BB30 Bearings/Lifespan? Not Good IME!

[smokeysmoo]

Has anyone else had issues with BB30 bearings? Mine on the CAAD creaked very soon after I got it, and I ended up stripping the bottom end and re-greasing which fixed it. Apprently a lot of BB30 equipped bikes ship with very little grease for some reason.

Then it was creaking again last night so I stripped it and found one knackered bearing, but it has also fecked up the machined surface on the crank axle

I've started warranty discussions as the mileage is very low, and while I fully appreciate bearings are a wear item I've never had any issues with years of Hollowtech II.

If I get no joy I'll be buying a HT crank and adapter me thinks.
Just curious if any other CC'er have had any such issues.

 

[Herzog]

Has anyone else had issues with BB30 bearings? Mine on the CAAD creaked very soon after I got it, and I ended up stripping the bottom end and re-greasing which fixed it. Apprently a lot of BB30 equipped bikes ship with very little grease for some reason.

Then it was creaking again last night so I stripped it and found one knackered bearing, but it has also fecked up the machined surface on the crank axle

I've started warranty discussions as the mileage is very low, and while I fully appreciate bearings are a wear item I've never had any issues with years of Hollowtech II.

If I get no joy I'll be buying a HT crank and adapter me thinks.
Just curious if any other CC'er have had any such issues.

No issues with my SRAM ones on my Bianchi (around 3k Km - in that region).I stripped and re-greased once during a standard service, that's all. However, I insatlled these so I know they were fitted correctly and I've heard other people having issues with factory fitted bearings.

What did the bearing look like (i.e., how was it damaged). The noise issue aside, how did the cranks spin...freely? When you reinstalled after cleaning the first time, did you use the proper Brushings?

 

[billy1561]

Smokeysmoo i can pass on what i have experienced.
Last year i bought a Cannondale synapse and on the first ride the BB failed. Upon inspection at the LBS the bearings had collapsed and in fact the frame was damaged beyond repair. Bike was replaced without fuss only for the same to happen with the replacement. On this occasion i knew the symptoms ( and wasn't 40+miles from home!) and took it straight back. The BB was sent back to cannondale. It turns out Cannondale could not replace the bearings due to them receiving a faulty batch.
As i had the problem twice within weeks the shop replaced the BBwith a sram under goodwill. Cannondales reaction was they don't warranty bearings as once they leave the shop 'anything can happen'. Obviously my LBS completely sympathised with my plight and replaced immediately.
The bottom line is the bad batch of BB's should have worked their way out of the system now (last July was my problem) but there may be a rogue out there somewheres... The sram replacement is beautifully smooth imo.
If i can help anymore just shout

 

[fossyant]

Eee, bring back good old Square Taper cartridge units (the dogs danglies after the older cup types).

 

[smokeysmoo]

What did the bearing look like (i.e., how was it damaged). The noise issue aside, how did the cranks spin...freely? When you reinstalled after cleaning the first time, did you use the proper Brushings?

I haven't actually removed the bearing yet becasue, 1). I don't have the tool yet, (I know I could use a simple drift but), 2). I'm waiting for a response about warranty.
With the cranks removed you can just feel the bearing is very grumbly.
The cranks were spinning freely TBH. When I reinstalled the first time it had literally done about 150 miles, so I just reinstalled everything the wya they came off.

 

[dan_bo]

They're not that good for bikes that get used every day. I look after the one on my MTB by taking the seatpost out and leaving the bike upside down for an hour or two after a wet ride. I wouldn't ahve one on my day to day bike.

 

[GrasB]

I'm getting about 8-10k miles out of a SRAM BB30 bottom bracket. I use my bikes in all kinds of weather & just clean them as they get dirty.

 

[waggoner]

My BB330 on my Cannondale synapse started clicking on the second day i had it,,got quite loud too. Contacted the shop where it came from,and they said to remove the crank and grease it. I done that and had one of the bearings come out with the crank,,so i eased it off, lightly greased it and gently tapped it back onto the frame then torqued it all up to the correct pressure. I've had no problems since,,about 850 miles now. I did take it apart the other week to give everything a good clean and regrease and it was ok then,,all the bearings ok and seated tightly.
One other thing i had was a lot of swarf inside the frame which came out when i took the crank out first time, obviously from when they made the frame,,nothing to do with the crank..luckly!!

It is a bit worrying because there seems to be quite a few problems with the BB30.

Any chance of a link to the HT Crank and adapter,,for future reference!

Good luck with the Warrenty claim.

 

[Herzog]

I haven't actually removed the bearing yet becasue, 1). I don't have the tool yet, (I know I could use a simple drift but), 2). I'm waiting for a response about warranty.
With the cranks removed you can just feel the bearing is very grumbly.
The cranks were spinning freely TBH. When I reinstalled the first time it had literally done about 150 miles, so I just reinstalled everything the wya they came off.

Bad luck then, hope it works out with the warranty claim.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Any chance of a link to the HT Crank and adapter,,for future reference!

You can use a HT chainset with these, http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels-manu...turing_BB30_to_24mm_Crank_Spindle_Shims-Black
and leave the BB30 bearings in place.

Or you can fit one of these, http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/sram-bb30-to-item144060.html#info which then enables you to screw in the HT bearing cups.

They do say though that once you fit the second adapter you should never attempt to remove it, especially on a cf frame.

 

[waggoner]

Thanks Smokeysmoo for the links. That's interesting to know about the adapters.

Good luck again with warranty.

 

[Herzog]

Thanks Smokeysmoo for the links. That's interesting to know about the adapters.

Good luck again with warranty.

I use the Wheels Manufactoring ones (the first link in Smokeysmoo's post) and they're great. Easy to remove when cleaning and seem to function perfectly.

 

[PpPete]

Eee, bring back good old Square Taper cartridge units (the dogs danglies after the older cup types).

I have one HT2 equipped bike - only because I got an amazingly good price on the crankset. My best bike is square taper. Old loose ball square taper were a bit of a faff, but sealed units like the UN54 just seem to go on forever. On the basis of the above I'm unlikely to ever want a BB30 equipped bike.

 

[fossyant]

I have one HT2 equipped bike - only because I got an amazingly good price on the crankset. My best bike is square taper. Old loose ball square taper were a bit of a faff, but sealed units like the UN54 just seem to go on forever. On the basis of the above I'm unlikely to ever want a BB30 equipped bike.

All mine are square taper. The UN54 has been on my fixed for the last 3 years, no maintenance, out in all weathers. The UN54 on my MTB has had 3 BB's in the last few years - end up with play in them - no idea why, just eats them.

Best bike has a Dura Ace/XTR Cartridge and has been in there at least 15 years - as soon as shimano released them, I removed the DA loose ball type and replaced, just because it was fit and forget. I remember it being about £70 all those years ago. My trianing bike has an Ultegra cartridge BB - and that's slightly older than the DA one.

These external bearings don't last as long at all, but they aren't expensive.

 

[smokeysmoo]

OK, the LBS have come back to me initially saying that they will gladly replace the bearings FOC which is some good news. As for the machined face on the crank axle they quote, "It is normal to see some marks were the bearing has contacted the axle"

Now I'm not an engineer, but I'd appreciate any comments from those who maybe qualified to do so. Have a look at the pic below and tell me if you think the marks on the machined face are acceptable, they are barely 'feelable' when you run a fingernail across them, but I just worry with it being machined, obviously this is the face that runs against the bearing.

FWIW the machined face on the drive side is immaculate, it's only the non-drive side, (with the failed bearing) that is marked.