Rear hanger

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Milena

Active Member
I have a Carerra Crossfire 3 bought new last year.
Took it to (Mod Note: shop name deleted) in Canterbury, Kent, UK yesterday (Friday, 25th 2024).
I told (Mod Note: mechanic name deleted) what the issue was and had called in to ask if it was ok to bring it in on that day for indexing. Gears were sometimes not shifting and I would have to shift up or down a gear, then back to the gear I want before it changes to the one I want.
Sometimes gears weren't changing fast enough.
Both issues are sporadic.

He checked the gears after propping it up on a bike stand thing. Said the gears seem to be fine. I explained the above again to him.
He checked the hanger using a DAHG tool and showed me that the rear hanger was out. He used the tool differently to how this Parktool video shows to use it:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXfvW0L3iLM


He used the black rubber things as markers and didn't fix the steel round tube thing in place.
He didn't use the same part of the wheel by rotating the wheel. In the video, the guy says to use the valve as a marker so you know which part of the wheel to use.
He did a measurement at 12'oclock and 6'oclock.
6'oclock one he said was out by quarter of an inch.
He said I need a new hanger.
I asked where I can get one from and if Halfords sell one. He said they do but they bend very easily.
He showed me ones he sells for £21.99 each. Pilo D16 it is called.
He said they are CNC cut so they are stronger.
He said with the Halfords cast ones, you take the bike out to Sainsburys and it gets bent very easily. It's not worth my time to fix that. They bend too easily.

He got his assistant to explain to me how exactly they are stronger when I asked. They guy started talking about molecules and alignment etc. I couldn't follow.
I gave him the go ahead for replacing the hanger with the one he sold and had. Pilo D16.
He fitted it.
He also took a cast hanger, put it in a vice and snapped it with pliers. He then put a Pilo one in, to which his assistant exclaimed 'You're gonna bend that?!', to which he said, 'I've had it in the drawer for ages'.
He then told me to take the pliers and try bending it. I asked if he's sure, he said yes.
I didn't want to damage such an expensive part, so I didn't apply too much force. It didn't bend.
BUT note that HE bent the cast one himself. It would have made more sense to let me do it so I could feel the difference between the cast and CNC.
He is also MUCH stronger than me.
He told me to look at the inside of the one he snapped and said 'look how brittle it is;.

I asked him to show me the new one is not out of alignment for comparison using the DAG tool. He had already screwed the derailer back on. He said of course he can show me. Then was upset/frustrated when he realised he had already fitted the derailer back on. He got his assistant to remove the deariller. Then he showed me using the tool.

He checked the gears again and said it's fine. I asked don't they need adjusting?
He said no. Told me to take it for a spin to check.
Before that we had a discussion about the hanger and what issues present themselves when its bent. He said ghosting. I asked what that is. He explained. I told him I am NOT experiencing that at all. I ONCE AGAIN, told him what issues I was having. He said he doesn't know what is causing those issues.

I took the bike for a spin. Gears still had the issues I described above.
He took it for a spin himself. I was in the workshop when he did. He called me over once he finished and said 'try that'.
I asked him if he changed anything. He said he tightened the gears.

I test rode it. Gears change louder now and overall seems to be worse, with most gears taking longer to change it seems.
It was closing time so I didn't say anything.

I paid the £21.99.
Came back home to learn what the tool is called that he used. Went down a rabbit hole of research. Found out that the tool is also used to fix the hanger by bending it into place.
He never told me the old one can be fixed, and told me a new one is needed.
He said he gets parts for trade prices, but this is being sold for the same price + P&P online. So does he sell for profit?
I learnt that the hanger is a part that is sacrificial. It is SUPPOSED to break so as not to damage the frame and derailler both of which are expensive to replace. Especially the frame.
As I was getting my gear back onto me, he got his assistant to take my bike out. I asked his assistant if I was getting in the way, and he said, nah I know what it is, it's cus it's close to closing time.

> Given I was not having ghosting, was I just sold a part I didn't need? The issues I faced have not been resolved.

> Given this Pilo hanger is so rigid and does not bend or break easily, is this not a bad thing given that the hanger is meant to break/bend to protect the frame etc?

> Should he not have just fixed the old one? Remember, he just told me I need a new one. I had no idea the old one could be fixed, until I came home and did research.
Also apparently the fact the hanger is CNC cut is NOT what makes it stronger, but in fact is the composition of the aluminum used. Both cast and CNC hangers are made from Aluminum.
The videos show that after replacing the hanger with a new one, you should always check that the new one is not out of alignment. He didn't till I asked him to, and only 12'oclock and 6'oclock. Apparently 3 points of contact should be checked.

I forgot my old hanger there. I hope he still has it.

MOD NOTE:
Name of shop and the name of the mechanic have been removed from this post.

Edit:
He has replied via email to me saying this:


Of course, I will put it to one side for you to collect.

