Discovering (North) Devon
- Thread starter IaninSheffield
- Start date
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OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
I guess if it's a quiet period and the driver/helmsperson/engineer(?) is feeling sympathetic, you might have a chance?
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 3 - Lynton and Lynmouth
46.7 miles, 4975 feet of ascent
Today involved juggling the itinerary. Our after-breakfast routine was leisurely and sedate since the train we planned to catch as far as Crediton wasn't due until 10:35. This would be a RailRide - out on the train then ride 'home'. After buying tickets from the machine at the station entrance, then going through to the platform, it was thronged with hopeful passengers, far more than one would expect on a provincial line at this time on a weekday. We soon learned that the preceding two trains had been cancelled owing to driver shortages, presumably victims of 'pinging'. Although we waited until the train arrived, it soon became clear we weren't going to get on … at least not with the bikes! Plan B was hastily drafted and we opted instead to do one of our other routes, whilst also fortunately managing to switch our travel tickets for tomorrow.
Chelfham viaduct
Our route out to Lynton and Lynmouth initially followed the inward route from our first day, heading up the Yeo Valley for the climb up through Loxhore. On the way up the valley, motorists were generally patient, waiting for an appropriate moment to overtake us on the rather winding road. The other day we must have swept past the stunning viaduct at Chelfham without spotting it over our left shoulders. Today it was clearly visible as we approached, and what an amazing structure, made more unusual for me by the pale colour of the bricks. It was after this that I began to notice just how many other buildings in the area were constructed from the same materials, which I assume must be a result of the local clays? I also later learned that the railway for which the viaduct spanned the valley was the Lynton and Barnstaple Railway, closed in 1923, but a line which seemed to regularly intersect and sometimes even provide our route. If still active, it would definitely have propelled us to Lynton more swiftly than our legs were managing!
The stiff and extended ascent through Loxhore served as a warm up for the sequence of ups and downs which followed, the 23% descent then ascent into and out of the pretty little village of Parracombe being of particular note. A brief thought of how wonderful it must be to call such a place your home flits across my mind, then my legs begin grinding out of the valley and such notions are swiftly banished.
Now up on the hilltops, the sign for the Lynton Camping and Caravan Club site suggested we were not far from our halfway point and a cafe stop, but not until we'd negotiated another almost precipitous descent. Lynton perches on a topographical shelf, surrounded by steep hillsides and peering over a cliff to its sister town, Lynmouth, below. From my admittedly limited historical knowledge, I'd say the town typifies Victorian splendour.
Town Hall, Lynton
Entrance to the upper station on the cliff railway
We enjoyed another Devon cream tea - more generous on this occasion - at a cafe at the entrance to the cliff railway, sitting outside in an ideal location for people watching as they made their way to and fro their their transport connection with the town below. After topping up the energy banks we took a brief stroll along the streets and peered over the cliffs to the bay far below, hoping beyond hope that our route wouldn’t take us all the way down there only to have to climb back out. Hope is a wonderful, if not often misguided emotion.
Looking down from St Mary’s church yard, Lynton to Lynmouth and the bay beyond
As we remounted and took the Garmin’s cue to head out of town it became clear our route was taking us down to Lynmouth down a 25% gradient that some vehicles were clearly struggling with, in both directions! At one point the turn beep on the Garmin indicated a direction change, the big white arrow seeming to show we needed to come back in the same direction. The road however seemed to continue ahead. Please don’t say we’ve come all this way down but taken the wrong road! A few dozen yards later and the reason for the direction change became apparent - the road dropped away precipitously to our left, 180° from our current direction. The smells of stressed brake pads and slipping clutches as cars negotiated the gradient and the awkward junction added to our sensory overload.
The Power of Water’, Lynmouth
Safely at the foot of the descent in the welcoming embrace of Lynmouth we wondered what on earth we were likely to be facing on our departure, but thankfully, the road out of town was graciously gentle in the demands it made. However, though the gradient was not too steep, it did go on … and on and on, for several miles up onto the exposed Exmoor hilltops. The early sections which twisted and turned as they followed the Lyn gorge were somewhat reminiscent of alpine gorges, though with deciduous rather than coniferous arboreal cover. The views down to the river below were stunning and with such little traffic could mostly be enjoyed.
