Problem with axle width on new wheel

[rh100]

Have replaced the wheels on a Trek Hybrid with alluminium frame

when fitting the back wheel, the axle doesn't seem wide enough to sit on the dropouts on either side. The old wheel seemed to be ok - do axle's come in different widths? I have attached a pic to show the extent of the problem. I would guess between 5 - 10 mm.

I have been able to fit the wheel by closing the two sides of the frame together and then locking the QR down to hold it in place. However - it is an alluminium frame and I am concerned this will weaken the frame in any way, or is this normal when putting different wheels on?

I can only assume that the axle is of different lengths between the old and new wheels but can't see any way of easily measuring them.

The wheel is an Omega Mach1 622x13 - the old one was 622x16 - I think this is the same as 700c?

I did not think that narrower rims would affect the axle width? Also, do you think that my current tyres - 700 x 35 bontrager's are ok on this narrower rim? I fitted them ok - just slightly more ballooned than they were.

Jeez - why is everything so complicated?

EDIT: PS - The front wheel seemed to fit in ok without any problem

 

[MichaelM]

I can't see much from your pic, but it sounds as thugh your old wheel (hence your frame) is spaced at 135mm (mtb standard) and your new wheel is 130mm (roadstandard).

Also, I think the Omega mach 1 is the rim, what are the hubs?

 

[rh100]

Hi Michael

The hub is a Shimano FH-2200, have just checked the specs and indeed it is 130mm. So it seems that my frame has a different space - of 135mm?

I guess these should be sent back and changed rather than forcing them on? I've just took the wheel back off and the frame has sprung back so hopefully no damage done.

 

[rh100]

Searching the web - it seems that the axle can be converted but it does something to the wheel and needs to re-trued or something. Will get them changed. What a bummer.

Put the old cruddy ones back on - decided to try regreasing the bearings on the front to make it more rideable till I get new wheels, There is definitely a lot of pitting in the cone surface - more like a gouge. Couldn't quite see the surface of the hub but guess that had it too. Cleaned up the old grease and the existing bearings and put new grease in and adjusted the cones according to the haynes book - seems better but you can feel the rough surface when spinning the wheel. Couldn't do the back one as I dont have a tool for the freewheel block (only have a cassette tool). At least I've learnt something anyway - however frustrating.

 

[MichaelM]

If you take the cassette off the rear, yuo should be able to get at the nuts /cones on the rear - though you may need cone spanners. Failing that, get some new ones and run the old ones into the ground!

 

[rh100]

New wheels ordered with the correct axle width this time, thanks for the info as it doesn't seem readily obvious when shopping for new wheels. I wonder how many people buy 130mm wheels and just force the frame to fit?

Re: the bearings on the back - it's the old wheel which has a screw on hub block rather than a cassette with lockring - have been unable to get it off to get at the cones. I've got the cone spanners which allowed me to do the front wheel.

When the new wheels turn up I will keep these old ones as spares - I'll get the right tool to remove the freewheel and practice servicing the hubs etc on them (front done already but would like more practice). I have a tool for the new cassette with lockring which I bought for the new wheelset - but I think it's a different one to the screw on freewheel type.

So it's the wheels - cassette - brakes and gear cables to do at the moment. Next up - is replacing a chain

 

[bikedoc]

Hi,
It seems to me that this wheel is definitely a road bike wheel and a bit out of place on a hybrid. However you can always change the QR axles over between the two wheels, the threads will almost certainly be the same, just check the cone diameter to see they will fit in the ball race and in the dustseals. Switch over the old axle spacers and the over locknut dimension will probably end up around 135 mm. You can always add in or remove slim 10mm ID washers to get this correct ( more important on a aluminium alloy frame than a steel which will tolerate a few mm discrepancy) or cut down the spacer with a hacksaw to the required length. Never throw washers or spacers away they may come in handy next time! 13 mm is too narrow strictly speaking for a 35 mm tyre but if you are careful and keep an eye on the sidewall you may be OK. The other thing to watch is the height at which the brake block ( I am assuming V brakes) will strike the rim - it should be as high as possible without touching the tyre V brake blocks move in a tight arc they can slip past the lower edge of the rim if not correctly positioned or if they are allowed to wear excessively.
All that said, the beauty of bikes for me is that they are so adaptable and customisable.
Best wishes,
Kevin

 

[Rohloff_Brompton_Rider]

i wouldn't change the cassette and use the existing chain, that would be asking for premature wear on the cassette and that's only if you don't have skipping / slipping problems from the off. buy a new chain and cassette. maybe wise changing the front chainring as well. seems expensive i know, but read sheldons page as he explains it better than most.

www.sheldonbrown.com

 

[bikedoc]

Hi again,
To test the chain buy a good quality steel rule and measure 12 inches worth of chain. It is exactly 1/2" between pins on a new chain.
If the chain is stretched so that 24 pin to pin centres now measure 12 1/16 then you might be able to get away with a new chain on the old cassette . More than 1/16 stretch and the chain will probably jump on the smaller sprockets if you install a new chain. However this is complicated by the demands of indexing - if you have been fond of skewing the chain across the block from extreme chainwheel positions the lateral rigidity of the chain will have reduced as well so index gear shifting may be poor.
Good luck
Kevin

 

[Crankarm]

Buy a proper chain wear indicator tool such as the Park one from CRC so much easier than faffing about with a tape measure. Sorry, but it is.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5784

Road bike OLN 130mm
MTB OLN 135mm.

Putting a road bike hub 130mm into a MTB frame with 135mm OLN betweeen drop outs would mean the narrower axle should be spaced out either side if not yet built, or 5mm spacer on non drive side and dish checked for 135 OLN rear drop outs.

 

[rh100]

The new cassette was only a HG30 £15 jobbie - was bought to go on the new wheel as at the time of purchase I didn't realise about screw on freewheels and cassette freehubs.

Anyway - the wheels have been sent back and new ones purchased from elsewhere which i have confirmed have the 135mm axle.

I did think of trying to convert it but felt I was buying into more trouble than it was worth.

I've also ordered a new SRAM chain and chain tool - getting expensive this.

 

[bikedoc]

Hi Crankarm,
I actually recommend a 'good quality steel engineers rule ' not a tape measure. This means that you can measure the change in 12" worth of chain, by doing this you will pick up small changes, I think it is more accurate than using a small 'chain wear tool' as marketed by Park etc. You can also use it for measuring spokes, checking for concavity in the rim braking surface and stirring your tea.
Best wishes,

 

[rh100]

Got the new wheels on over the weekend and went for a test ride - some definite dodgy noise and vibration coming up through the pedals along with sloppy shifting.

Changed the chain last night for an SRAM powerlink one - easy when you know how. Much better - no noise and the shifting is much better - just need to change the gear cable.

Noticed the cassete had a slight wobble to it - stripped it down and refitted it - much better except now the sixth cog (6 and 7 cogs are loose to the rest of the cassette) has a very slight wobble, possible a dodgy cog - have stripped and cleaned and retightened so no debris stuck in between.

 

[bikedoc]

Hi,
Is the cassette a 7 speed and the freehub for 7/8, if so a 1 mm spacer behind the cog will fix it.
Best wishes

 

[rh100]

Yes - its a 7 speed cog and an 8 speed hub - there is a spacer fitted between the largest cog and the spokes already.

It seems to lock down securely - although the hub body, or the part the cassette slots onto - has a very slight amont of up and down play, is this normal? However - the other cogs now seem to spin ok just number 6 seems to have this bit of side to side motion when spinning.

edit - when I said 6 and 7 are loose - I meant the way it is supplied - the other cogs are riveted together. The lock ring clamps them all together ok.