Thanks chaps
I've just looked at my sprint, there was way too many revs to maintain@ 143rpm, need to choose a couple of higher cogs
Just for more encouragement, I've received this picture of @Whorty practising his lead out in our updated green kit.
I've just looked at my sprint, there was way too many revs to maintain@ 143rpm
I read one good Adam Hansen's interview which was in a Finnish bicycle magazine. Hansen use to test his mechanics patient because he did all the adjustments against all well known traditions. Cleats he set middle of a shoe sole, crank was very long, handle bar was unusual narrower. Everything are based on his own measurements.
I've only done a few short rides but putting longer spindles and moving the 0 degree float cleats further towards the middle of the shoe seems way more comfortable for such a little change.. I think the spindle is only 15mm wider.
Well at least there’d be somewhere to park your bike at the end of the raceJust for more encouragement, I've received this picture of @Whorty practising his lead out in our updated green kit.
When he's leading you out, I'm guessing the view you will have will encourage you to launch an early and devastating attack.
View attachment 505778
Now all you’ve got to do is try and produce that power at the end of a long race! Simple
Sometimes it take some time and it's good to spend some time to find a best adjustment. I use 0° float cleat as well and i have adjust small angle that my heel point just barely to inwards. Cleat is not fully back, i have try to find a spot where ball of my foot is close to center of pedal axle.
Fitted new shifters, gear cables, front and rear mechs, cranks and front chainrings to the bike I use on the turbo this weekend. I have a bottom bracket too but I will get the local bike shop to do that - it'll be cheaper to pay them than for me to buy the tool which I will so rarely use (it's press fit).
I don't think it's going to make me any faster but its damn satisfying and, much to my relief it now shifts like a dream compared to how it was, rather than me having cocked it all up and made things worse
Oh yeah and I replaced the bar tape which was basically in tatters so that feels luxurious too
A threaded rod, some big washers and nuts, a few quid
Bit of both. Everything on the bike is about 6 years old and has had a fair bit of use - first as my only road bike, then as road and turbo bike and for the last couple of years just the turbo bike. Basic things like jockey wheels definitely needed replacing and everything else was looking quite worn - and the rear shifter was annoyingly not quite working properly (whatever I did!). There was a very good deal on the full new Tiagra groupset so I thought I'd take the opportunity to freshen up the lot and change the cables. Tiagra is fine because I only had 10spd very old 105 on there anyway, and the modern Tiagra is still a step up from this - 10spd is fine for Zwift and weight doesn't matter so I couldn't see any point in getting anything more expensive/lighter.
The bike shop will do it while I wait for a tenner. I like to be able to do as much as possible myself, but this is one area where there's the most chance of cock up and it's so rare I will need to change a BB I'm happy to delegate this particular job!
