chriswoody
Legendary Member
- Location
- Northern Germany
"The Mountains are calling and I must go"
(John Muir)
DAY ONE.
I have always loved to travel and journey amongst the hills and mountains, I also lived in the Lake District for many years before moving to Northern Germany. Life on the Northern German plain is generally fine, but the mountains are always calling me so at the beginning of July, this year, I decided to take my new mountain bike and head to the high passes and valleys of the Swiss Alps for an adventure.
The route I had chosen was in the far Eastern side of Switzerland, bordering with Italy and would involve a lot of ascent and descent in a large figure of eight pattern. Whether I would have the strength to complete it was a question mark alongside the unsettled weather forecast. My time as always was limited though and I would just have to head down and see what transpires.
I chose to start in the town of Scuol at an altitude of 1290m, whilst I could comfortably speak in German with everyone I met, the official language here is Romansch and linked closely to Italian. The German spoken here is with a strong Italian accent and whilst tricky to understand, I could still get by. The first morning starts cool and cloudy and the route lets me know immediately what I'm in for with a steep 12% climb right from the off. Hairpin bends wind upwards for a couple of kilometers leading to a break in the mountain skyline.
As tarmac gives way to gravel the gradient eases and we make our way through a valley, shadowing a small river. This is actually a road leading upwards towards the village of S-Charl and I'm occasionally passed by the odd car and the regular bus that goes up this way. Whilst the air temperature is quite pleasant and a little cool, the sun is intense on its brief excursions out from behind the high tufts of Cumulus cloud. It's been hard to get into any kind of rhythm with the immediate uphill nature of the route, but slowly I'm settling in.
After 12 km the village of S-Charl at 1800m, appears and I ride into the centre, stopping at the village fountain to replenish my water supplies and take a breather. Aside from one year round resident, the village is only occupied during the summer months. It's an old mining town from the middle ages and today is peaceful and quiet. I go for a short wander amongst the houses then get back on the bike.
From here a smaller gravel trail leads me onwards and higher through open pastures ringing with the sound of the cowbells. Ahead on the slopes of a hill I can see the ancient forest of God da Tamangur, the highest continuous Swiss Stone Pine forest. The Stone Pine is the only pine species with five needles and examples here have been known to live for 700 years. It's certainly an impressive landscape with stunning views around every corner.
I'm still heading uphill, but the gradient has eased and for a short while I'm heading down on some lovely gravel single track. I'm well over 2000m high now and close to my highest point of the day. A small farm at the head of the gravel trail has a small cafe offering coffee and there are a few walkers partaking. I decide to join them and sit in contentment looking out over the mountainous landscape enjoying a lovely coffee.
From here the trail turns to narrow single track as the gradient eases considerable and the last metres to the col are negotiated, finally culminating at a sign proclaiming I've reached the Pass de Costainas at 2251m high. A well deserved break later, I point the bike South and start to roll forward and towards the descent.
I love these summit moments when after hours of uphill toil you finally get to see the view out into the neighbouring valleys and this one didn't disappoint.
From here a fine gravel road descends at breakneck speed at first before the gradient eased and changed from gravel to single track then tarmac roads. I emerge onto the valley bottom at the base of the Fuorn Pass, several road cycles fly pass and I'm intrigued to see a sign pointing to the Stelvio pass just over the border in Italy. The Stelvio is not my destination though and instead a few gentle gravel roads lead me onwards to the village of Santa Maria Val Mustair. Home apparently to the world's smallest whisky bar, sadly shut on the day I was there, so I was unable to check the validity of that claim.
At the edge of the village lies an idyllic and laid back campsite on the edge of the forest where I can buy an ice cold beer to go with my meal and celebrate my ride today.
Overall today was 39.59 kilometres with 1378 metres of Climbing.
(John Muir)
DAY ONE.
I have always loved to travel and journey amongst the hills and mountains, I also lived in the Lake District for many years before moving to Northern Germany. Life on the Northern German plain is generally fine, but the mountains are always calling me so at the beginning of July, this year, I decided to take my new mountain bike and head to the high passes and valleys of the Swiss Alps for an adventure.
The route I had chosen was in the far Eastern side of Switzerland, bordering with Italy and would involve a lot of ascent and descent in a large figure of eight pattern. Whether I would have the strength to complete it was a question mark alongside the unsettled weather forecast. My time as always was limited though and I would just have to head down and see what transpires.
I chose to start in the town of Scuol at an altitude of 1290m, whilst I could comfortably speak in German with everyone I met, the official language here is Romansch and linked closely to Italian. The German spoken here is with a strong Italian accent and whilst tricky to understand, I could still get by. The first morning starts cool and cloudy and the route lets me know immediately what I'm in for with a steep 12% climb right from the off. Hairpin bends wind upwards for a couple of kilometers leading to a break in the mountain skyline.
As tarmac gives way to gravel the gradient eases and we make our way through a valley, shadowing a small river. This is actually a road leading upwards towards the village of S-Charl and I'm occasionally passed by the odd car and the regular bus that goes up this way. Whilst the air temperature is quite pleasant and a little cool, the sun is intense on its brief excursions out from behind the high tufts of Cumulus cloud. It's been hard to get into any kind of rhythm with the immediate uphill nature of the route, but slowly I'm settling in.
After 12 km the village of S-Charl at 1800m, appears and I ride into the centre, stopping at the village fountain to replenish my water supplies and take a breather. Aside from one year round resident, the village is only occupied during the summer months. It's an old mining town from the middle ages and today is peaceful and quiet. I go for a short wander amongst the houses then get back on the bike.
From here a smaller gravel trail leads me onwards and higher through open pastures ringing with the sound of the cowbells. Ahead on the slopes of a hill I can see the ancient forest of God da Tamangur, the highest continuous Swiss Stone Pine forest. The Stone Pine is the only pine species with five needles and examples here have been known to live for 700 years. It's certainly an impressive landscape with stunning views around every corner.
I'm still heading uphill, but the gradient has eased and for a short while I'm heading down on some lovely gravel single track. I'm well over 2000m high now and close to my highest point of the day. A small farm at the head of the gravel trail has a small cafe offering coffee and there are a few walkers partaking. I decide to join them and sit in contentment looking out over the mountainous landscape enjoying a lovely coffee.
From here the trail turns to narrow single track as the gradient eases considerable and the last metres to the col are negotiated, finally culminating at a sign proclaiming I've reached the Pass de Costainas at 2251m high. A well deserved break later, I point the bike South and start to roll forward and towards the descent.
I love these summit moments when after hours of uphill toil you finally get to see the view out into the neighbouring valleys and this one didn't disappoint.
From here a fine gravel road descends at breakneck speed at first before the gradient eased and changed from gravel to single track then tarmac roads. I emerge onto the valley bottom at the base of the Fuorn Pass, several road cycles fly pass and I'm intrigued to see a sign pointing to the Stelvio pass just over the border in Italy. The Stelvio is not my destination though and instead a few gentle gravel roads lead me onwards to the village of Santa Maria Val Mustair. Home apparently to the world's smallest whisky bar, sadly shut on the day I was there, so I was unable to check the validity of that claim.
At the edge of the village lies an idyllic and laid back campsite on the edge of the forest where I can buy an ice cold beer to go with my meal and celebrate my ride today.
Overall today was 39.59 kilometres with 1378 metres of Climbing.
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