Once on Exmoor we were exposed to the stiff south westerly breeze, though thankfully our path only occasionally took us into conflict with it. After several false summits our route eventually began to lose altitude, just as the route profile on the Garmin predicted. What the infernal device also showed was that all the altitude lost over a couple of miles had to be regained once more. This final significant climb took us up past the lonely Fortescue monument, a reminder of the achievements of one of the local landowners and in fact the one time owner of the Castle Hill estate through which we’d passed yesterday. He’d clearly led an interesting life, tempered rather by the privilege which afforded him the opportunities few others at his time could enjoy.
Fortescue monument near Simonsbath
Our climbing was still not at an end with one more tester rising up from Brayford and onto the ridge fringing Stoodley Down, which in the usual English contrary fashion was not a ‘down’ but actually an 'up'! This soon melded with the final half dozen miles we'd covered on our final leg yesterday, terminating with the now familiar cyclepaths of the Whiddon Valley into Barnstaple. An incredibly demanding, but stunning and unmissable ride.
Famished yet again, we settled on an Italian and despite it being a Friday night, we managed to book a table. Having ordered plenty of dishes, our appetites were sated, however, the high expectations we had from an Italian restaurant run by Italians were sadly not met. The service was great and it wasn't at all that the food was poor, just that it was rather underwhelming and with minor changes could have been so much better.
46.7 miles, 4975 feet of ascent
Today involved juggling the itinerary. Our after-breakfast routine was leisurely and sedate since the train we planned to catch as far as Crediton wasn't due until 10:35. This would be a RailRide - out on the train then ride 'home'. After buying tickets from the machine at the station entrance, then going through to the platform, it was thronged with hopeful passengers, far more than one would expect on a provincial line at this time on a weekday. We soon learned that the preceding two trains had been cancelled owing to driver shortages, presumably victims of 'pinging'. Although we waited until the train arrived, it soon became clear we weren't going to get on … at least not with the bikes! Plan B was hastily drafted and we opted instead to do one of our other routes, whilst also fortunately managing to switch our travel tickets for tomorrow.
Chelfham viaduct
Our route out to Lynton and Lynmouth initially followed the inward route from our first day, heading up the Yeo Valley for the climb up through Loxhore. On the way up the valley, motorists were generally patient, waiting for an appropriate moment to overtake us on the rather winding road. The other day we must have swept past the stunning viaduct at Chelfham without spotting it over our left shoulders. Today it was clearly visible as we approached, and what an amazing structure, made more unusual for me by the pale colour of the bricks. It was after this that I began to notice just how many other buildings in the area were constructed from the same materials, which I assume must be a result of the local clays? I also later learned that the railway for which the viaduct spanned the valley was the Lynton and Barnstaple Railway, closed in 1923, but a line which seemed to regularly intersect and sometimes even provide our route. If still active, it would definitely have propelled us to Lynton more swiftly than our legs were managing!
The stiff and extended ascent through Loxhore served as a warm up for the sequence of ups and downs which followed, the 23% descent then ascent into and out of the pretty little village of Parracombe being of particular note. A brief thought of how wonderful it must be to call such a place your home flits across my mind, then my legs begin grinding out of the valley and such notions are swiftly banished.
Now up on the hilltops, the sign for the Lynton Camping and Caravan Club site suggested we were not far from our halfway point and a cafe stop, but not until we'd negotiated another almost precipitous descent. Lynton perches on a topographical shelf, surrounded by steep hillsides and peering over a cliff to its sister town, Lynmouth, below. From my admittedly limited historical knowledge, I'd say the town typifies Victorian splendour.
Town Hall, Lynton
Entrance to the upper station on the cliff railway
We enjoyed another Devon cream tea - more generous on this occasion - at a cafe at the entrance to the cliff railway, sitting outside in an ideal location for people watching as they made their way to and fro their their transport connection with the town below. After topping up the energy banks we took a brief stroll along the streets and peered over the cliffs to the bay far below, hoping beyond hope that our route wouldn’t take us all the way down there only to have to climb back out. Hope is a wonderful, if not often misguided emotion.
