According to my reliable source, quite likely.Didn't Beryl Burton use a 62/13 combination?
According to my reliable source, quite likely.Didn't Beryl Burton use a 62/13 combination?
We are talking about a typical time trial course, which is fairly flat.
On most TT courses likelihood is you'd quickly get on top of 48x17 and struggle to maintain cadence for the duration- depending on the sort of speed you might achieve. 48 x 17 is roughly 74" (assuming 700c/ typical tyre) and at 20 mph cadence would be around 91 rpm, 25 mph about 114 rpm, 30 mph about 137 rpm.
Apparently, the legendary Beryl Burton often rode a 56 with an 11as the small cog on her freewheel
I have a lovely 48x16 which is a joy to ride, for me, on flat manchester roads - a little power to get going and then spins along nicely, and can even honk up some inclines if necessary. However it's on horizontal dropouts for chain tensioning, and I can just about get the wheel nuts tight enough to stay true. How on earth do you people riding even bigger gears manage to keep the wheel axle from sliding in the dropouts? Or are you not on horizontal, and if so how do you keep chain tension ok? Or do you just not try full power to pull away?
I've never had a problem with horizontal drop outs. Only ocasionally slips when I've just changed the wheel and clearly didn't tighten enough.How on earth do you people riding even bigger gears manage to keep the wheel axle from sliding in the dropouts?
Are you using proper track wheel nuts, where the base washer revolves independently around the nut?I have a lovely 48x16 which is a joy to ride, for me, on flat manchester roads - a little power to get going and then spins along nicely, and can even honk up some inclines if necessary. However it's on horizontal dropouts for chain tensioning, and I can just about get the wheel nuts tight enough to stay true. How on earth do you people riding even bigger gears manage to keep the wheel axle from sliding in the dropouts? Or are you not on horizontal, and if so how do you keep chain tension ok? Or do you just not try full power to pull away?
Trouble is that some axles aren't long enough so don't protrude enough / not enough thread, to allow "high" nuts / insert washers.Are you using proper track wheel nuts, where the base washer revolves independently around the nut?
Common practice to tension the chain and centre the wheel, was to walk the wheel into position with a process of tightening and untightening of the wheel nuts, whilst moving the wheel into the correct position.
https://www.velodrome.shop/track-wheel-nuts/velodrome-shop-track-wheel-nuts-rear/
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