Tubeless tyres

[rideswithmoobs]

new bike comes with.........

WTB STp i29 29mm wide TCS rims combined with 2.4" high volume TCS Tubeless tyres give the 2017 905 more grip so the rider can push the bike even harder. To give extra front end grip we have specced a High-Grip compound tyre.

So I'm taking it they are already tubeless, sealed and no inner tube. What's the advantage and if I do get a puncture is it any different to a normal tyre to remove with it being sealed ? Or am I missing the point completely

 

[S-Express]

So I'm taking it they are already tubeless, sealed and no inner tube. What's the advantage and if I do get a puncture is it any different to a normal tyre to remove with it being sealed ? Or am I missing the point completely

Firstly, there's no guarantee that the tyres are already mounted tubeless - most simply come as 'tubeless ready' but with inner tubes fitted. If you get a puncture, you only need to remove the tyre if it is going in the bin. There's no tube to change and in principle, the tyre should reseal itself anyway, so might only need a bit of air.

 

[Andrew_P]

My bet is that they are tubeless ready and will have a clincher and tube fitted.

 

[rideswithmoobs]

I just checked WTB website and TCS is Tubeless compatible system. What do I need to do to convert to tubeless ?

Suppose I could ask LBS to do it before I collect next week

 

[Andrew_P]

Tubeless Valve, Tubeless Tyre and some sealant. Some wheels will need tubeless tape still to cover spoke holes depends on the wheel I have a set of Fulcrums that didn't and a set of Stans Notubes wheels that did.

I run them on my road bikes and won't ever go back to inner tubes, but some hate them. With that size tyre they will be a walk in the park to repair if you had too with tubeless patch at the roadside. 700c and 23mm tyres is a bit more difficult!

To put into context I have done 10k miles and only once had a ride stopped for a puncture that wouldn't repair itself.

 

[rideswithmoobs]

Tubeless Valve, Tubeless Tyre and some sealant. Some wheels will need tubeless tape still to cover spoke holes depends on the wheel I have a set of Fulcrums that didn't and a set of Stans Notubes wheels that did.

I run them on my road bikes and won't ever go back to inner tubes, but some hate them. With that size tyre they will be a walk in the park to repair if you had too with tubeless patch at the roadside. 700c and 23mm tyres is a bit more difficult!

To put into context I have done 10k miles and only once had a ride stopped for a puncture that wouldn't repair itself.

So the tyre and rim will be tubeless ready and in effect I will just possibly need tubeless tape and definitely sealant ?
I may give shop a call and ask them to convert it before I collect after I do a bit more research. Thanks for info

 

[rideswithmoobs]

Gave shop a call and they explained pretty much the same, it's personal choice. Going to run tubes for first 6 weeks then when it's booked in for its 6 week check up switch it over if I want for about 30 quid. Seems a reasonable idea unless anyone can give overwhelming reason to just go tubeless immediately ?

 

[smutchin]

What's the advantage

Last week, I was riding a bike with 32c 'Tubeless Ready' tyres at 70psi – beautifully plush on most surfaces, but on one particularly poor stretch of road I let some air out to make them even plusher. Unfortunately, I then hit a stone that caused a pinch puncture. If I'd been running them tubeless, this wouldn't have happened.

That's the main advantage - lower pressures with no risk of pinch punctures.

Also supposedly lower rolling resistance because there's no friction between inner tube and tyre.

 

[S-Express]

That's the main advantage - lower pressures with no risk of pinch punctures.

Agreed, however:

The lower you go on pressure, the higher the risk of tyre bead and rim becoming separated momentarily, allowing air to escape.

 

[rideswithmoobs]

Last week, I was riding a bike with 32c 'Tubeless Ready' tyres at 70psi – beautifully plush on most surfaces, but on one particularly poor stretch of road I let some air out to make them even plusher. Unfortunately, I then hit a stone that caused a pinch puncture. If I'd been running them tubeless, this wouldn't have happened.

That's the main advantage - lower pressures with no risk of pinch punctures.

Also supposedly lower rolling resistance because there's no friction between inner tube and tyre.

Riding off road on an MTB tubeless would be more of an advantage then ? All my riding is going to be on the trails in Lake District, North Yorkshire

 

[smutchin]

Riding off road on an MTB tubeless would be more of an advantage then ?

Oh yeah - sorry, I just assumed you were talking about a road bike because tubeless is still a new thing on road bikes, but it's been popular on MTBs for years.

MTB isn't my area of expertise but the benefits of tubeless are much more obvious offroad, where you want lower tyre pressure for better grip.

 

[Andrew_P]

double post!

 

[rideswithmoobs]

double post!

?

 

[Andrew_P]

?

That's weird it appeared twice -


That very much depends on the rim, all my rims even when the tyre have been on them for as little as 150 miles when you let all the air out the tyre bead is still pretty much snapped in to the ridge and take a fair bit of pressing off with a satisfying snap sound the same as you should get when inflating.

I have run 30c S-Ones at 40psi and never had an issue, they held that air for a week before topping up a bit

 

[bjellys]

I have gone tubeless on my 3 mtb's I did use stans tape on the first rim but I didn't like it (it just doesn't stretch and is not easy to fit smoothly ) so I now use
Gorilla tape handy roll 25 mm roll Black which I buy at Toolstation http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80306?table=no
I find the Gorrilla tape easy and neat to fit I then pierce a small hole in it where the valve hole is and fit the tubeless valve fit the tyre with plenty of soapy water and blow the tyre up.
Once blown up I then let the ir out and break the bead and open the tyre jut enough to get the Stans fluid in rotate the tyre 180 and refit the tyre then inflate again.

Here is a video of how to do it

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q89NTR2yNyc