Looking down from St Mary’s church yard, Lynton to Lynmouth and the bay beyond
As we remounted and took the Garmin’s cue to head out of town it became clear our route was taking us down to Lynmouth down a 25% gradient that some vehicles were clearly struggling with, in both directions! At one point the turn beep on the Garmin indicated a direction change, the big white arrow seeming to show we needed to come back in the same direction. The road however seemed to continue ahead. Please don’t say we’ve come all this way down but taken the wrong road! A few dozen yards later and the reason for the direction change became apparent - the road dropped away precipitously to our left, 180° from our current direction. The smells of stressed brake pads and slipping clutches as cars negotiated the gradient and the awkward junction added to our sensory overload.
The Power of Water’, Lynmouth
Safely at the foot of the descent in the welcoming embrace of Lynmouth we wondered what on earth we were likely to be facing on our departure, but thankfully, the road out of town was graciously gentle in the demands it made. However, though the gradient was not too steep, it did go on … and on and on, for several miles up onto the exposed Exmoor hilltops. The early sections which twisted and turned as they followed the Lyn gorge were somewhat reminiscent of alpine gorges, though with deciduous rather than coniferous arboreal cover. The views down to the river below were stunning and with such little traffic could mostly be enjoyed.
Once on Exmoor we were exposed to the stiff south westerly breeze, though thankfully our path only occasionally took us into conflict with it. After several false summits our route eventually began to lose altitude, just as the route profile on the Garmin predicted. What the infernal device also showed was that all the altitude lost over a couple of miles had to be regained once more. This final significant climb took us up past the lonely Fortescue monument, a reminder of the achievements of one of the local landowners and in fact the one time owner of the Castle Hill estate through which we’d passed yesterday. He’d clearly led an interesting life, tempered rather by the privilege which afforded him the opportunities few others at his time could enjoy.
Fortescue monument near Simonsbath
Our climbing was still not at an end with one more tester rising up from Brayford and onto the ridge fringing Stoodley Down, which in the usual English contrary fashion was not a ‘down’ but actually an 'up'! This soon melded with the final half dozen miles we'd covered on our final leg yesterday, terminating with the now familiar cyclepaths of the Whiddon Valley into Barnstaple. An incredibly demanding, but stunning and unmissable ride.
Famished yet again, we settled on an Italian and despite it being a Friday night, we managed to book a table. Having ordered plenty of dishes, our appetites were sated, however, the high expectations we had from an Italian restaurant run by Italians were sadly not met. The service was great and it wasn't at all that the food was poor, just that it was rather underwhelming and with minor changes could have been so much better.
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 4 - Crediton RailRide
53.0 miles, 5141 feet of ascent
Barnstaple station
RailRide attempt 2 was far more successful than yesterday's abortive effort. After once again arriving at the station in plenty of time for our train, we found the platform to be heaving with passengers waiting for the same train as us. Most had suitcases, so perhaps with this being a Saturday they were making their return journeys from holidays, or perhaps were Barnstaplians heading away for a break. Our concerns whether there would be enough space for us and the bikes were unfounded, and not only did we get the bikes on but also managed to secure two seats. We were on our way!
Crediton station
The train follows the River Taw upstream so you enjoy the scenery a valley with a meandering river has to offer. Several small, rural stations punctuated our journey before we arrived in the pretty little station at Crediton ready for the more challenging cycling leg of our journey to begin. After traversing the town we were soon out into the countryside and onto perhaps the most challenging terrain of the trip so far. The gradients were sufficiently steep to challenge the muscles, whilst also being long enough to deplete energy reserves. And it was one after another after another. On the other hand, the route was along quiet lanes with little traffic and passed through delightful villages that time had forgotten … well, apart from the premium SUVs parked in most driveways.
Red Lion, Shobrooke
Our route for the day also briefly covered roads along which we had passed several years ago whilst undertaking a LEJOG; we even paused briefly at one of our overnight stops - as the image at the end of this post shows. Other than the incorporation of the ‘Village shop’, it’s changed little in all those years. Another memory, specifically for me, was that we passed a village where a school pal (and former cycle touring buddy - we toured through Belgium and down the Rhine valley when we were sixteen) moved when his dad got a job down south. As a small, close-knit group of friends we once visited, spending each evening in the Half Moon - a 'proper' pub. It too appears to have changed little.
