Decisions, decisions...... 1994 Gt Zaskar LE update/upgrade options.

[I like Skol]

I bought my GT Zaskar back in 1994 as a custom build from Leisure Lakes in Bury and have done very little to improve on the original spec since. Built around an XT groupset, components have only been replaced when worn or broken and, while this has slightly watered down the XT flavour, the basic essence has remained. THE biggest change was fitting a suspension fork about 5 years ago which transformed the ride and handling. I realised the build had been flawed from the start with a very low rise rigid fork originally fitted to the suspension geometry frame (the shop specced the fork!!!) which had given twitchy/sharp handling particularly when down hilling.

For the last few years I have been itching to update the bike because I still love the ride and handling even after all this time but have held back as I really want to end up with a disc braked bike if I spend any significant cash. For a long time that was the debate, soldier on with the existing bike or replace with a modern disc braked MTB.

Well, recently I came across this, shown more clearly installed in a frame in this USA ebay listing and a plan has begun to fall into place. I have ordered, but can return, some new 8 speed shifters as the originals are worn beyond repair and I know my rear wheel rim is starting to bulge on the rim wall due to brake wear so now is a good time.

There are 4 options I can see;

1, The cheapskate! Fit the 2012 8 speed Alivio shifters I have ordered and rebuild the back wheel (I can do this myself) with 1 of the 2 matching used but useable mavic SUP rims I have in the shed. Total cost under £40

2, Go for the disc brakes only. Rear disc adaptor bracket, 2011 XT disc brake set (160mm rotors and front fork already has bosses for disc mount) XT M756 6-bolt hubs/DT DB spokes/Mavic XM719 rims and Alivio 8spd shifters. Keep existing, otherwise functional, drivetrain. Cost £430

3, New 9spd drivetrain. SLX 22/32/44 chainset and new XT shifters with brakes as option 2. A mega range 11-34 cassette that will almost certainly see me discard the granny ring (which suits me fine!). Existing front mech should be fine for this but will suck it and see. Rear mech is 9 spd SLX so good-to-go. Cost aprox £625

4, The whole Hog! 10 SPEED! SLX chainset, shifters and cassette. New XT mechs Fr & Rr with brakes as option 2. Possibly go for 180mm rotor on front? Cost with 180mm rotor upgrade nearly £750

I have some concerns/questions.

The big concern is the rear disc brake adaptor. This involves drilling 2 (M6/6mm?) holes in the drop-out bracket of a heat treated aluminium frame and then imposing braking forces on the weakened drop-out that were never allowed for in the original frame design. Should I run away screaming? EDIT: I have had a closer look at the frame and it appears the bracket will use an existing tapped hole intended for mounting pannier racks so only needs one additional hole drilling. Much less worrying.

Will a 10 speed cassette work on the XT M756 rear hub that is listed as 9 speed? Everything I have read suggests that cassette width for 8, 9 and 10 speed is the same so I assume this isn't an issue?

So there it is. Do I soldier on and repair what needs repairing? Update to modern brakes and leave the functional drivetrain alone or get with the 21st century and do a drivetrain upgrade as well. If I do the drivetrain which is best, 9 or 10 speed, and why? I love the bike, its handling, ride and performance, so a new bike just isn't an option.

 

[potsy]

so a new bike just isn't an option.

New bike

 

[I like Skol]

New bike

OK.... another new bike isn't an option

 

[zizou]

£750 is an awful lot to spend on bike that age...if it is a question of liking the geometry then i think you could get a new Zaskar for similar (i'm not sure how much they have changed the geometry in the intervening years though) It wont be XT but you could upgrade to that over time (anyway midrange components of today will be better than top of the range in the 90s)

If you have your heart set on keeping the bike (i am the same with my first hardtail a Marin from about 1999, still love it) though i'd check out the German websites like Rose Bikes, they often have really good deals on shimano. I'd also be tempted to go with SLX over XT, it is cheaper, works just as well and will likely last longer - with the penalty of being a bit heavier.

 

[HovR]

I'd personally go with option 2, except only fitting a front disc, and leaving the rear as V's. V brakes on the rear will suffice, and you won't have to worry about drilling holes in the frame. And obviously it will save you some money!

 

[YahudaMoon]

I don't know nothing about the bike or components really though in my experience with a mid range bikes is just move on. Sell it or scrap it for spares. Unless that is you have some kind of classic bike or it has sentimental value.

