an inch of its life.

If you're in the habit of removing the seat post its not the best solution. However, it's much nicer than carry an additional lock, and even nicer still than having someone relieve you of it.