1951 Rudge Roadster

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tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
I've been rebuilding my Grandad's old three speed in my spare time over the winter. Here are some pics if anyone is interested.

This is what I started with. Had been stored in damp conditions for a very long time.

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My dog didn't seemed impressed.
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Chromework was in very poor condition. The frame had a lot of surface rust and pitting in places. The front mudguard fell apart but the rear was okay. I re-inforced the weak spots with glassfibre matting underneath. Mechanically, it was okay apart from the Sturmey AG hub which sounded very gritty. This turned out to be rust on the dynamo magnets rather than a problem with the gear part.

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Looks a lot better now I think. A friend has a spare front mudguard for me but he lives a long way away and I haven't got round to picking it up yet.

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Fully enclosed chain case. 'Tis the devil's own invention. I was tempted to bin it and replace with a hockey stick guard.
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Dunlop rubber saddle cleaned up very nicely with some car upholstery cleaner. I wish it was a Brooks but it's comfortable in a springy sort of way. It's like riding to the shop on an old sofa.

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Original pump brought back to life with a new washer took out of a pump from the pound shop which had a similar diameter.

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Dynohub works despite me taking it to pieces. It's pathetic compared to modern lamps. It would be better mounted lower down, I think.

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I decided not to paint the tip of the mudguard in brilliant white as it was originally. I prefer it in black.

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Handlebars cleaned up not so bad after all. Brake levers have very little chrome left. I had to paint the wheel rims in silver as the chrome had completely flaked off them.

Total expenditure was about £35 including new tyres and tubes, paint, brakes and loose bearings in various sizes. It rides nice if you're not in a hurry. Brakes are pitiful, even compared to long reach calipers on chrome rims. There is something majestic about riding down the road due to the high, upright riding position. It's such a quality, well made product, I was putting it back together thinking that it will still be going when I'm dead and buried, all 42lb of it.
 
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tyred

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
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What you find inside an SA three speed hub. Mine had a threaded driver and I wanted to change the sprocket to lower the gearing. I took the splined driver out of an old Raleigh Twenty wheel I have and fitted it to this hub so I could fit a 22t sprocket to bring the gearing down to sensible levels. I originally though the bearings were gone in this hub as it seemed very gritty but it turned out to be rust on armature in the dynamo rather than a problem with the geared side of the hub.
 

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
That's a really nice job! Lovely to see a classic bike restored to its former glory.

Think I'd have done the mudguard ends in white, just for authenticity though.

It reminds me of the Humber bike I had from about age 7, which was like a smaller version of that, complete with rod brakes! There were loads of bikes very much like that one around in the 50s and 60s. They slowly gave way to the ones with straight handlebars and cable operated caliper brakes.
 

Yellow Fang

Legendary Member
Location
Reading
I have a couple of questions:

What's so bad about fully enclosed chaincases? They seem like a good idea to me.

Do you think there might be metal fatigue anywhere, in particular the handlebars? I bent my granny's handlebars as a teenager, straining too hard on the pedals. For years I felt rather guilty about this until I discovered that steel can weaken over time as the grains grow in size.
 
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tyred

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
I'm happy with the way it turned out given how little I spent. The handlebars seem strong enough to me. I know someone who rides a 1931 BSA Sports on a regular basis without problems.

The trouble with the enclosed chain case is that it makes fitting and removing the back wheel a very long drawn out affair. Part of it unscrews, then two plates slide out, you then unscrew the gear change rod, unscrew the axle nuts, unscrew the chain tugs to slide the axle forward, unscrew the bolt holding the chain guard on to the chainstay so you can move it a little, try and get the chain of the sprocket and unhooked around the axle and then slide the wheel out. It also made fitting and jointing a new chain a very tricky business but I guess it lasts a very long time in there. The original chain was in remarkably good condition but it was too short with the jump from 18 to 22 teeth in the sprocket. It needs to be pushed through and engaged on the crank, then turn crank gently to pull it round. A hockey stick chain guard would still keep your trousers clean and avoid all this hassle.
 
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tyred

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
Davidc said:
That's a really nice job! Lovely to see a classic bike restored to its former glory.

Think I'd have done the mudguard ends in white, just for authenticity though.

It reminds me of the Humber bike I had from about age 7, which was like a smaller version of that, complete with rod brakes! There were loads of bikes very much like that one around in the 50s and 60s. They slowly gave way to the ones with straight handlebars and cable operated caliper brakes.

Isn't the Humber the one with the weird fork design?

I've come to the conclusion that cable operated caliper brakes were the single biggest improvement in bicycle design in the 20th C. Rod brakes are heavy, trickier to adjust, make it awkward to take a wheel off and don't appear to work as well as even the most basic caliper system.
 

Yellow Fang

Legendary Member
Location
Reading
tyred said:
Isn't the Humber the one with the weird fork design?

I've come to the conclusion that cable operated caliper brakes were the single biggest improvement in bicycle design in the 20th C. Rod brakes are heavy, trickier to adjust, make it awkward to take a wheel off and don't appear to work as well as even the most basic caliper system.

I expect you're right. However, a friend's just bought a Pashley Princess, and I like it except the cable operated brakes look anachronistic.
 

raindog

er.....
Location
France
Superb tyred - a real labor of love I should think.

Talking of enclosed chain guards, I seem to remember as a kid being told that some systems actually had the chain running through a couple of centimeters of oil under the chainwheel. Have I dreamt this? It would certainly lead to long chain-life.
 
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tyred

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
I think Sunbeam used an oil bath chain guard. I don't think mine would be oil tight but there is a nice knurled brass screw to remove to drip oil on the chain for lubrication purposes.

All I need now is the right gear - plus fours, vee-neck tank top, tie, tweed jacket, flat cap, pipe and an ounce of Player's Navy Cut :birthday:
 
raindog said:
Superb tyred - a real labor of love I should think.

Talking of enclosed chain guards, I seem to remember as a kid being told that some systems actually had the chain running through a couple of centimeters of oil under the chainwheel. Have I dreamt this? It would certainly lead to long chain-life.
Yes, you see 90 year old bikes with chains that are as good as new.

Given up now. Ah, the things we do for "performance".
 

hubgearfreak

Über Member
from a friend of mine.....
remember, that if you need to turn the bike over, to work on it upside down, to not turn it on it's side, but rotate it around the back wheel - like a wheelie, then all the way over. if you get it wrong, you'll drip oil on your tweeds.
 
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