andytheflyer
Guru
- Location
- South Cheshire
Today, I had one "Wow!" and a group "I want one of those!"
Newbie 2W/3W Bent Blog
- Thread starter Falco Frank
- Start date
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Chains are an issue for a number of reasons, from extra resistance due to awkward lines, resistance in rollers and pulleys or simply the length.
Also some setups have larger differences between the teeth of the small and large cogs,meaning that a derailleur cahg can find it difficultto cope.
The basics though are exactly the same, you want some tension when in the smallest gears, and some slack in the highest geras.
Setting the chain length to achieve this can take some trial and error
Also some setups have larger differences between the teeth of the small and large cogs,meaning that a derailleur cahg can find it difficultto cope.
The basics though are exactly the same, you want some tension when in the smallest gears, and some slack in the highest geras.
Setting the chain length to achieve this can take some trial and error
Not a 'Like' - more of an 'Empathy' ...Saddest one for me....
He has some really brilliant bikes
... for an old man
SatNavSaysStraightOn
Changed hemispheres!
- Location
- ɐᴉlɐɹʇsn∀ 'ɐɹɹǝquɐƆ
Sorry that made me laugh.... I will apologise when I get the same in female form!Saddest one for me....
He has some really brilliant bikes
... for an old man
FTFY ...
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Falco Frank
Über Member
- Location
- Oup Norf'
Trials & Tribulations:
So I stood in the garage last night, tea in hand, brooding over if I should just make a simple loose head bearing adjustment or 'delve a little deeper'.
Fatal for me really.
The overseat steering in my opinion, ever since I got the bike does not feel logical or as comfortable as it could be, so I've been keen to try the USS, asap!
I'd hoped to be able to install the USS bar while all the overbar kit was still installed but the steerer tube simply would not fit and I couldnt see inside the fork tube.
Within 5 minutes the front loading bar assembly was off, as was the very cleverly designed Terracycle 'tiller' for want of a better word.
Once I'd suspended the boom from the garage roof and gotten the forks out, I could see the reason why my puny plan had failed. A 'triangle' slider (for want of yet another word) had been left installed from the last time the USS had been used - this had solidly corroded itself in place and took some time to extract safely.
The head bearings were starting to run a little dry and were in need of some TLC. I was pleasantly pleased to see that needle roller bearings are fitted to the bottom assembly with good old balls in the top.
Why is that my bursts of progress always seem to get blighted by a problem?
While assessing if the friction due to the hub dynamo is really as much as an issue as I think it is (and it is!) I could not help but notice that the front disc is badly warped, not surprising for such a thin sliver of metal trying to slow down so much velocity, ha haa.
Are all 180mm discs capable of being interchanged dear readers or do I need to stick with an original, Magura, in this case?
A quick look at the very basic forks showed them in great condition, thanks to its black rubber slider booties, I imagine.
While a final try of the USS bar in position left me a little nervous, especially after some of the impressions I've read on the 'net, it wont stop me, as long as I can figure how on earth the controls are meant to mount, vertically!
Ciao - Frazzled Frank
So I stood in the garage last night, tea in hand, brooding over if I should just make a simple loose head bearing adjustment or 'delve a little deeper'.
Fatal for me really.
The overseat steering in my opinion, ever since I got the bike does not feel logical or as comfortable as it could be, so I've been keen to try the USS, asap!
I'd hoped to be able to install the USS bar while all the overbar kit was still installed but the steerer tube simply would not fit and I couldnt see inside the fork tube.
Within 5 minutes the front loading bar assembly was off, as was the very cleverly designed Terracycle 'tiller' for want of a better word.
Once I'd suspended the boom from the garage roof and gotten the forks out, I could see the reason why my puny plan had failed. A 'triangle' slider (for want of yet another word) had been left installed from the last time the USS had been used - this had solidly corroded itself in place and took some time to extract safely.
The head bearings were starting to run a little dry and were in need of some TLC. I was pleasantly pleased to see that needle roller bearings are fitted to the bottom assembly with good old balls in the top.
Why is that my bursts of progress always seem to get blighted by a problem?
