I've just bought a new chain to replace the one on my MTB. It is a 8 speed triple. Even though it is an 8 speed chain with 114 links, I'll still need to measure the chain and shorten it as required won't I? So basically put it on the largest sprocket and largest chain ring and adjust the size accordingly? There is a section on changing chains in my Haynes manual I'd just like to sanity check my thoughts before I put them into action when I get home.
Replacing Chains
- Thread starter Plax
- Start date
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2Loose
Guru
- Location
- Loughborough, Leicestershire.
Get the old chain and hang it on a high nail.
Hang new chain beside it and using the old one as a template, remove surplus links from the new chain.
The old chain won't have stretched a complete link distance, so it works every time.
Hang new chain beside it and using the old one as a template, remove surplus links from the new chain.
The old chain won't have stretched a complete link distance, so it works every time.
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
Assuming that your old chain was tailored to the optimum length when it was originally installed....
Davidc
Guru
- Location
- Somerset UK
If the new chain joins up using a power link or similar make sure you take one out for that.
I forgot last week.
Good thing too - I needed a new cassette and the spare had a 32 large sprocket, the old one had a 30.
I forgot last week.
Good thing too - I needed a new cassette and the spare had a 32 large sprocket, the old one had a 30.
corshamjim
New Member
- Location
- Corsham
Sure?
The chain on my s/h Dahon D7 was a link or two longer over its length than the equivalent links on the new chain.Still I simply replaced with same number of links rather than same length. Strangely it doesn't shift so well now - I think it's because the sticky layer of old oil and grit on the old chain helped to drag it to the next sprocket. Doubtless the sprockets are a bit worn too tho'.
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Assuming the old chain was the right length or you haven't changed cassette size; I find its easiest just to lay the old chain along side the new chain and then you can quickly eye up the number of links without actually having to count. When I have changed my cassette size or I just wanted to confirm the chain is the right length, I've used the technique on the bicycle tutor site (I think he borrowed it from the late, great Sheldon).
summerdays
Cycling in the sun
- Location
- Bristol
I usually lay it out, count several times etc before deciding how long. However don't make the mistake I made the first time and end up trying to join Male:Male 
(or what ever you call it) - ended up having to take off an extra half link (however it actually ran better after that! 
).
(or what ever you call it) - ended up having to take off an extra half link (however it actually ran better after that! ).Just watched the Bike Tutor video and looks just like what I had in mind. I'm off out for a jolly in the garden now to clean the mud off my bike and change the chain. I'm a bit pissed it's as windy as f*ck out though even if it is nice and sunny! My test ride isn't going to be as enjoyable as I would like as I anticipate the delights of the inevitable headwinds.
2Loose
Guru
- Location
- Loughborough, Leicestershire.
Sure?
With an inch per whole link, if your chain had lengthened 2 whole links I am really surprised your chain stayed on the sprockets at all!
Sheldon suggests that you would be best replacing all of the cogs (chainring and cassette) at 1/8th inch stretch over 12 links, which would equate to just over a whole link on my whole chain.
Perhaps a little more mechanical sympathy is in order!
2Loose
Guru
- Location
- Loughborough, Leicestershire.
Assuming that, certainly, +1
chugsy
Senior Member
- Location
- Nottingham
I gave up after this happened.... rode to the lbs with a pin partially out and got them to replace the chain for a fiver. Although the chain wasn't excessively stretched and it all worked like a dream I thought I'd be proactive for once - now the drivetrain is noisy as f*** . Think next time I'll run the whole lot into the ground and replace the lot (it's low end stuff anyway)
yes... I know it's cheap and nasty but I've used it many times with success - it's been in my saddlebag for many years just in case I or my pals have chain breaks in the wilderness.
Davidc
Guru
- Location
- Somerset UK
You just don't know your own strength chugsy.
All my parts are fairly low end, but I still recon its economical to change the chain at just past 75% wear and get much more life from the cassette and chainrings.
All my parts are fairly low end, but I still recon its economical to change the chain at just past 75% wear and get much more life from the cassette and chainrings.
chugsy
Senior Member
- Location
- Nottingham
If only I had any strength... I do resemble a spud with wet noodles for arms. The original chain was at 75% - I replaced the shimano chain for a SRAM with powerlink and my research led me to believe it is compatible. LBS reckon it will take time to bed in... time will tell but I've just taken ownership of my latest C2W steed so the hybrid is being relegated to wet weather commuting for the mo
