Dawes Galaxy 27x11/4 or 700c?

[JonoB]

Still working on my 70s Galaxy (a green one) and it's dilemma time again. It still has the original 27x11/4 wheels which (believe it or not) still run smoothly apart from a dent and mild buckle at the rear. Should I try to replace this wheel with another 27 (difficult) or upgrade to 700C? Would the frame then become too big for me (23inch)? Would I have to change the Weinmann brakes? Is it worth the expense just to get a better choice of tyres?

Has anyone done this already........?

 

[beanzontoast]

Yes. I changed to 700c wheels from the original 27 1/4 ones. Didn't fancy having to find the tyres to fit in years to come. My 70's Galaxy is the one with the chromed forks. The brake blocks slid to the bottom of the 'slot' on the original Weinmann brakes seem fine - I got the LBS to do this part of the 'upgrade' as I wanted to be sure all was well. If anything, the ride actually felt a little lower to the ground, but again, it's been ridden by LBS staff who found it fine - one of whom really took a shine to the bike in fact.

 

[Chris James]

700c wheels will be much easier to source bits for. Butyour rear dropouts are probably spaced a bit close for modern wheels (130mm).

Your brakes may work, but if not you can get Alhonga dual pivots (£21 from Spa Cycles)which are designed for these conversions. I haven't used them but in general dual pivots are much better than old side (single pivot) or centre pull in my experience.

Can your existing wheel be trued? And if so, are the rims still safe and not overly worn? If so, I'd just keep running them into the ground.

 

[JonoB]

700c wheels will be much easier to source bits for. Butyour rear dropouts are probably spaced a bit close for modern wheels (130mm).

Can your existing wheel be trued? And if so, are the rims still safe and not overly worn? If so, I'd just keep running them into the ground.

I quite fancy some nice thin 700x23 tyres. I've found some Continentals @27x11/4 but took some finding. My existing Michelin tyres are fat and slow and rotate too close to the frame for my liking. Checking again, it seems that the rear wheel isn't the original supplied I think (different rim pattern) - but is a quality replacement done sometime in the 80's, whereas the front is quite original. Maybe 700 at the back and 27 at the front would make me look like a drag bike :-)

 

[gbb]

I have an old 80s Raleigh i converted in a similar way to what you're trying to achieve Jono.
Several points...
As CJ states, the dropouts may well not suit new wheels, but i cold set mine quite easily (with a strong lump of wood ) It now takes 9 speed wheels.
I find the Alhonga brakes dissapointing. No-where near as good as even the sora brakes on my Raleigh Chimera. Perhaps its the pads themselves....but i also do wonder if the extra deep drop 'loses' some of the braking force, because of their length. I must try some better pads tho...

 

[JonoB]

I have an old 80s Raleigh i converted in a similar way to what you're trying to achieve Jono.
..

I'm not that certain really. I'll know when it's finished. I just love the feel of the bike and wanted to bring it up to date, make it more comfortable and have fun along the way. I have always had a soft spot for these bikes and trawl Ebay endlessly for parts for it. Finding stuff on Ebay has really made me realise how easily it is to become obsessed, though.

 

[beanzontoast]

700c wheels will be much easier to source bits for. Butyour rear dropouts are probably spaced a bit close for modern wheels (130mm).

Your brakes may work, but if not you can get Alhonga dual pivots (£21 from Spa Cycles)which are designed for these conversions. I haven't used them but in general dual pivots are much better than old side (single pivot) or centre pull in my experience.

Can your existing wheel be trued? And if so, are the rims still safe and not overly worn? If so, I'd just keep running them into the ground.

I missed this. With help, I spread mine. Sheldon Brown was my reference, but as he points out, it's a process not without risk. The LBS has since double checked that the symmetry of the frame is correct.

 

[PpPete]

I'm not that certain really. I'll know when it's finished. I just love the feel of the bike and wanted to bring it up to date, make it more comfortable and have fun along the way. I have always had a soft spot for these bikes and trawl Ebay endlessly for parts for it. Finding stuff on Ebay has really made me realise how easily it is to become obsessed, though.

I put Alonghas on when I did my son's. Lot better than the old Weinman centre-pulls. There are some long drop Tektro ones too that will probably do the job too .... but then in the end I kept with the 27 x 1-1/4 because I'd already overspent on the project.
I've just changed another bike from 27x1-1.4 to 700c, and it was just a question of moving the pads down in the slots of the caliper arms. So I've got some spare 27x1-1/4 wheels if you need them.

 

[jimboalee]

Personally, I'd try to keep it original.

Dreaded Halfords have 27 x 1 1/4" Alloy clincher rims ( 'High pressures' in old speak ) in ready built up wheels.
They are not expensive and the rims can be laced onto the original hubs with DB S/S spokes.

Incidentally, the old alloy single skin HP rims - Alesa, Rigida or Milremo - are lighter than a modern double wall rim. I used Rigida 27" HPs for years with 27 x 1 1/4" HP tyres.

There are plenty of 27" tyres out there. Schwalbe make a 32 - 630 (27 x 1 1/4" ) tyre with puncture protect, just right for a Dawes Gal and they are at St John St Cycles.

I used Panaracer Pasela and they rolled fast enough, and are still available.

I could re-build my Pug 531 from 1975 with the Alloy clincher 27" rims and the Schwalbe tyres, and it would look a treat. But 700C are 'Tubs' size and it looks a treat now.

 

[jimboalee]

Oh yes, another point I forgot ( which has been mentioned indirectly ), is that when you change to 700C from 27 x 1 1/4", you lose 1/2" off the B/B height with a 23mm tyre.

My Pug should be 10 3/4", or 10 1/4" and a tad with sprint rims.

The Mafac brake stirups had enough spare slot.

The frame clearances widen by the same distance as the reduction in BB height.

The Pug was designed to take either 27 x 1 1/4" for the low price version, or tubs for the expensive full lightweight. (mine) but I don't like tubs.

The Gal was designed for 27 x 1 1/4" - its a tourer

 

[tyred]

I went with 27 x 1 1/4s on my Carlton and am pleased I did as I think the slightly bigger wheel looks better and would be original spec for a bike from this period.

 

[beanzontoast]

I went with 27 x 1 1/4s on my Carlton and am pleased I did as I think the slightly bigger wheel looks better and would be original spec for a bike from this period.

When I switched to 700c on my old Galaxy as part of the renovation, with the old mudguards still on, there was quite a difference between the look of the 27's and the 700c wheels. Didn't look too good - and as the old guards were a bit ropey anyway, hence the decision to go with the new guards. I bought new ones and fitted them to match the radius of the new wheels evenly. Much smarter and more of a match.

 

[JonoB]

Personally, I'd try to keep it original.

There are plenty of 27" tyres out there. Schwalbe make a 32 - 630 (27 x 1 1/4" ) tyre with puncture protect, just right for a Dawes Gal and they are at St John St Cycles.

I used Panaracer Pasela and they rolled fast enough, and are still available.
.

Yes I've just checked their website and they have a good selection. The bike came with Panaracer Pasela tyres when I got it but they were rotten having spent several years in a shed. I put Michelins on because they were the only ones my LBS had in stock.

I can't decide which ones to go for but I want speed rather than comfort so it is between the Continental Ultra Gator and the Panaracers.

I'm definitely going to keep the 27 wheels (having just priced up some good 700c) - I may be able to squeeze a few tyres past my wife but not complete wheels!