Single Speed - Really high gears

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swee'pea99

Legendary Member
We are talking about a typical time trial course, which is fairly flat.

On most TT courses likelihood is you'd quickly get on top of 48x17 and struggle to maintain cadence for the duration- depending on the sort of speed you might achieve. 48 x 17 is roughly 74" (assuming 700c/ typical tyre) and at 20 mph cadence would be around 91 rpm, 25 mph about 114 rpm, 30 mph about 137 rpm.

Right. That makes sense. I'm talking about my daily bike, for getting round, including a lot of stop & starting and a fair few proper hills. I live on one. At the bottom. And start pretty much every ride by going up. I can imagine that getting your head down and just going for it on the flat would be a whole different ball game. And that I would want higher, for that. (In my current daily ride I will seldom go much above 20, and that not for long. I can't do 30, and I accept that. I just can't pedal that fast!)

Still,
Apparently, the legendary Beryl Burton often rode a 56 with an 11as the small cog on her freewheel

:eek: :notworthy:

"It's a woman, Jim, but not as we know them."
 

biking_fox

Guru
Location
Manchester
I have a lovely 48x16 which is a joy to ride, for me, on flat manchester roads - a little power to get going and then spins along nicely, and can even honk up some inclines if necessary. However it's on horizontal dropouts for chain tensioning, and I can just about get the wheel nuts tight enough to stay true. How on earth do you people riding even bigger gears manage to keep the wheel axle from sliding in the dropouts? Or are you not on horizontal, and if so how do you keep chain tension ok? Or do you just not try full power to pull away?
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
I have a lovely 48x16 which is a joy to ride, for me, on flat manchester roads - a little power to get going and then spins along nicely, and can even honk up some inclines if necessary. However it's on horizontal dropouts for chain tensioning, and I can just about get the wheel nuts tight enough to stay true. How on earth do you people riding even bigger gears manage to keep the wheel axle from sliding in the dropouts? Or are you not on horizontal, and if so how do you keep chain tension ok? Or do you just not try full power to pull away?
1635168196898.png
chain tugs / tensioners

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OP
OP
Sharky

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
How on earth do you people riding even bigger gears manage to keep the wheel axle from sliding in the dropouts?
I've never had a problem with horizontal drop outs. Only ocasionally slips when I've just changed the wheel and clearly didn't tighten enough.

I don't think a bigger gear would increase the risk of slippage. If there is a math or physics expert in the house, they might have a better understanding, but I would think the chances of slippage would increase in a lower gear, as you would have greater leverage, therefore able to apply more force to the rear wheel?
 

GuyBoden

Guru
Location
Warrington
I have a lovely 48x16 which is a joy to ride, for me, on flat manchester roads - a little power to get going and then spins along nicely, and can even honk up some inclines if necessary. However it's on horizontal dropouts for chain tensioning, and I can just about get the wheel nuts tight enough to stay true. How on earth do you people riding even bigger gears manage to keep the wheel axle from sliding in the dropouts? Or are you not on horizontal, and if so how do you keep chain tension ok? Or do you just not try full power to pull away?
Are you using proper track wheel nuts, where the base washer revolves independently around the nut?

Common practice to tension the chain and centre the wheel, was to walk the wheel into position with a process of tightening and untightening of the wheel nuts, whilst moving the wheel into the correct position.

https://www.velodrome.shop/track-wheel-nuts/velodrome-shop-track-wheel-nuts-rear/

vsnut-rr.jpg
 
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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Back to the OP - 20 mph average - they are big gears. My fixed was about 76" but that was my commuter, but I could do 20 mph average with that gear.

Even TT'ing looking at the gear charts for me , I wasn't pushing more than mid 90's on the flat on a geared bike when in my yoof. Even now I'd roll along mid 20's mph in an 80 inch gear.
 

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
Are you using proper track wheel nuts, where the base washer revolves independently around the nut?

Common practice to tension the chain and centre the wheel, was to walk the wheel into position with a process of tightening and untightening of the wheel nuts, whilst moving the wheel into the correct position.

https://www.velodrome.shop/track-wheel-nuts/velodrome-shop-track-wheel-nuts-rear/

View attachment 615253
Trouble is that some axles aren't long enough so don't protrude enough / not enough thread, to allow "high" nuts / insert washers.
 
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