Working on your own bike

[Lookrider]

People whinge about modern tech being too complicated but have never really taken the time to experience and understand it - they just assume it is and come up with utter garbage muttering "marketing" etc. But it isn't any more complicated at all and often actually easier to maintain.

For example: Di2 and eTap are easier to adjust than mechanical because they allow for electronic micro-adjusting. I can simply hold a button on my eTap brake levers and micro-adjust if necessary whilst riding.

Changing brake pads for a disc braked bike is no more difficult than for a rim braked bike.

Swopping cassettes, chains etc are easy too. Chains now have 'powerlinks' etc which make installation even easier than before.

Tubeless? Easy. Trick? After installing the rim tape properly, not allowing any gaps, put the tyre on the rim and run a tyre lever halfway on one side to partially seat it onto the edge of the rim. Repeat on the opposite side. Do this and you can inflate the tyre without the need of a compressor./ Airsoft etc and leaks from not putting in sufficient air to seat the tyre properly is avoided. I've got 5 pairs of tubeless wheels, all done myself, all no hassle at all.

I use Park Tools including their repair stand and can highly recommend them (plus their videos as mentioned by another Poster above if you need help) but there are many alternatives. With the correct tools, all bicycle-related work is not difficult at all. Keep a bike in good order and none of the problems an incorrectly maintained bike will throw up such as seized components etc will be an issue.

Can you please go into a little more detail on how you get the tubeless tyres on ....I'm always keen to try hacks to make this easier as I am doing just that now
Last tip I read was to start opposite the valve ...get the tyre rims in the channel then get one side in before moving to the other side ( maybe a different thread to this one ,,sorry )

 

[Alex321]

If I want to adjust my gears on the move (not that I ever do once they're set) I can twiddle the cable adjusters on the down tube. I wouldn't even consider electric gears because of the prospect of being stranded in the middle of nowhere if a battery goes flat or a push button stops working, and because they're completely unnecessary. Not to mention mollycoddling the batteries whilst the bike's not in use. A big problem with batteries is that you can never be quite sure what the capacity is unless you allow them to run flat occasionally, and if you do that it rather defeats the point.

I've never ridden with electonic gears. I'd like to, but I'm not sure I can justify the £930 cost that is the cheapest I have seen for a 105 di2 groupset, as an upgrade from my current 105 11-speed mechanical.

But what I do know is that every single person I know who has had electronic shifting has said it is a big improvement. I don't know anybody who has regretted the decision to go for it, though the numbers I know who have it is relatively small.

 

[Jody]

Since the OP didn't want to play/chat, do you think internal cabling and pressfit bottom brackets are more or less complicated than the technology they replaced?

Not sure you could get much easier than a push fit BB.

 

[DogmaStu]

I don't find adjusting mechanical gears difficult in the slightest. How can something be easier than already easy?

It might be quicker, it might take less effort, but I'd question it being easier.

It is easy! But it is even easier if you can do it on the fly...

 

[Ming the Merciless]

For example: Di2 and eTap are easier to adjust than mechanical because they allow for electronic micro-adjusting.

Presumably with electronic I can choose between 8 to 12 speed at the click of a button. For instance if I need to swap wheels quickly and can’t get one of exactly the same speed?

Thus almost as easy as my friction shifting.

 

[DogmaStu]

Well the OP posit is/was that "[Despite some . . believing that a bicycle is a hugely complicated machine . . . I assure you that it is . . . quite simple."
"modern tech . . . isn't any more complicated" Is this your rational belief?
You are introducing the "TOO" complicated assertion.
Is electronic shifting "complicated"? Well it's certainly more complicated than mechanical.
A hydraulic braking system is prima facie more complicated, compared to one operated by cables (either disc or rim) (TRP Spyres ftw)
Noone has suggested that "Swopping (sic) cassettes, chains" is complicated or difficult: strawman
Is installing a tubeless tyre complicated? Well, if installing one with a tube is easy then tubeless is harder and takes longer(investment of time). Does allow a tyre insert though, which I can't use with a tube.
Since the OP didn't want to play/chat, do you think internal cabling and pressfit bottom brackets are more or less complicated than the technology they replaced? Have you replaced 'cartridge' bearings in your hubs? Did you find that easier or more complicated than cup and cone? Bonus question: did you enjoy maintaining cottered cranks?

Nope, disagree. E-shifting has a battery but the same number of adjustment screws and is fitted and adjusted the same way. In Sram's case is completely wireless - ergo, less complicated. Plus you get to micro-adjust at the press of a button. More convenient.

Hydraulics can be more complicated but they aren't difficult.

The Thread is about "working on your own bike" so no strawmen in my comments, merely adding to the theme.

I've not had any issues with internal cabling on my Trek Madone SLR. I've not had a problem with pressfit BB's either. Why do you think they are an issue?

Cottered cranks? Do you think I'm that old? Never owned a bike that had them so never an issue for me. We're talking about working on bikes that we own and my experience is with high-end bikes from the 1980's to present.

 

[DogmaStu]

Presumably with electronic I can choose between 8 to 12 speed at the click of a button. For instance if I need to swap wheels quickly and can’t get one of exactly the same speed?

Thus almost as easy as my friction shifting.

Why would I want to?

My point remains: working on YOUR OWN bike is not terribly difficult. No bike is very difficult to master.

 

[Alex321]

Presumably with electronic I can choose between 8 to 12 speed at the click of a button. For instance if I need to swap wheels quickly and can’t get one of exactly the same speed?

Thus almost as easy as my friction shifting.

Why presume anything so silly?

Just because the maintenance is easier doesn't mean you can magically make it do things it was never designed to do.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Why presume anything so silly?

Just because the maintenance is easier doesn't mean you can magically make it do things it was never designed to do.