If I ever see a bike out, that is it do'nt get stolen, my last one I broke the spider arm so a new chain set was in order

Chain set was £40. It also needed a chain, block, tyres, sps were hammered and the cables were in need of replacement and the rims needed replacing Also the bar tape was held together with insulation tape and the paint work looking shabby, flaked / scratched. Also the headset bearings needed servicing or replacing.
Total cost was coming in at about £300 + if I did the work for a £800 bike when new

I think there is a time when a bike has had its day and a new one is needed though saying that, some bikes are worth spending money on for ever

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Option n. Restore it to original spec using period parts, or turn it into an ss mtb (retaining all the bits so you can put if back again)

Then go ride a modern hardtail mtb an see how much things have moved on since '94.

 

[ushills]

Personnally, i know that frame and it was a brilliant bike. If I were you I would add a front disc to the forks (I assume they are disc ready) and stick with 8 speed as with a triple on the front I would stick with the strength of 8 speed. I have a Ribble R4 from the same period that I fitted Mazzochi Bombers to and it is still a really light hardtail MTB i.e. 9kg's.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

8 speed is better than 9 or 10 speed for most purpose because it is more robust. Is 16/24 speed really not enough? What is the motivation for new drivetrain? You certainly don't need to go 9/10 speed to get a 11-34 cassette. If you want more bling than the Alivio then XTR-m950/951 brifters/shifters come up on ebay quite regularly, a good set will last and essentially free to own/use since it appreciates in value over time.

Avid bb7 is usually considered the best cable disc brake. I'd agree only for the front in this case. There is a weight penalty going for discs. Not only are the brakes/rotors/mounts heavier, equivalent wheels are too.

 

[lukesdad]

option 1.

 

[Zoiders]

Go backwards.

Find some new old stock bits and possibly even some canti's and return it to how it was as new with rigid forks, it's a much cheaper project to persue but the end result will look and probably ride much better than trying to fasten squillions of quids worth of new kit to it.

Retro MTB's bikes are the new Fixed.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Go backwards.

Find some new old stock bits and possibly even some canti's and return it to how it was as new with rigid forks, it's a much cheaper project to persue but the end result will look and probably ride much better than trying to fasten squillions of quids worth of new kit to it.

Retro MTB's bikes are the new Fixed.

I find it more than a little disturbing that Zoiders and I are in complete agreement. (for once)

 

[I like Skol]

Go back in time! LOL The bike was good but wrong when I first got it so I don't want to go back there. The Cannondale P-bone fork was light but soooooo incredibly stiff that it was hard to ride for long lengths of time (but I was harder!!!!) and the low height of the fork created such a steep head angle that the steering was snappy sharp. These two factors together made the ride and handling interesting, intense and full on. Fitting the Marzochi Bomber forks was the big break the frame demanded and the low travel (by todays standards) 80mm suspension fork is what the frame was designed for and really put the handling in the sweetspot of perfection. Luckily the original build included V-brakes so there is no chance of going to Canti's.

Thanks for all the comments, they have helped.

Going back to a retro build or a single speed isn't going to happen. I'm not big on nostalgia and this is an MTB which scales steep mountains then hurtles down again so tell me where a single speed drivetrain fits in to this? I am also not going to keep it as a collecters piece and get a second MTB that actually gets used for real, it's this bike and this bike only.

The reason I considered the drivetrain upgrade was because matching the 32t middle chain ring with a 34t cassette would have matched the 28t granny to 11-28 cassette I am currently running and allow me to ditch the granny ring which is seldom used anyway. I cannot imagine using a 22/34 ratio as this would be far lower (higher?) than I have ever needed or expect to need. I guess this answers the question about the drivetrain, don't fix what ain't broken.

This brings me back to a straight choice between keeping V-brakes or retro fitting discs. I am really keen on discs as this totally eliminates the rim wear problem. I have never liked considering rims as consumables, it just seems such a mechanically inellegant solution when they will obviously wear so quickly with all the mud they are exposed to in this country. I think I am going to have to give this some more thought. The V-brakes have never been anything below excellent and are always up to the job but I do like the disc brakes, Hmmmmmm........ decisions!

 

[YahudaMoon]

So how much more cost / work / time effectiveness ect ...on rim replacement over disc brake replacement parts ?

 

[GrumpyGregry]

retro fitting discs on a frame not designed for them may well condemn your frame to an early grave....