Half Moon, Cheriton Fitzpaine
Climbing hills and enjoying expansive views then dropping into steep-sided, wooded valleys and gorges became the order of the day right through to our cafe stop in Dulverton, one of those picture-postcard places that attracts throngs of weekend visitors. The village clearly had a multitude of visitors sauntering about the streets, but so too were the residents, one even asking us if we needed help when we were discussing where to take our coffee. How thoughtful and considerate. The coffee and cakes were particularly delicious today, taken on a bench whilst watching the antics of motorists navigating the narrow streets of Dulverton. The Millionaires Slice and Frosted fruit sandwich flapjack provided much needed sustenance in preparation for the second half of our cycle leg.
Dulverton
With half the distance done and over half the altitude gain secured, it was nevertheless no time to be complacent. As is so often the case, a tea shop stop was followed by a monster climb. NCN route 3 out of Dulverton immediately heads upwards, climbing a road which merits three separate single chevrons on the OS map as it scrambles for the edge of Exmoor. The ascent continues for several miles, although fortunately at a more manageable gradient. Just before being let off the hook and whilst still on one of the steeper sections, my eye was taken with something on the road ahead which seemed out of place. It was light brown, mostly about a centimetre thick and perhaps 15cm long … and it wriggled when I approached it! A slow worm! I tried to usher it into the verge, but it kept insisting on trying to cross the road - perhaps it thought it was a chicken? So I left it to its devices and continued my upward journey, hoping my slithering friend didn't end up flattened by a car tyre. (Truth be told, I was too squeamish to pick it up and toss it safely over the hedge into the field beyond!)
Hurriedly taken and rather poor photo of a slow worm
As we enjoyed superb views across to Dartmoor in the far distance, it became apparent that we might have to push on. It being a Saturday we'd had to book a table for our evening meal and had elected to return to the Ganges where we'd enjoyed such superb food a few nights earlier. The downside was that our table was booked for 18:30 and with 20 mi!es of testing terrain still to cover in just over two hours, despite our fatigued legs, we needed to get a hustle on. We knew that several miles further on we had an extended climb out of Brayford; it was only yesterday we'd suffered at its hands. But other than that it was gentle climbing which could be done at a reasonable pace, and descents where we could press on. Energy gels taken before descending kept us topped up prior to the climb and we made it back to the B&B in ample time to get a shower before heading down for our curry. Once again we enjoyed a wonderful selection of quality food, although Paul's main dish choice let him down just slightly. (NB: when you ask if a dish on the menu is hot, and the waiter replies ‘Quite hot’, don’t be surprised when the dish is hot!) Most importantly, our reserves were replenished in preparation for our final day's exertions tomorrow.
53.0 miles, 5141 feet of ascent
Barnstaple station
RailRide attempt 2 was far more successful than yesterday's abortive effort. After once again arriving at the station in plenty of time for our train, we found the platform to be heaving with passengers waiting for the same train as us. Most had suitcases, so perhaps with this being a Saturday they were making their return journeys from holidays, or perhaps were Barnstaplians heading away for a break. Our concerns whether there would be enough space for us and the bikes were unfounded, and not only did we get the bikes on but also managed to secure two seats. We were on our way!
Crediton station
The train follows the River Taw upstream so you enjoy the scenery a valley with a meandering river has to offer. Several small, rural stations punctuated our journey before we arrived in the pretty little station at Crediton ready for the more challenging cycling leg of our journey to begin. After traversing the town we were soon out into the countryside and onto perhaps the most challenging terrain of the trip so far. The gradients were sufficiently steep to challenge the muscles, whilst also being long enough to deplete energy reserves. And it was one after another after another. On the other hand, the route was along quiet lanes with little traffic and passed through delightful villages that time had forgotten … well, apart from the premium SUVs parked in most driveways.
Red Lion, Shobrooke
Our route for the day also briefly covered roads along which we had passed several years ago whilst undertaking a LEJOG; we even paused briefly at one of our overnight stops - as the image at the end of this post shows. Other than the incorporation of the ‘Village shop’, it’s changed little in all those years. Another memory, specifically for me, was that we passed a village where a school pal (and former cycle touring buddy - we toured through Belgium and down the Rhine valley when we were sixteen) moved when his dad got a job down south. As a small, close-knit group of friends we once visited, spending each evening in the Half Moon - a 'proper' pub. It too appears to have changed little.
