converting hardtail MTB to road steed

[domwhite1]

i.m starting to cycle to work (22 mile round trip on the road). i'll be using an old hardtail mtb i have but want to make it a bit "racier" for the road.

i have a good set of slicks to put on my currents rims. is there anything else that those with a more technical understanding of cycling might suggest to turn my bike into a faster road going commuter machine.

 

[yello]

Have you got rigid forks, i.e. replaced your suspension fork or at least locked it down?

What width tyres have you got? 25, or even 23, for the road is a good move.

 

[BADGER.BRAD]

The slicks will make the world of difference 1.5 or 1.6X26 will do fine. Changing the forks to rigid or locking them out ( or adjusting them upto a really stiff setting) will make the bike handle better. You may also wish to change the gearing slightly as most mountain bikes are fairly low geared. This can be done by either getting a new rear sprocket with the smallest cog/chain wheel having less teeth than you have at present or alternatively changing the front chain wheels to ones with more teeth (changing the rear is normally the cheaper option) Let me know what you have at the moment i.e. how many teeth on the largest front ring and how many on the smallest rear and also how many gears on the rear cog. I have three mountain bike based bikes one for road only, one off road only and one halfway between, The road based one has a combination of 44 front and 11 rear which suits me fine as I live in a very hilly area. The other two Mobs I have are seriously under geared for the road really. This one small thing will make a big difference to your average speeds.

 

[domwhite1]

the bike has got old suspension fork with about 1.5cm of travel due to lack of servicing so are more or less rigid. is it work converting to full rigid?

the rims are 24 (i think).

dom

 

[yello]

is it work converting to full rigid?

I think so, yes. It depends on whether you want to spend on it and, if so, how much. You can get a set of Kona project forks for around £40 new and they'll do the job in all likelihood.

 

[spence]

Agree about changing the gearing but you'll need to do it via the front rings. Most MTB cassettes have 11 teeth as the small cog as standard. I don't know of anything smaller. You can get larger front rings (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5700) as an example of a 48T. There may be larger still. Up may/will have to re-align the front mech.

Something else to do (if done so already) is to use a narrow flat bar and or bar ends. Also maybe alter you position, extend it if currently more upright.

 

[domwhite1]

I think so, yes. It depends on whether you want to spend on it and, if so, how much. You can get a set of Kona project forks for around £40 new and they'll do the job in all likelihood.

that sounds like a feasible option if i can get some rigid forks for around that price

 

[domwhite1]

will check on on number of teeth on cogs. i take it reducing teeth number will increase gearing and allow higher top speeds? i have 8 rings on on the rear cog.

 

[yello]

Be wary of changing chainrings, especially the outer for a larger one. Reason being, the front mech will only be able to span a certain max range, say 12 teeth (e.g. 46 outer - 24 inner = 12). There's also a span limit on inner to middle (or is it middle to outer? or both?? I can't remember!) Check out what the span of your mech is and stay within that range. Chances are it's at its limit already and, without changing mech too, there'll be little you can affordably do.

It's easier, if you really want to change gearing (and I personally don't see it as a deal breaker!) to put a smaller cog on the cassette, or swap the entire cassette.