Trying to choose a lock

[Deb13b]

Urgh there's billions of them ! Is there a good review website that tests how long it takes to get through a lock ? I haven't got a clue which type to get, never mind what manufacturer.
For now the bike won't be left anywhere quiet, it will be chained upto railings in the mainstreet for short periods. ( there's nowhere else locally to secure it ).

 

[ttcycle]

No lock is 100% foolproof and I live in a part where cycle crime is a serious business.

The best lock I've used is ABUS Granit X PLus- it weighs a certain amount and costs a fair bit but is a strong lock that in tests would fail under edge grinder.


I lost a carbon fibre bike to a Kryptonite Bike lock of a high end similar cost- do not buy!

 

[vickster]

I have a Granit too, weighs a ton though! So I confess that mostly I use one of these (7 out of 10 for strength) when I lock the bike up on the high street or at Tesco! http://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/images/ProductImages/fullsize/Accessories/Others/BikelOCK.jpg

 

[e-rider]

The key thing is to get a high quality D-LOCK

all the cable type locks are crap (even the ones with hardened shells covering the cable); whatever it says on the packet don't believe it! You can cut through them all in 3 seconds with bolt croppers (which is what criminals do all the time), even the really thick £50 ones!

 

[BSRU]

I have an Almax chain with Squire padlock but it weighs about 7kg so I never carry it with me, I leave it at work. I also have two decent D locks for securing the wheels to the frame positioned to foil bottle jack attacks, again I leave them at work.

 

[frank9755]

Rather than debating whether Persil or Aerial locks are best, I tend to follow this advice when I am locking a bike somewhere public

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

 

[Wobblers]

There's a very good list of good locks over at LFGSS, here. Essentially something with a 16 mm thick shackle is best - but heavy! If your bike's insured, it's wisest to get a gold-rated lock: that doesn't necessarily mean it will resist attack but should at least satisfy the insurer's requirement for a decent lock. That gives them one less excuse to not pay out - but still check the policy's small print!!!

The Abus Granit X Plus and Kyrponite "New York" series have a reasonably good reputation.

No lock is 100% foolproof and I live in a part where cycle crime is a serious business.

The best lock I've used is ABUS Granit X PLus- it weighs a certain amount and costs a fair bit but is a strong lock that in tests would fail under edge grinder.


I lost a carbon fibre bike to a Kryptonite Bike lock of a high end similar cost- do not buy!

Sad to hear about that, ttcycle! What Kyrponite lock were you using and how did they break it?

 

[Wobblers]

Rather than debating whether Persil or Aerial locks are best, I tend to follow this advice when I am locking a bike somewhere public

http://www.sheldonbr...k-strategy.html

I wouldn't use the Shledon method of just locking through the rear wheel - it's easily defeated if you know how. And it doesn't look particularly secure, allowing the possibility of coming back to find your rear wheel destroyed by some cretin who thought it would be easy to steal... It's better to lock through both the rear wheel and seat stays - it's more secure and looks it so hopefully would encourage any tea-leaf to try elsewhere.

 

[frank9755]

I wouldn't use the Shledon method of just locking through the rear wheel - it's easily defeated if you know how. And it doesn't look particularly secure, allowing the possibility of coming back to find your rear wheel destroyed by some cretin who thought it would be easy to steal... It's better to lock through both the rear wheel and seat stays - it's more secure and looks it so hopefully would encourage any tea-leaf to try elsewhere.

I generally do that too as there is no reason not to (although to be fair to Sheldon, I've not heard of specific problems from his method), but I am persuaded by the argument that a cheap d-lock + cheap cable are better than an expensive / heavy one of either. Obviously if I sold expensive locks for a living I would argue otherwise!

 

[Davidc]

One area where I don't agree much with Sheldon.

There are times I can't use all the kit but generally:

D lock locking the back wheel to the frame and to something securely grounded - Sheffield stand set in concrete if available. D lock to at least Sold Secure Gold standard.

Cable locking the front wheel to the frame, and using an alarm padlock as the lock, with the lock around a stay as well as the cable. The main aim is to deter casual theft and also set off the alarm lock, so 10mm Halfords or Masterlock cable is good enough, and the alarm lock is well made.

A separate alarm bolted to the bike's seat post.

Alarms do have to be used with some discretion to avoid being a nuisance though. The sign of success for alarms is blood left behind when the would be thieves have hurt themselves running off.

A good D lock weighs a bit, but I'd rather put up with that than have another bike stolen.

 

[TheDoctor]

D lock and insurance. If the thieving scum want your bike badly enough it'll go.
Cable locks are indeed purest pants. I've seen the aftermath of bolt cutters...

 

[Davidc]

D lock and insurance. If the thieving scum want your bike badly enough it'll go.
Cable locks are indeed purest pants. I've seen the aftermath of bolt cutters...

Quite right. Nothing will stop a suitably equipped determined thief. All you can do is make it easier for them to take someone else's bike instead.

The D lock, alarms and other bits can work against casual thieves though. Sadly they'll likely do what they did to one of my bikes a few weeks back and give the wheels a kicking when they can't get the bike

It's important to make sure locks comply with insurance company rules so as to avoid reduced payouts - keep the receipts for your locks.

 

[e-rider]

I generally do that too as there is no reason not to (although to be fair to Sheldon, I've not heard of specific problems from his method), but I am persuaded by the argument that a cheap d-lock + cheap cable are better than an expensive / heavy one of either. Obviously if I sold expensive locks for a living I would argue otherwise!

I also think the Sheldon method is a bad idea.

and "but I am persuaded by the argument that a cheap d-lock + cheap cable are better than an expensive / heavy one of either" is complete nonsense!

 

[frank9755]

I also think the Sheldon method is a bad idea.

and "but I am persuaded by the argument that a cheap d-lock + cheap cable are better than an expensive / heavy one of either" is complete nonsense!

Care to elaborate? Do you speak from relevant experience or are you just so much cleverer than Sheldon was?

 

[TheBoyBilly]

I have a friend who used a D-lock to park his S-Works MTB to a secure pavement sign outside a pub in our town. This pub has a huge window and the bike was parked in plain view, in broad daylight on a busy High Street (road traffic-wise, not pedestrian-wise, it was a Sunday afternoon) In the time it took to buy a pint his bike was pinched and in the back of a van. That's all he saw, the rear doors being closed and a hasty getaway. he didn't have time to catch a glimpse of the number plate and the van was around the corner and away in moments. You can do all you can, but people must've seen this theft in progress from their cars and chose to do nothing. I dare say there were people walking too that did the same.
You just have to be sensible and pick a decent lock for the circumstances and lock the bike leaving very little room for tools to crack the lock. That seems to be the crux - pack that space between the bike and the lock with as much frame/wheels as possible.