Half Moon, Cheriton Fitzpaine
Climbing hills and enjoying expansive views then dropping into steep-sided, wooded valleys and gorges became the order of the day right through to our cafe stop in Dulverton, one of those picture-postcard places that attracts throngs of weekend visitors. The village clearly had a multitude of visitors sauntering about the streets, but so too were the residents, one even asking us if we needed help when we were discussing where to take our coffee. How thoughtful and considerate. The coffee and cakes were particularly delicious today, taken on a bench whilst watching the antics of motorists navigating the narrow streets of Dulverton. The Millionaires Slice and Frosted fruit sandwich flapjack provided much needed sustenance in preparation for the second half of our cycle leg.
Dulverton
With half the distance done and over half the altitude gain secured, it was nevertheless no time to be complacent. As is so often the case, a tea shop stop was followed by a monster climb. NCN route 3 out of Dulverton immediately heads upwards, climbing a road which merits three separate single chevrons on the OS map as it scrambles for the edge of Exmoor. The ascent continues for several miles, although fortunately at a more manageable gradient. Just before being let off the hook and whilst still on one of the steeper sections, my eye was taken with something on the road ahead which seemed out of place. It was light brown, mostly about a centimetre thick and perhaps 15cm long … and it wriggled when I approached it! A slow worm! I tried to usher it into the verge, but it kept insisting on trying to cross the road - perhaps it thought it was a chicken? So I left it to its devices and continued my upward journey, hoping my slithering friend didn't end up flattened by a car tyre. (Truth be told, I was too squeamish to pick it up and toss it safely over the hedge into the field beyond!)
Hurriedly taken and rather poor photo of a slow worm
As we enjoyed superb views across to Dartmoor in the far distance, it became apparent that we might have to push on. It being a Saturday we'd had to book a table for our evening meal and had elected to return to the Ganges where we'd enjoyed such superb food a few nights earlier. The downside was that our table was booked for 18:30 and with 20 mi!es of testing terrain still to cover in just over two hours, despite our fatigued legs, we needed to get a hustle on. We knew that several miles further on we had an extended climb out of Brayford; it was only yesterday we'd suffered at its hands. But other than that it was gentle climbing which could be done at a reasonable pace, and descents where we could press on. Energy gels taken before descending kept us topped up prior to the climb and we made it back to the B&B in ample time to get a shower before heading down for our curry. Once again we enjoyed a wonderful selection of quality food, although Paul's main dish choice let him down just slightly. (NB: when you ask if a dish on the menu is hot, and the waiter replies ‘Quite hot’, don’t be surprised when the dish is hot!) Most importantly, our reserves were replenished in preparation for our final day's exertions tomorrow.
Johnsco
Old Fettler
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
Again - These are much-loved places - I love Exmoor - One of my spiritual homes.
uphillstruggler
Guru
- Location
- Half way there
That climb out of Dulverton, ouch
Had the good (Mis)fortune of riding that loaded with bike packing kit recently.
Your choice of area for a weeks cycling was a good one, and you’re planning is to to be admired
The image is my bike on the road out of and up from Dulverton.
Last edited:
newts
Veteran
- Location
- Isca Dumnoniorum
I used to sit on the Barle bridge fishing for trout at Dulverton whilst all the holiday traffic came & went, happy memories.
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Your bike looks not dissimilar to how we did after completing the ascent
Kudos for taking it on loaded.
We passed a trio of tourers taking a break about halfway up the climb. They were ... ahem, big lads and had full sets of 4 panniers each. Braver than me!
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 5 - Great Torrington (recovery ride)
32.4 miles, 1640 feet of ascent
After the exertions of the past few days, and with a less than encouraging forecast, we felt a wind-down ride was in order. For this, our route would take us out over the hills to Great Torrington where we could pick up the Tarka Trail back to base through Bideford.
Tawstock Castle
The opening section took us back down into town to pick up the first few metres of the Trail before immediately turning off onto the back roads and of course straight into a climb. A series of Devonian ascents and descents followed in quick succession, but the overall trend resulted in a gradual gain in altitude. In the midst of the upwardly path the rain which had threatened since leaving the B&B eventually broke through, forcing us to take shelter for a few minutes.
