this is the ride that slid on to the calendar - and wouldn't have done had it not been for the Greg M.'s prompting and his and Andrew B's enthusiasm.
I'd settled for two out-of-London rides, thinking that three would be pushing people's patience and would add to the pressure on my Fridays in the run-up to the Martlets ride, but Greg sent me e-mails suggesting routes and halfway stops, offering to check out both. I suppose, what with his 12 hour races, PBP preparations, PhD studies and cramming for UC he was at a bit of a loose end.....
I found the Bay Horse less by accident than by elimination. For the start, York picks itself. For the finish Hull seemed only right and proper given Shaun's support for the ride. The Humber Bridge was a must. Throw some 70 mile loops over Google Maps and the apparently empty stretch between Goole and Scunthorpe looks good for the halfway stop. Go in to all the parish council sites for the Isle of Axholme, e-mail all the cafes (there was one), all the parish councils and all the pubs and sit back..........I had one reply from a village hall committee, and, after some to-ing and fro-ing they decided it was all a bit too weird. One pub didn't have an e-mail address, wasn't in the phone book and appeared on the internet only as a site for a recycling bin. I called the parish council, they gave me a mobile number, I got through on the third attempt, then wrote them a letter, followed up the letter with a phone call, got a yes, and we had a ride....
......without knowing much of the route. My thought is that if you go to a different part of the country you have to make a ride that is exemplary; it's no use going to Lancashire and avoiding mill towns and hills, and, equally, a ride around the Humber estuary should be as flat as possible. The first half down to the Trent crossing was pan flat, and I was pretty confident it would be deserted at night, but the second half looked bitty and hard to manage. Streetmap gave up a means of bypassing Scunthorpe using three short climbs and three gentle descents. Andrew and Greg joined me on a recce ride, and, yes, it was flat, but it was also pretty darn windy - Andrew and I taking full advantage of the slender break in the wind afforded by Greg as he set about tearing our legs off. We'd originally intended to take the ride via Melbourne and stop off for coffee, but, over time I decided that getting to the Trent bridge against a strong southerly wind was going to be tough enough and I didn't want to be riding in to Hull an nine in the morning.
The recce was a vindication of the route. I've never done an FNRttC on the back of one recce before (Whitstable took five) but it was so straightforward there didn't seem to be the need to go back. What you don't know is that as a daytime ride it's a bit dull - the stretch down to Goole is ordinary with no views of note, and the stretch from the Trent bridge to the Humber Bridge is heavily trafficked, but night time rides on the flat are not about landscape - they're about the road and the sky, and here we had chances.
And so it turned out. The sky played a blinder. The silver harvest moon lit up the clouds so wonderfully it seemed as if we were shooting the thing in 'day for night'. We slipped out of York and on to the B1228 easily, and formed a tight little train, giving those at the back an easier ride as the breeze stiffened against us. We stopped briefly in Howden and didn't get our first puncture until we were coming in to Goole, there to meet Peter who had escaped the railway in Leeds and covered the thirty four miles required at such a rate that he arrived two minutes before us - indeed, if we hadn't had the puncture we might have collided on Boothferry Road.
Goole by night is quite the thing. You'd want a bit of fog for the full L'Atalante, but the steel bridges, the docks, the warehouses and the plumes of vapour rising from behind high brick walls screamed for a Jean Vigo fashion shoot. Pass the dungarees!
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On then, in to the pasture retrieved from the sea by the great Vermuyden three hundred years ago. To our left the dyke kept the dull flat water at bay, as our elevation hovered just above, and very occasionally below sea level. The moon, sinking to the west was just plain showing off. We were now in Howard Hawks territory
I increased the speed at the front, seeking to stagger our arrival at the Bay Horse, and our little bunch spread out over half a mile or so. Looking back over the unhedged roads the line of lights taking lefts and rights according the Vermuyden's plan, all moving with purpose and a good heart, one thought that while the Dutch could keep their cycle paths and their ghastly bikes, we would be forever grateful for their engineers. And thus, after thirty nine remarkably straightforward miles in just over three and a half hours we arrived at our halfway stop.
The Bay Horse has something of a Tolkien ring about it, but it's really an object lesson in hope. Two young women have taken on what seems to be an impossible task. There's no passing trade, and the only way to make something of a living is to pray for visits by the local Lambretta Club, or a bunch of nocturnal cyclists. As I left I said that we'd be back next year, and they said 'if we're still here...' We ate our ham rolls and cakes, drank coffee, Mark did the honours with the collection, and we left at about 4.20
Down then, for another seven miles or so to the Trent Bridge. There was a sprinkling of rain, and our second puncture, fixed thanks to Mr. Charley's toolkit - my one RLG (Ride Leader Grumble) of the night being 'if you need a spanner to take a wheel off, bring a spanner'. Adrian climbed the dyke to watch the Trent sweep in from the sea, pushing water up as far as Gainsborough, and the some of the waiting crew threw on jackets when a small shower swept up the road against us in the opposite direction. The Trent is a mighty river, big and burly as far south of Gunthorpe, and is the heart of our power stations, but rivers don't feature in our imagination as they used to, presumably because they don't present as great an barrier or as great a threat as they used to. That's a great shame, so here, in the hope of redressing matters in some small measure, is a scene from the River Trent of bygone years - a young Aperitif doing ferry service at Barton
We made the turn, crossed the river and headed up the opposite bank to Flixborough for the first of our three climbs, and then took a long, swinging descent down to Thealby before climbing again to the A1077 and our first view of the Humber Bridge. Another lengthy descent, to the shore of the estuary, and then the pretty little climb through South Ferriby which brought the Bridge firmly in to our sights.
Crossing the Humber Bridge is an awesome thing. It's a long way up. Those aircraft landings that come in over the sea give you a kind of diagram of the waves below, and looking down from the centre of the bridge, a hundred foot and more up in the air, gives you the same kind of diagram.
The Hulliddlians nixed my Clive Sullivan Survival Plan and promised us a route to our destination that was gentle and gracious, and this they delivered, with the added benefit of not being a foot longer than it needed to be. We rolled down a broad tree-lined boulevard, reaching Cafe Pasaz at a quarter to eight, none of us greatly out of breath, and set to one of the quickest and best breakfasts the FNRttC has ever had the pleasure to meet. Folk drifted away, to home, to the railway station or to sleep, but a hardened corps of beerboys and girls knocked back Peroni until about one in the afternoon before taking the train south.
It was, as ever, a pleasure. The ride is one of my favourites, but it is the people that make so, and, in particular, the smiles. Thankyou one and all for turning out on such an unlikely adventure. We really must do it again some time.