Quill stem jammed

[Andy in Germany]

Yesterday while working on my touring bike I discovered the Quill stem wedge had jammed in the forks, probably due to rust, as the screw fitted without any problem. The bike is usable as long as I don't want to move the bars up and down but it'll need fixing in the long term. So far I have formulated the following plans to deal with the problem:

1: Violence; hitting the screw with a Big Hammer. This was attempted yesterday with no success; I gave up because I didn't want to damage the screw.
2: More violence: Remove forks, turn upside down on hard surface, and apply metal rod and Bigger Hammer.
3: Drill out the wedge with increasingly large drill bits until it breaks or falls out.
4: Replace forks; the bike is due for a respray anyway so this would be done during the respraying.

Any other suggestions?

 

[Kevberlin]

You may find this useful. This chap is hands on with bike issues. He has another video explaining how NOT to remove a frozen stem. Good luck

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8b4t42wiJpQ


Kev

 

[Spiderweb]

Get some penetrating oil in there and leave to soak for a day or two.

 

[Windle]

I would agree with the penetrating oil, then screw the stem partly back in (but leaving enough room so the screw has room to move) then 'tapping' with a hammer, with a solid block of wood in between to avoid screw head mangleage. It could be bimetallic corrosion though so penetrating oil may not have the desired effect. Coincidently the same has happened with my old Trek 810, the one I'm trying to get a new stem for, and despite having had bikes with quill stems for years I've never seen this happen before. Let us know how you get on.

 

[Sharky]

An alternative strategy, is to convert to an ahead type stem.

Leave the stuck wedge where it is and use one of the quill/ahead adapters. As long as it can be inserted below the minimum mark, should be OK. You will incur the costs of a new stem and handle bars, but if you have these already in your parts bin, won't cost that much.

Did this on my daughter's MTB, when I wanted to claim it for a week of snow about 15 years ago. Since been donated to a club mate.

 

[tyred]

Tighten the expander bolt again and turn the bike upside down. They fill the steerer with diesel and give it a few days to week to penetrate and try again.

 

[Gillstay]

Get some penetrating oil in there and leave to soak for a day or two.

Agreed, but buy some good stuff such as the Bilt hammer one or Sea foam has a good name. Not WD40.

 

[fossyant]

TNT !

 

[Ian H]

I'm a bit confused as to whether the stem is stuck or, as you say, the wedge is stuck (which is very unusual). If it's just the wedge, loosen the screw so it's proud of the stem then hit it hard with a hammer (a piece of wood between if you are worried about the screw). I've never known this not to release the wedge.

 

[presta]

If you put a washer that's large enough to span across the end of the steerer tube under the head of the bolt you can use it as a puller to remove the wedge.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

I can vouch for @Ian H 's method. Hammer and piece of wood.

 

[EckyH]

If the "soak it with penetrating oil and try to persuade it to come out with tapping" suggestion doesn't work then imho it's worth a try to soak the problem in cola - a method that we used in the local bike shop round about 20 years ago with some success.
Good luck.

E.

 

[Windle]

The quill to a-head converter is what I'm doing with the Trek 810 which has the stuck wedge. Spurred on by this thread (and having finally got hold of the converter wotsit) I had another go last night ~ the wedge is stuck fast down the steerer. No amount of belting the screw with a hammer would get it free. It's moved down the steerer but I'm now out of travel with the screw. Peering down the tube it seems like the wedge is on the p#ss slightly, which is maybe why it's stuck. I eventually gave up and after spraying various lubricants down the steerer left it overnight. I'm going to take the fork out later and try presta's method with the big washer, but pulling it out from the bottom as it's so far down. My converter wouldn't go down far enough hence the need to remove the old wedge. I did try screwing the new converter into the old stuck wedge but couldn't be sure it was lined up properly.

 

[richardfm]

The quill to a-head converter is what I'm doing with the Trek 810 which has the stuck wedge. Spurred on by this thread (and having finally got hold of the converter wotsit) I had another go last night ~ the wedge is stuck fast down the steerer. No amount of belting the screw with a hammer would get it free. It's moved down the steerer but I'm now out of travel with the screw. Peering down the tube it seems like the wedge is on the p#ss slightly, which is maybe why it's stuck. I eventually gave up and after spraying various lubricants down the steerer left it overnight. I'm going to take the fork out later and try presta's method with the big washer, but pulling it out from the bottom as it's so far down. My converter wouldn't go down far enough hence the need to remove the old wedge. I did try screwing the new converter into the old stuck wedge but couldn't be sure it was lined up properly.

You should be soaking it in a penetrating/release fluid such as Plusgas, not lubricants.

 

[MichaelW2]

You didn't specify the stuck materials.
Is the alu quill stuck in steel steerer tube.
Steel quill stuck in steel steerer.
Alu quill stuck in alu steerer.
Steel quill stuck in alu steerer!