Skillful thatchers round these parts. That, or that 'oss on the roof is damned good at Parkour
We managed a few miles further before the rain became more persistent, insisting we remain under tree cover. Eventually it eased sufficiently for us to make a break for Great Torrington only two miles further on where we went in search of coffee and cake. Hampered somewhat by busy traffic on the main road, we took to the pretty little back streets in search of a cafe, but none were sufficiently obliging as to be open on a Sunday.
Great Torrington
However, we had a Plan B in the ‘Puffing Billy’, a trailside cafe and restaurant sited in the former Torrington station building. What's more, the rain had abated and we were able to sit at an outside table to enjoy our coffee and almond and caramel slice. Lots of families and couples seemed to have the Billy as their designated Sunday lunch stop - the food did look quite appetising.
Lunchtime at the Puffing Billy
This heron (or maybe another) was in the same fishing spot when we passed the other day.
With all our climbing done, half the distance covered, and the sun starting to peek through, we were in no rush to set off … at least until some rather gloomy looking clouds began to gather overhead. So on with the rain jackets which had only just dried out and homewards we set. The Trail seemed surprisingly quiet compared with the other day, especially given this was the weekend, but at least that allowed for unimpeded progress. By the time we reached Bideford, the drizzle had stopped and the sun was keen to make amends, so we crossed the bridge over the Torridge and had a brief explore of the town centre. Lots of little independent shops, interesting architecture and enticing, winding back alleys all hinted at the town's seafaring connections. Even the riverfront had more of a seafront feel.
Instow, on the Torridge
Back on the Trail the sunshine held sway, accompanying us to Instow where we had a quick ride along the seafront. Long, sandy beaches stretched into the distance, though were across the mouth of the Taw and therefore inaccessible from Instow. We returned to the Trail and completed the final few miles to Barnstaple where we struggled to find a cafe open for a post-ride coffee. What our search did permit though was a wander around some of the town centre streets we'd not yet seen.
Queen Anne's Walk, Barnstaple
Finally back at the B&B we stripped down the bikes and loaded them in the car ready for tomorrow's homeward journey. After a shower and a rest we made our way down through the Park into town for the last time, Wetherspoons bookending our evening repast locations. Although I'm not particularly attracted to meat-wannabe vegetarian foodstuffs, I decided to give a 'Beyond Meat' burger a try. I have to say I was sufficiently impressed that should I see one on a menu in the future, I wouldn't rule it out.
32.4 miles, 1640 feet of ascent
After the exertions of the past few days, and with a less than encouraging forecast, we felt a wind-down ride was in order. For this, our route would take us out over the hills to Great Torrington where we could pick up the Tarka Trail back to base through Bideford.
Tawstock Castle
The opening section took us back down into town to pick up the first few metres of the Trail before immediately turning off onto the back roads and of course straight into a climb. A series of Devonian ascents and descents followed in quick succession, but the overall trend resulted in a gradual gain in altitude. In the midst of the upwardly path the rain which had threatened since leaving the B&B eventually broke through, forcing us to take shelter for a few minutes.
Skillful thatchers round these parts. That, or that 'oss on the roof is damned good at Parkour
We managed a few miles further before the rain became more persistent, insisting we remain under tree cover. Eventually it eased sufficiently for us to make a break for Great Torrington only two miles further on where we went in search of coffee and cake. Hampered somewhat by busy traffic on the main road, we took to the pretty little back streets in search of a cafe, but none were sufficiently obliging as to be open on a Sunday.
Great Torrington
However, we had a Plan B in the ‘Puffing Billy’, a trailside cafe and restaurant sited in the former Torrington station building. What's more, the rain had abated and we were able to sit at an outside table to enjoy our coffee and almond and caramel slice. Lots of families and couples seemed to have the Billy as their designated Sunday lunch stop - the food did look quite appetising.
Lunchtime at the Puffing Billy
This heron (or maybe another) was in the same fishing spot when we passed the other day.