While assessing if the friction due to the hub dynamo is really as much as an issue as I think it is (and it is!) I could not help but notice that the front disc is badly warped, not surprising for such a thin sliver of metal trying to slow down so much velocity, ha haa.
Are all 180mm discs capable of being interchanged dear readers or do I need to stick with an original, Magura, in this case?
A quick look at the very basic forks showed them in great condition, thanks to its black rubber slider booties, I imagine.
While a final try of the USS bar in position left me a little nervous, especially after some of the impressions I've read on the 'net, it wont stop me, as long as I can figure how on earth the controls are meant to mount, vertically!
Ciao - Frazzled Frank
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Falco Frank
Über Member
- Location
- Oup Norf'
Ebay is a dangerous place to browse....
I started looking for suitable 20" front wheels and gave up before looking for a disc hub with a view to getting the front wheel rebuilt with just a plain hub.
It was going to work out around £70 - £80 to get the wheel rebuilt using the only local shop that I'd trust to do it well.
Then the browsing started....
Sorry to say that I'm going to take an impulsive chance with some Mag wheels. Reviews are mixed but I think its worth a shot:
I started looking for suitable 20" front wheels and gave up before looking for a disc hub with a view to getting the front wheel rebuilt with just a plain hub.
It was going to work out around £70 - £80 to get the wheel rebuilt using the only local shop that I'd trust to do it well.
Then the browsing started....
Sorry to say that I'm going to take an impulsive chance with some Mag wheels. Reviews are mixed but I think its worth a shot:
andytheflyer
Guru
- Location
- South Cheshire
I may be wrong, but my thread on tyres to replace M+ tyres told me that the 451 wheels have a very limited choice of tyres. Have a look at that thread b4 you commit !
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/what-20-and-26-tyres-to-change-to-from-marathon-plus.179508/
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/what-20-and-26-tyres-to-change-to-from-marathon-plus.179508/
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Falco Frank
Über Member
- Location
- Oup Norf'
Thanks Andy, never thought of that, my 'bent was supplied with spare 451 tyres so I thought they were still common 
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Falco Frank
Über Member
- Location
- Oup Norf'
I've been used to motorbike tyres all my life but cant help be confused over what I thought were 'simple' 20" tyres....
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pattle/ddgcs/tyres.htm
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pattle/ddgcs/tyres.htm
neil earley
Guru
- Location
- Neath
Got to say them wheels look nice!
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Falco Frank
Über Member
- Location
- Oup Norf'
Here we go:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271869859346
Novatech hubs get variable write-ups but at least the wheels themselves 'appear' to be certified.
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Falco Frank
Über Member
- Location
- Oup Norf'
Gotta get my bike on the road again asap - I miss it already!
and costing money. Used crankset on the way to try, 52/40/30 which sounds much better than my existing.
I've determined I can try the USS with the over seat steering still in place but it means the quill adapter will be sticking out a little past its minimum requirement, I'm not too concerned as lots of metal is still inside the stem and I wont be going crazy with two sets of bars installed (controls will be staying on the over seat bar until I scare myself too much one way or another). The 451 alloys are on the way and Thanks to Cunobelin and the Small tyre shop a new Durrango tyre too. A used but very sound 180mm front rotor arrived today but I might fit that to the new front wheel if the timings all come together of if not, when impatience bites me.
I want the bike to be as mechanically efficient as I can make it so that I KNOW that any deficiency I want to consider is down to me and nothing else.
Its funny, the things that filter through ones mind during a nightshift
and costing money. Used crankset on the way to try, 52/40/30 which sounds much better than my existing.
I've determined I can try the USS with the over seat steering still in place but it means the quill adapter will be sticking out a little past its minimum requirement, I'm not too concerned as lots of metal is still inside the stem and I wont be going crazy with two sets of bars installed (controls will be staying on the over seat bar until I scare myself too much one way or another). The 451 alloys are on the way and Thanks to Cunobelin and the Small tyre shop a new Durrango tyre too. A used but very sound 180mm front rotor arrived today but I might fit that to the new front wheel if the timings all come together of if not, when impatience bites me.
I want the bike to be as mechanically efficient as I can make it so that I KNOW that any deficiency I want to consider is down to me and nothing else.
Its funny, the things that filter through ones mind during a nightshift
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