Terrible brakes

[RedBike]

I'm just trying to set the brakes up on my new CX bikes but they're terrible!!

I've brought Avid short 6 cantis, and i'm using Dura-ace levers. - I was expecting to at least be able to stop.

With the addition of my top mounted secondary levers there's so much 'flex' in the system that the dura-ace levers always run out of 'pull' (hit the bars) before the brakes are fully on.

Before I sling these secondary brakes has anyone got any hints for setting them up.

BTW. I can only position these secondary brake levers on my bars so they're right by the stem. This makes routing the brake wires leaving the levers somewhat difficult.

 

[djb1971]

The avids are fairly good as cantis go. I took the interrupter levers off my bike because I never used them and you needed a death grip to get good performance.

You need to set the pads really close to the rim and have the brake cable nice and tight. They wont work like dual pivots, you'll find the lever has more travel and feels softer but the brakes will work even when you have squeeze travel left. I like to have them set so that they lock the wheels with an inch of lever left from the bar, for those emergency stops.

You would do well to invest in some tektro cr520 cantis. They are a massive improvement on avids and frogglegs for stopping.

 

[RedBike]

Lol, i'm not investing in anything else. These have just cost a fortune. I've used the avids before so I know they work.

If I set the pads up so they're touching the rims the STI levers will still hit the bars before there's 'reasonable' braking force.
The secondary levers seem to pull much more cable so these will lock the wheels; but in order to do so you need a death like grip.

When I apply the brakes using the STI levers the outer cables and the additional levers visibly flex. Obviously this is robbing the power.

If I remove the secondary levers and just use one long outer cable as you would normally have then my brakes work fine!

 

[djb1971]

The best option will be to fit them all as you need but leave all of the tension adjustment ( grub screws normally) slack on the interrupters. Set the bike up with the cable really tight and the pads close. The sti's should work, if not tighten your grub screws and cable adjustment on the front cable hanger. The top levers will be really tight and need little movement but more effort to operate the pads.

TBH I took mine off because they were sh1t , I just use the sti levers now

What straddle cables are you using and are they set up high or low?

 

[djb1971]

Just to make sure you're doing it like the pros

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=146

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=19

 

[Steve Austin]

get rid of the top levers.

Why do you need brakes on a cross bike anyway!!

 

[papercorn2000]

Yeah, that's what trees and undergrowth are for!

 

[jpembroke]

and feet. feet make for great 'cross brakes.

 

[RedBike]

and feet. feet make for great 'cross brakes.

Now that could be a problem.
The top bar is a little on the high side. If I try and put both feet down at once I could well be in for a nasty shock.

 

[Steve Austin]

I guess you won't be slowing down much then!

 

[jpembroke]

just use the uphill/inside foot, speedway style, leaning the bike into the turn.

or get some huge shoes

(or a smaller bike)

 

[Dave5N]

Now that could be a problem.
The top bar is a little on the high side. If I try and put both feet down at once I could well be in for a nasty shock.

Get a new frame.

Cantis work well enough if you are scared enough - otherwise they are a bit crap - at least, they can be. I've got Frogslegs (no, really, I have) and I have seen oil tankers with better stopping distances.

Some of the cheap tektros seem better, but clog up more.