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Location
London
Where did I say that?

here at 12.48.
last sentence.
not looking for an argument, least of all with the terrifying ming, but am just a bit confused.
I tried fitting an MTB HT11 triple to a roadbike frame when building a bike for my son. Despite putting loads of spacers on the NDS (less than ideal for BB shell thread engagement) I still couldn't get the chain line to allow the front mech to shift onto the big chainring.
In the end I bit the bullet and bought a bargain road triple with square taper BB from Spa Cycles and it runs like a dream. Square taper is far superior system anyway so don't be tempted to 'upgrade' to HT11.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
i'd change it now.
Before i changed mine i tried all sorts of workarounds, including:
changing down going over roadhumps.
if climbing pendle and it refused to change down, pointing the bike back down the hill when it then always changed - witchcraft.
But a bit of a pain. hills the size of pendle, roadhumps, witches aren't always available.
It IS a big pain if I go to the biggest sprocket first and then try to change rings under load. I have got into the habit now of making a pre-emptive change to the little ring before I need to. Alternatively, if I think I can get up a hill on the middle ring then I stay on that. I can get up a reasonably steep climb on 36/30. If I think that I will need the 28 ring then I go to it BEFORE I get to any steep ramp.

I think the BB has a fair amount of life left in it so I'll stick with it until next spring. The bike will be put into hibernation in November so it only has to last me another 5 or 6 months.

It's all-change in January when I FINALLY get my state pension. I will have money to spend on my bike spares again, rather than having to scrimp and save for every inner tube etc.
 
Location
London
You are confusing me with @I like Skol. Maybe it is the similar avatars confusing you. Suggest you consider the poster’s name not just avatar.
ah, ta - i did check back upthread but still missed that - we can't be having two mings though - the universe isn't big enough, let alone cyclechat - can you two have a merciless fight to the death perhaps?
not aware of any other folk laying claim to essentially the same pic - haven't spotted any other yellow bears trying to trash my reputation for sweet reason and common sense.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
It IS a big pain if I go to the biggest sprocket first and then try to change rings under load. I have got into the habit now of making a pre-emptive change to the little ring before I need to. Alternatively, if I think I can get up a hill on the middle ring then I stay on that. I can get up a reasonably steep climb on 36/30. If I think that I will need the 28 ring then I go to it BEFORE I get to any steep ramp.
Ha, typical - I caught myself out trying to do that this evening...

I thought I was in the middle ring and might be needing the little ring for the steepish ramp ahead so I changed down a ring, hit the ramp, and immediately realised that I had instead just changed from the big ring to the middle ring!

It was too late to engage the little ring so I changed to the 30 sprocket and did the climb in my 36/30 gear.
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
View attachment 595340
Above info from: https://www.renehersecycles.com/bottom-brackets-demystified/

Shimano Hollowtech2 have a chainline of 50mm, it seems that achieving a 43.5 -45mm chainline with a Hollowtech2 BB would be difficult, probably resulting in "Cross Chaining" leading to premature drive chain wear and inefficient gear changes.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/alivio-m4000/FC-M4050.html
your issue with HT 2 is not HT2 per se, its putting a MTB crank onto a road frame. if you got a say 105 HT2 crankset it would work and the chainline would be fine.

As pointed out by a few people though, you are better off sticking with the very flexible Sq Taper system. Most ST cranksets tell you what axle length ST BB you should use with it (and the shell width needs to match your frame BB shell). You have a couple of mm wiggle room normally that front D adjustment can take up to ensure you ca chnage smoothly, but triples are more sensitive to have exactly correct BB axle width
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
Yes, you're correct I am referring to MTB Hollowtech2 BB, I have edited my post.
The thread title does refer to "Chainline with a MTB Hollowtech2 chainset."

Thanks, I am very familiar with square taper design and implementation, but alas not the Hollowtech.
I think you've missed my point.

You said
I'm thinking of putting a MTB Deore triple Chainset and Derailleur on my roadbike, currently the bike has a square taper chainset.
The MTB Deore triple Chainset has hollowtech2, which I know very little about.
The axle length seems to be fixed, so, how do you get the correct chainline?
The axle length is indeed fixed on the Deore chainset (the axle is part of the chainset with Hollowtech, rather than the BB) and its fixed for a MTB frame, as Deore is Shimano MTB series. You wont ever get the correct chainline no matter what washers you put where.

if you really wanted to put a hollowtech2 BB/chainset on your road bike you'd need to used a road series chainset such as 105 or Ultegra hollowtech2 incarnation, where the chainline would workout for a roadbike frame.
 
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