58 tooth chainring?

[Angelfishsolo]

Would I be mad to move from a 53 to a 58 or 60 tooth outer chainring rather than swap the rear from a 14-28 to 11-24 or so. Am after better flat and downhill speed.

 

[Simba]

How fast are you planning to go?

I have a 52/42/31 crankset and 26/13 sprocket and I have gone to 42mph downhill so far and I can go faster if I want.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

How fast are you planning to go?

I have a 52/42/31 crankset and 26/13 sprocket and I have gone to 42mph downhill so far and I can go faster if I want.

I spin out at around 45.7mph and struggle to get above 30mph on the flat.

 

[fossyant]

Not being funny, but anything bigger than 53 isn't necessary. By the time you spin out, you should be aero tucking for more speed. I've done 55 and 60 with a 53 - can't pedal any bike at that speed.

As for 30 on the flat - learn to spin more and get fitter - that's the limiting factor. I don't use more than a 53 x 13 - don't need smaller on the descents.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Not being funny, but anything bigger than 53 isn't necessary. By the time you spin out, you should be aero tucking for more speed. I've done 55 and 60 with a 53 - can't pedal any bike at that speed.

As for 30 on the flat - learn to spin more and get fitter - that's the limiting factor. I don't use more than a 53 x 13 - don't need smaller on the descents.

Not taken as being funny I assure you. Certainly need to learn to aerotuck and will practise spinning. My rational was to take advantage of my strong legs to circumvent bad technique.

 

[fossyant]

Nope - learn good technique. You'll find you will ride faster as it's more efficient. Remember 80-100 rpm is ideal. You'll get fitter as road cycling is very fitness/cardio intensive.

I've just been out for a quick 26 miles on one of the road bikes, and it ended up a training run as the wind was gusty. Found I was rolling at mid to high 80's rpm on 53 x 17 and punching in some good speed at 21-23mph into the wind. That rpm is a little low for me as I usually ride fixed on a smaller gear and spin at 90-110, but the benefits of practising spinning help when faced with some resistance - wind and hills.

Stick with it as it's different to MTB'ing - you'll also benefit on the MTB with fitness !

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Nope - learn good technique. You'll find you will ride faster as it's more efficient. Remember 80-100 rpm is ideal. You'll get fitter as road cycling is very fitness/cardio intensive.

I've just been out for a quick 26 miles on one of the road bikes, and it ended up a training run as the wind was gusty. Found I was rolling at mid to high 80's rpm on 53 x 17 and punching in some good speed at 21-23mph into the wind. That rpm is a little low for me as I usually ride fixed on a smaller gear and spin at 90-110, but the benefits of practising spinning help when faced with some resistance - wind and hills.

Stick with it as it's different to MTB'ing - you'll also benefit on the MTB with fitness !

Cheers for that. I am happy to learn and enjoy. Roll on Sunday

 

[fossyant]

Psst it is Sunday !

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Psst it is Sunday !

Sorry next Sunday

 

[colly]

I spin out at around 45.7mph and struggle to get above 30mph on the flat.

I wish ! I can do it downhill.............with the wind behind me.

 

[gaz]

Getting above 30 on the flat is not easy. It's a lot more about body position than gearing.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Getting above 30 on the flat is not easy. It's a lot more about body position than gearing.

Ok, thanks for that mate.

 

[GrasB]

When you talk about power production even the best grinders are only starting to put out their big wattages properly at around 100-110rpm marker.

This is going to sound odd but big chainrings with 700c wheels are only really useful on rolling to moderately hill terrain. If you're on flat terrain or hilly terrain then large chainrings give gears that are either too high for flat road usage or the speeds are is too high for the rider to add any useful power in a sustained manner. There's a small range in the top end of the rolling to moderately hilly where the descents are short enough to be able to meaningfully use the top end of large chainrings. At 45mph down a 7.5% hill you're looking at putting out around 650-700w by the time you're going down a 10% hill it's into negative numbers. Once you've hit 50mph full on sprint wattages are producing 2 or 3 mph gains!

 

[Angelfishsolo]

When you talk about power production even the best grinders are only starting to put out their big wattages properly at around 100-110rpm marker.

This is going to sound odd but big chainrings with 700c wheels are only really useful on rolling to moderately hill terrain. If you're on flat terrain or hilly terrain then large chainrings give gears that are either too high for flat road usage or the speeds are is too high for the rider to add any useful power in a sustained manner. There's a small range in the top end of the rolling to moderately hilly where the descents are short enough to be able to meaningfully use the top end of large chainrings. At 45mph down a 7.5% hill you're looking at putting out around 650-700w by the time you're going down a 10% hill it's into negative numbers. Once you've hit 50mph full on sprint wattages are producing 2 or 3 mph gains!

That actually makes a lot of sense. Thank you. Would I be better off going for a smaller than 39 inner ring and a 11-24 or such rear instead?

 

[gb155]

I can hit 50-55Mph on a down hill with a 53/11

Happy to sit at 25-30 on the flat and can knock out a 40-45Mph sprint

Wouldn't really want anything bigger (ohhh errrr misses) spin spin spin