Ever cut a steerer tube?

[swee'pea99]

Just got the forks I bought off ebay, and as expected, they're a bit on the long side. I'm going to have to take an inch or so off the top.

Current game plan is to screw the top nut onto the threaded section, saw off the inch as neatly as I can, then work the nut back up the threaded section, in the hopes that it will force its way thru' any roughness and where necessary re-cut/refine the thread. Does that sound like a good notion? Anyone actually done it before?

Any hints and tips very welcome.

 

[MacB]

Nope, I have 3 sets of forks with uncut steerers and am contemplating tackling it. Weird but I am very tentative about the whole idea, yet it's not complex. Did speak to my LBS, though maybe they used some special pipecutting tool, but no. For a threadless his method would be to clamp two old stems on, either side of cut line and use them as a guide for the hacksaw. I assume he could use two nuts for threaded forks. I can do that easily enough myself but I may see if a metalworker friend has a fancy machine that can make a better job of it.

Keep us posted on what you do

 

[PatrickPending]

done 3 now, including one carbon, bought one of these :-

http://www.chainreac...x?ModelID=10222

fits nicely in a vice and has more than paid for itself now


what you suggest sounds good though - give it a go!
use a nice sharp hacksaw, measure and measure again so you cut in the right place and its quite straightforward.

oh i'd see if you had a second nut so you could use the two to make a guide - even better two old steel nuts - in case you scratch them

 

[02GF74]

done at least 3, carbon, steel for sure, maybe an aluminium alloy one too.

I recommend using a pipe cutter like this puppy:

It will easily do aluminium alloy and steel - you are not supposed to use it on steel but if you go slowly enough with a bit of oil for lubrication, it will cut it - you may damage the cutting wheel but they are pennies to replace.

On carbon (and in steel if you want to save the cutting wheel) you would maybe go in for 0.5 mm or less just to mark the cutting line - then use a fine blade hacksaw - the saw will tend to follow the line.

The tool will give you perfect 90 degree cut which is neat but that isn't necessary providing you are within 1 or 2 mm which is easily achieveable with a hacksaw.

Measure and measure again and then MEASUREagain - coz once done, you can't go back.

Fit a couple of spacers so that when you measure, your cut steerer is very likely to be more than what it needs to be for when fitted with no spacers.

Note that carbon dust is nasty so make sure you don't breathe that in plus be gentle as it easy to get it to fray.

Fit the star fangled nut only to steel and alloy steeres, carbon fibre needs to have an expanding bung type. If yer need more info, then ask.

 

[Bodhbh]

You can buy a tool to let you do a square cut with a hacksaw, I think they're about 20quid (sorry can't remember the name of it or who supplied).

Although in the end, I took a set of forks and a seat post that both needed cutting down to the local Halfords, so that might be an option - they charged 2 quid each.

 

[swee'pea99]

Thanks all. These are old steel ones, so I think the ol' hacksaw's probably fine for the job. New blade tho' - good idea. And I'll see if I can get a couple of nuts to act as guides - that's a smart idea.

 

[Chrisz]

Measure twice, cut once

I use an old nut as a guide and a marker pen to draw a level line around the tube. Take it easy and keep turning the steerer to check you're still in line. Finish off with a file to remove rough bits/burrs and the job's a good un

 

[02GF74]

You can buy a tool to let you do a square cut with a hacksaw, I think they're about 20quid (sorry can't remember the name of it or who supplied).

could it be mitre saw that you refer to?

you can them with blades for cutting steel but then unless they are super duper acurate, the cut is still at a slight angle...... or is ti just my saw???

 

[jimboalee]

Once you've measured twice and got the place to cut, wrap a piece of tape round so the edge of the tape is the marker and square to the tube. Use this as a guide.

Try to get the finest hacksaw blade you can. There are 36 tpi around but 32 tpi are more available. It might have to be a junior hacksaw.
Cut very gently. Take your time and keep the blade along the tape guide.

De-burr with emery cloth in a rubber cup. Half a tennis ball.

 

[e-rider]

OMG - pipe cutters; saws!!!

It's an easy task but buy the correct tool FFS. Park tools £30 plus good hacksaw with new fine tooth blade

my tip is to add 1-2mm on becasue after cutting and filing it'll be just right

 

[fossyant]

I do what Jimbo says also.................. - measure....measure..............mark and cut (with a sharp blade)

 

[TheDoctor]

And don't use a pipe cutter on carbon - the carbon will delaminate. Composites don't take kindly to high point loading. Use a saw, light pressure, and a new blade if possible. Cut 1/4 way through, turn 90 degrees, cut 1/4 way through again, and so on. That should stop the carbon fraying too much.

 

[marmalade400]

The simplest and cheapest way is to use a junior hacksaw with a jubilee clip round the steerer to mark the cut and guide the saw. Takes a couple of minutes and by using only light pressure on the saw you won't mess up the threads at all.

 

[youngoldbloke]

Ignore all the misguided advice above - it is impossible to cut steel forks unless you purchase one of these - and

complete the appropriate training course before using it, of course!

 

[youngoldbloke]

Toolstation sell Tungsten Carbide hacksaw blades suitable for cutting carbon steerer tubes (and seatposts etc). Better than metal cutting blades, but unless you have a lot to do probably not essential. TC blade