With all our climbing done, half the distance covered, and the sun starting to peek through, we were in no rush to set off … at least until some rather gloomy looking clouds began to gather overhead. So on with the rain jackets which had only just dried out and homewards we set. The Trail seemed surprisingly quiet compared with the other day, especially given this was the weekend, but at least that allowed for unimpeded progress. By the time we reached Bideford, the drizzle had stopped and the sun was keen to make amends, so we crossed the bridge over the Torridge and had a brief explore of the town centre. Lots of little independent shops, interesting architecture and enticing, winding back alleys all hinted at the town's seafaring connections. Even the riverfront had more of a seafront feel.
Instow, on the Torridge
Back on the Trail the sunshine held sway, accompanying us to Instow where we had a quick ride along the seafront. Long, sandy beaches stretched into the distance, though were across the mouth of the Taw and therefore inaccessible from Instow. We returned to the Trail and completed the final few miles to Barnstaple where we struggled to find a cafe open for a post-ride coffee. What our search did permit though was a wander around some of the town centre streets we'd not yet seen.
Queen Anne's Walk, Barnstaple
Finally back at the B&B we stripped down the bikes and loaded them in the car ready for tomorrow's homeward journey. After a shower and a rest we made our way down through the Park into town for the last time, Wetherspoons bookending our evening repast locations. Although I'm not particularly attracted to meat-wannabe vegetarian foodstuffs, I decided to give a 'Beyond Meat' burger a try. I have to say I was sufficiently impressed that should I see one on a menu in the future, I wouldn't rule it out.
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Epilogue
Our journey back north was largely uneventful, hampered only by periods of slow moving traffic on both the M5 and M42. Certainly less stressful and more swift than the train could have managed.
My thoughts on north Devon?
Taking our tour in school holiday time was a bit of a worry, especially given current circumstances when Brits have been mostly restricted from travelling abroad. Maybe it was the un-summerlike weather, but we found nowhere (other than the trains!) too crowded. Holiday makers on the roads were initially a concern, but this too proved to be unfounded; perhaps we had chosen our routes carefully?
Valley of Rocks Hotel, Lynton
Barnstaple was a great base. As a large town it had a lot to offer including plenty of interest in its own right, a wide range of retail outlets (including a ‘BikeShed’ cycle shop), generally good road and rail access, and most importantly, a great variety of cycling routes and destinations from which to choose.
The cycling is not for the faint of heart. The landscape around these parts is far from forgiving, but is also generous in the variety and richness of the surroundings through which you pass. Moors and pasturelands, gorges and valleys, seaside towns and pretty inland villages; there’s plenty to please and delight … when your breathing returns to normal and you’re finally able to wipe the sweat from your eyes!
Barle Valley near Simonsbath
The Tarka Trail. I’ve read mixed reviews about the Trail, many cyclists bemoaning how busy it can become and as a consequence how it impedes progress. If you’re on a schedule or out for a fitness session, I guess that could be the case, but for me, much of the pleasure comes from being able to take your time and enjoy interactions with a wide range of fellow cyclists. It’s stress- and traffic-free cycling along great surfaces. There are excellent, ever-changing views around each bend. There are bridges over rivers, tree-lined glades and wildlife aplenty.The trailside facilities are regular and plentiful. It’s (mostly) flat! Whether you’re a family with young children, on a tour, or out for a morning’s jaunt, it really does have much to offer.
One of the many bridges over the Torridge from the Tarka Trail
I guess the main question is whether I’d go back? An unequivocal yes. There are other routes to explore in this vicinity, but since north Devon is such a large area with a wealth of other locations which could also serve as excellent bases, for variety I’d probably look elsewhere. Although my buddy Paul wouldn’t be up for it, I wonder whether a tour around the county might be feasible - there’s so much to see and so many lanes to explore. And then I think what it might have been like straining to haul a loaded touring bike up some of the climbs we’d encountered during our week. Crikey! I better get cracking before I age any further!
Our journey back north was largely uneventful, hampered only by periods of slow moving traffic on both the M5 and M42. Certainly less stressful and more swift than the train could have managed.
My thoughts on north Devon?
Taking our tour in school holiday time was a bit of a worry, especially given current circumstances when Brits have been mostly restricted from travelling abroad. Maybe it was the un-summerlike weather, but we found nowhere (other than the trains!) too crowded. Holiday makers on the roads were initially a concern, but this too proved to be unfounded; perhaps we had chosen our routes carefully?