Just a note about the Google review you left, I did explain that although other bicycle repair shops sell the cheap cast aluminium hangers, and some may try to straighten them, it is not something we sell or attempt to do. (I am pretty sure he didn't tell me this).

The issue with cheap cast aluminium hangers is that they are incredibly brittle and if you try to straighten them, they can sometimes break.

I demonstrated this to you when I put a cheap hanger in the vice and it broke easily. I then put in a brand new CNC hanger for you to try and bend, just so you can understand the difference between them both.

Please be assured if your bicycle had a CNC hanger to hanger to start with, we would have straightened it with the tool.

I hope answers your query as to why we didn't attempt to straighten it.

And then he replied to the reply I sent him saying this:

The issue with the cheap cast aluminium is they bend far too quickly and easily.

The primary object of the hanger is to protect the frame. A CNC hanger should break before frame damage occurs.

Cheap hangers that bend too easy will cause possible catastrophic damage to derailleur, chain, wheel and frame.

Please see below notes of why hangers such as Pilo, Wheels Manufacturing and Meta are better than the cheap Chinese hangers we are seeing on many bikes.

If you are still not satisfied, I am happy to order you a replacement cast hanger and replace the Pilo. I will then refund the difference in price.
 
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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Welcome back @Milena
OP Line #4: The symptoms described are consistent with your hanger being bent.
OP Line #8: Your LBS then demonstrated the hanger was bent. Once a hanger is bent it can be re-bent but it is then significantly weaker: as an LBS I would not do this. An individual like you can, 'cos then when trying to straighten it, or subsequently riding, it breaks, it's 'on you'.
OP Line# : When a hanger breaks the result can be damage to the RD, the spokes, and the tyre if you're going at speed when the rear wheel locks up. Don't think the frame is likely to be damaged, unless you drop it as a result of hanger failure.
OP Line #'Sainsburys': CNC alloy hangers seem stronger than the cast ones, but I have not done deliberate destructive tests on either. I suggest you believe the guy. £22 is a reasonable price for a CNC hanger plus fixing (or did you pay more for that?) and great the LBS had one to fit your Crossfire: normally they don't. You have no idea what the quality of the hanger you have found 'online' is, whether claimed CNC or otherwise. Then add postage and labour.
Also as said, the CNC hanger will break well before the frame does; sacrificially, as designed.
https://www.raceti.com/blog/the-complete-guide-to-mech-hangers/ These guys will sell you one for £13. So if you want, buy that and return the shop one. I'd charge £10 to fix it (given I'm not making any money on the supply).
You were right to ask him to check that the new hanger was vertical in both planes: he should have done this without asking (maybe he did when you weren't watching (in the workshop?)).
From your account, I recommend you trust the honesty and capability of the LBS and its staff. I know this is an issue for you, but please take my advice.
I also recommend you learn to index your gears yourself. Then you either have excellent gears or if not, you can only blame yourself, and have another go (or tweak). But with a vertical hanger this time.
 
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Milena

Active Member
Welcome back @Milena
OP Line #4: The symptoms described are consistent with your hanger being bent.
OP Line #8: Your LBS then demonstrated the hanger was bent. Once a hanger is bent it can be re-bent but it is then significantly weaker: as an LBS I would not do this. An individual like you can, 'cos then when trying to straighten it, or subsequently riding, it breaks, it's 'on you'.
OP Line# : When a hanger breaks the result can be damage to the RD, the spokes, and the tyre if you're going at speed when the rear wheel locks up. Don't think the frame is likely to be damaged, unless you drop it as a result of hanger failure.
OP Line #'Sainsburys': CNC alloy hangers seem stronger than the cast ones, but I have not done deliberate destructive tests on either. I suggest you believe the guy. £22 is a reasonable price for a CNC hanger and great the LBS had one to fit your Crossfire: normally they don't. You have no idea what the quality of the hanger you have found 'online' is, whether claimed CNC or otherwise.
Also as said, the CNC hanger will break well before the frame does; sacrificially, as designed.
You were right to ask him to check that the new hanger was vertical in both planes: he should have done this without asking (maybe he did when you weren't watching (in the workshop?)).
From your account, I recommend you trust the honesty and capability of the LBS and its staff. I know this is an issue for you, but please take my advice.
I also recommend you learn to index your gears yourself. Then you either have excellent gears or if not, you can only blame yourself, and have another go (or tweak). But with a vertical hanger this time.

Looks like you missed the bit where the LBS guy said he doesn't know what is causing my gearing issues and that the hanger being bent would only cause ghosting. Please re read what I wrote. I had to tell him 3 times what mu issues were. Please review the OP.
I also wrote that the gearing issues were never resolved.

I was standing right next to him while he carried out the work on my bike. It is not a typical LBS. You can stand there and watch and there is no labor charge. Charity place.
 
