Fork Replacement

[Drewski]

I've just bought a used Claud Butler commuter and noticed the forks were way too "soft". I thought it was just a case of needing new seals but on closer examination they're badly pitted so new seals won't fix it. What's my best option? Is it possible to buy a new crown..... or am I better off replacing the whole assembly? I don't need anything special, 50mm travel is fine, (the bike will be mainly used on road and tow path riding).
It would be nice to get a set that I can fit either the current V brakes or upgrade to a disc if I wanted and I'd also like to have a remote lockout..... but the bike didn't cost much in the first place so I don't want to spend a lot on new forks.

Any suggestions where to look? The current forks are Suntour CR850, 1 1/8" steerer, 195mm long and threaded. Drop outs are 100mm, wheels are 700c.

TIA, Drewski.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

The softness of the fork is not related to the wear damage. If it is an air fork, you'll need more air. If it is a coil spring fork, you'll need a stiffer coil spring. However, that is an entry-level for and it will cost you more to replace the stanchions (crown), seals and oil, than it would to buy a new fork. If you really need a suspension fork, get one, otherwise a fixed fork is much better, cheaper and lighter.

 

[Ajax Bay]

the bike will be mainly used on road and tow path riding

a fixed fork is much better, cheaper and lighter.

^^^^ Fixed fork for this sort of riding. Many of these bikes are sold with suspension forks because the marketeers have managed to con the buying public that a bike with a suspension fork is 'better' (aka they can sell it for a premium). Do the new marketing speak 'gravel bikes' have a suspension fork? Normally not (because they're a better fitted for purpose with a fixed fork).

 

[Drewski]

Thanks, I did think about fixed forks, I know there's a lot of cyclists see suspension as unnecessary unless you're riding on rough ground. It should certainly save me a few £'s

 

[lpretro1]

Buy a cheap pair of Rockshox which are easily maintianed - Suntour forks are not best quality. If you do fit a rigid fork you'll need one which compensates for the suspension fork you are removing

 

[Ajax Bay]

If you do fit a rigid fork you'll need one which compensates for the suspension fork you are removing

By that I take her/him to mean that the offset on the rigid fork needs to be the same as the suspension fork, to keep the bike's handling characteristics the same.
[Fork offset is how far the front axle sits ahead of an imaginary line that runs through the steering axis.]

 

[raleighnut]

By that I take her/him to mean that the offset on the rigid fork needs to be the same as the suspension fork, to keep the bike's handling characteristics the same.
[Fork offset is how far the front axle sits ahead of an imaginary line that runs through the steering axis.]

They need to be as long as the suspension fork too.

 

[Ajax Bay]

"They need to be as long as the suspension fork too" . . "when measured with the rider compressing to their in use position".
I guess we should add that the steerer tube length should be about the same too, and its OD needs to be exactly the same. Would be good if fork chosen that was compatible with upper headset bearing (but no biggy).