Valley of Rocks Hotel, Lynton
Barnstaple was a great base. As a large town it had a lot to offer including plenty of interest in its own right, a wide range of retail outlets (including a ‘BikeShed’ cycle shop), generally good road and rail access, and most importantly, a great variety of cycling routes and destinations from which to choose.
The cycling is not for the faint of heart. The landscape around these parts is far from forgiving, but is also generous in the variety and richness of the surroundings through which you pass. Moors and pasturelands, gorges and valleys, seaside towns and pretty inland villages; there’s plenty to please and delight … when your breathing returns to normal and you’re finally able to wipe the sweat from your eyes!
Barle Valley near Simonsbath
The Tarka Trail. I’ve read mixed reviews about the Trail, many cyclists bemoaning how busy it can become and as a consequence how it impedes progress. If you’re on a schedule or out for a fitness session, I guess that could be the case, but for me, much of the pleasure comes from being able to take your time and enjoy interactions with a wide range of fellow cyclists. It’s stress- and traffic-free cycling along great surfaces. There are excellent, ever-changing views around each bend. There are bridges over rivers, tree-lined glades and wildlife aplenty.The trailside facilities are regular and plentiful. It’s (mostly) flat! Whether you’re a family with young children, on a tour, or out for a morning’s jaunt, it really does have much to offer.
One of the many bridges over the Torridge from the Tarka Trail
I guess the main question is whether I’d go back? An unequivocal yes. There are other routes to explore in this vicinity, but since north Devon is such a large area with a wealth of other locations which could also serve as excellent bases, for variety I’d probably look elsewhere. Although my buddy Paul wouldn’t be up for it, I wonder whether a tour around the county might be feasible - there’s so much to see and so many lanes to explore. And then I think what it might have been like straining to haul a loaded touring bike up some of the climbs we’d encountered during our week. Crikey! I better get cracking before I age any further!
uphillstruggler
Guru
- Location
- Half way there
thanks for the cracking write ups, having cycled around the area recently myself, i can see why you would go back. its hard going at times, but with the right kit and a bit of gumption, it is a fantastic option.
one thing I always think with mostly circular rides like yours is to do them back to front as an option, I usually find there's plenty you miss going one way so the reverse route, although along the same roads, gives the 180 degree viewpoint.
Anyway, thanks again for taking the time to write them up and also posting some great images.
one thing I always think with mostly circular rides like yours is to do them back to front as an option, I usually find there's plenty you miss going one way so the reverse route, although along the same roads, gives the 180 degree viewpoint.
Anyway, thanks again for taking the time to write them up and also posting some great images.
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OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
You're welcome. I enjoy the writing; it helps to cement and augment the experience, at least for me.
Good point on reversing direction, I agree completely. Although I'd need to give myself a good talking to before taking on the descents into Woolacombe and into Lynton in the opposite direction!
Quite right. I was so afraid of the climb back out of Lynmouth via Lynton that I opted instead for Countisbury Hill, a mere 25% at the bottom.You're welcome. I enjoy the writing; it helps to cement and augment the experience, at least for me.
Good point on reversing direction, I agree completely. Although I'd need to give myself a good talking to before taking on the descents into Woolacombe and into Lynton in the opposite direction!
chriswoody
Legendary Member
- Location
- Northern Germany
It's been great to read of your adventures and see the photos, it's made me a little homesick. Thanks for taking the time to write it up, there was some great rides and it was good to see the weather held up for you.
I distinctly remember one day when I was thirteen, pushing my ten speed Raleigh Winner up Chalacombe hill on Exmoor. I was feeling mightily miffed and frazzled and I had a word with myself, if I was going to continue with this hobby that I was enjoying so much, then I needed to learn how to climb hills without walking! Needless to say, I developed into quite a hill climber over the subsequent years.
I distinctly remember one day when I was thirteen, pushing my ten speed Raleigh Winner up Chalacombe hill on Exmoor. I was feeling mightily miffed and frazzled and I had a word with myself, if I was going to continue with this hobby that I was enjoying so much, then I needed to learn how to climb hills without walking! Needless to say, I developed into quite a hill climber over the subsequent years.