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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Looks like you missed the bit where t. . . . Please review the OP.
I also wrote that the gearing issues were never resolved.
Nope: I missed nothing. I suggest that you might judge that I have offered you a comprehensive comment (if not answer) based on repeated readings.
Specific 'answers':
> Given I was not having ghosting, was I just sold a part I didn't need? The issues I faced have not been resolved.
# You needed a vertical hanger: the old one was bent and would be unacceptably weakened. So 'no'.
> Given this Pilo hanger is so rigid and does not bend or break easily, is this not a bad thing given that the hanger is meant to break/bend to protect the frame etc?
# The hanger is stronger and less likely to bend, but it will bend, break even before the frame does. The hanger is fit for purpose.
> Should he not have just fixed the old one? Remember, he just told me I need a new one. I had no idea the old one could be fixed, until I came home and did research.
# I have explained why bending back the old one is not good practice and why the mechanic would not do it. It can't be 'fixed' as in "carry on now". A rider can bend it back (it may break doing so (I have done this)), and ride, pending if they have sense, procuring a replacement.
HTH
Please don't bother to thank me for trying to help and the effort involved: the pleasure is all mine. #Grateful
Your hanger was out of alignment and that can cause a variety of symptoms: yours and ghosting are among them.
Given you really want this "resolved" and that you look up lots of stuff: look up indexing gears, unclamp the RD cable, unscrew the limit screws, and do it yourself. @Cycleops has a favourite video he can recommend.
 
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Just an added note we always look at the hangers on any Carrera that comes in with 'gear issues' as basically they might as well be made with cheese; we actually have more Carreras with this issue than Probikes and Ammacos.

One poor guy seemed to be in every month for a bit as his son used to wreck his Carrera;he even managed to break a Wheels Manufacturing one :blink: with the derailleur and a mangled chain.
 
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Milena

Active Member
OP Line #'Sainsburys': CNC alloy hangers seem stronger than the cast ones, but I have not done deliberate destructive tests on either. I suggest you believe the guy. £22 is a reasonable price for a CNC hanger plus fixing (or did you pay more for that?)
It was £22 for just the hanger. Labor is free where I go. They do do not charge for labor. Only parts.
 

classic33

Leg End Member
It was £22 for just the hanger. Labor is free where I go. They do do not charge for labor. Only parts.
And into that price they will factor in part of the time spent in obtaining the parts required.

If they had just sold you the part, for you to fit, would you have been able to?
 
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Milena

Active Member
And into that price they will factor in part of the time spent in obtaining the parts required.

If they had just sold you the part, for you to fit, would you have been able to?

It's a charity place. They state they do not charge for labor. So.... and that they get parts at trade prices. I do not know how this charity place funds itself though and how the owner/staff make money. I assume the staff are not getting paid? But it is the owners full time job to run this charity place it seems and he does have some rather costly bicycles and gear.

Well fitting it is very easy. It is knowing to even check the part, having the DAG tool which costs £80+ and knowing how to use it, etc that of course I didn't know. And having a a torque wrench.

Most people, like myself do not know WHAT to check and HOW to check it.
There is SO much involved with maintaining a bike. So many parts, all of which must work in harmony etc.
 
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classic33

Leg End Member
Volunteers usually, and you feel put out by someone passing on their discount to you, and fitting it at no cost to yourself!
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Accept that no matter how careful and/or experienced you are, some hangers will fail [when you try to realign them]. Some crack, some snap clean off and others turn to plasticine, so try and have a spare on hand for any hanger you plan to realign
Great commentary from Pete (click to go to his complete post in the 'Hanger Alignment tool' thread) to reinforce the reason why a bike shop or charity mending shop will refrain from 'just bending a hanger back' (see my post above). If a hanger is just a bit out of alignment the risk is lower. @Elybazza61 also described this (above): the risk is higher with poorer quality hangers.
 
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Milena

Active Member
If you don't like it, go somewhere else, but expect to pay £30-£50 an hour labour (minimum wage, NI, pension, overheads etc.) or learn to look after your own bike (they aren't difficult).

They most certainly are difficult and require many expensive tools to maintain. The knowledge required requires studying. Just hydraulic brake course is £210. It also requires like anything practice and you don't use the knowledge regularly then you lose it.
Practice requires parts, tools and a cheap bike that you don't mind ruining in an attempt to maintain/fix it.
Good accurate tools are £100+ EACH
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
They most certainly are difficult and require many expensive tools to maintain. The knowledge required requires studying. Just hydraulic brake course is £210. It also requires like anything practice and you don't use the knowledge regularly then you lose it.
Practice requires parts, tools and a cheap bike that you don't mind ruining in an attempt to maintain/fix it.
Good accurate tools are £100+ EACH

I bled my brakes by using the guide which came with the bleed kit.
 
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