Switching speeds isn’t silly. If it can microadjust then why the hell not adjust how much it moves each button press? Nothing magic about it, unless you live in the 13th century.

 

[DogmaStu]

Can you please go into a little more detail on how you get the tubeless tyres on ....I'm always keen to try hacks to make this easier as I am doing just that now
Last tip I read was to start opposite the valve ...get the tyre rims in the channel then get one side in before moving to the other side ( maybe a different thread to this one ,,sorry )

1. Ensure the rim tape and valve are fitted correctly. No tears, no air gaps, firmly set.
2. Place the tyre on the rim. Tyre centred in the channel.
3. Using a plastic tyre lever, run it around halfway pulling the tyre bead to the edge of the rim. Do not go over the rim. Repeat this on the opposite side. This is a simple step that is largely ignored by many but often used by those who race and need to change tyres quickly without compressors etc. It partially seats the tubeless tyre on the rim edge making it easier to 'pop' the rest of the way into a fully seated position with less air force.
4. Remove the valve core. Inject the sealant using an injector tool - such as the Park Tool version or similar.
5. You can now pump up the tyre to seat it with the valve core removed for greater air volume but this shouldn't be necessary if step 3 was successful.
5. Valve core inserted, pump the tyre to preferred volume.

If this hasn't worked, the issue is generally due to air escaping from an incorrectly seated valve stem or rim tape but all done correctly, is works really well.

 

[DogmaStu]

Switching speeds isn’t silly. If it can microadjust then why the hell not adjust how much it moves each button press? Nothing magic about it, unless you live in the 13th century.

It does move with each button press, left or right depending upon what you decide. I find this particularly useful with changing wheels with different cassettes: 11-30 to 11-34, for example, where they are both 12spd but cog spacings are minutely different. The micro-adjust ability solves the issue of any need to break out the allen keys. Ergo, an improvement over the equivalent mechanical that I have too with another bike.

 

[Lookrider]

1. Ensure the rim tape and valve are fitted correctly. No tears, no air gaps, firmly set.
2. Place the tyre on the rim. Tyre centred in the channel.
3. Using a plastic tyre lever, run it around halfway pulling the tyre bead to the edge of the rim. Do not go over the rim. Repeat this on the opposite side. This is a simple step that is largely ignored by many but often used by those who race and need to change tyres quickly without compressors etc. It partially seats the tubeless tyre on the rim edge making it easier to 'pop' the rest of the way into a fully seated position with less air force.
4. Remove the valve core. Inject the sealant using an injector tool - such as the Park Tool version or similar.
5. You can now pump up the tyre to seat it with the valve core removed for greater air volume but this shouldn't be necessary if step 3 was successful.
5. Valve core inserted, pump the tyre to preferred volume.

If this hasn't worked, the issue is generally due to air escaping from an incorrectly seated valve stem or rim tape but all done correctly, is works really well.

Thanks for this
But to confirm part 3
If say the valve is at 12oc
You seat one side from 3oc to 9oc
Then seat the opposite bead 3pc to 9oc
Therefore the two rims either side from 9oc to 12oc to 3oc are just in the wheel rim either in the channel or near the rim edge ??? Then procede to stage 4 etc
Thanks for your patience
( You know how it is with advice on tubeless ).

 

[CAESAR AVGVSTVS]

I've never ridden with electonic gears. I'd like to, but I'm not sure I can justify the £930 cost that is the cheapest I have seen for a 105 di2 groupset, as an upgrade from my current 105 11-speed mechanical.

But what I do know is that every single person I know who has had electronic shifting has said it is a big improvement. I don't know anybody who has regretted the decision to go for it, though the numbers I know who have it is relatively small.

When I first purchased my Specilized Tarmac I was a bit concerned it had electronic gears. A year on and I’ll never go back to cable shifters. I have mine programmed for when I change to the granny ring the rear will automatically adjust by two gears, thus I’m at near the same cadence.
At the weekend I was behind a bunch of guys and we were travelling down hill and about to go up a 6% uphill. I could have carried on up the hill but was stuck behind these guys that were so busy changing their gears I almost came to a stop.
Electronic gears are the way forward.

 

[Dogtrousers]

When I first purchased my Specilized Tarmac I was a bit concerned it had electronic gears. A year on and I’ll never go back to cable shifters. I have mine programmed for when I change to the granny ring the rear will automatically adjust by two gears, thus I’m at near the same cadence.
At the weekend I was behind a bunch of guys and we were travelling down hill and about to go up a 6% uphill. I could have carried on up the hill but was stuck behind these guys that were so busy changing their gears I almost came to a stop.
Electronic gears are the way forward.

This reminds me of something that happened to me years ago.

I came to quite a steep hill and was faffing around with my gears when I heard a crash behind me. A rider (who I did not know) had slowed so much behind me he'd fallen off. My first instinct was to check if he was OK but as he was shouting insults at me (seemingly it was my fault he'd fallen off) I decided against it. He later passed me on the hill without a word, which suited me.

 

[steverob]

Some would have your believe that a bicycle is a hugely complicated machine, and you should always take it to a bike shop. I assure you that it is not. For anyone that grew up on a farm, they are quite simple.

Is the growing up on a farm part mandatory to being able to fix a bike?

You could also just accept that some people are not mechanically minded or capable. I am virtually useless with my hands and no amount of YouTube videos about bike maintenance will enable me to suddenly overcome my deficiencies - in fact I have tried many times before and usually ended up making things worse.

But I can do all sorts of clever things with computers and I probably run rings round most people in that area, but I have no desire to berate others for their lack of knowledge in my field of choice, telling them how simple everything is really if only they realised. Everyone has their skills and there is no shame in passing on a problem to an expert rather than struggling with it yourself.