Ootini
Senior Member
- Location
- North Wales
Right, sorry - toeing the pads in is setting them so that the side the wheel rotates into strikes the rim first. (I always think "heeling in" would make more sense). I set mine by using a strip of card between rim and the front edge of the pads, usually after I've lined the pads up satisfactorily.I've just had a quick look at a youTube vid on fitting VBrake pads and it didn't mention anything about "toeing". I understand lining the pad up and adjusting the spring tension, but could you explain toeing, and how it's done?
Brake pads should be toed in to take all the flex out of the pivots and in the arms so that the pad is flush when braking force is applied, this stops juddering and squeal and the pads will wear flush (and keep the toe-in) if done right.Right, sorry - toeing the pads in is setting them so that the side the wheel rotates into strikes the rim first. (I always think "heeling in" would make more sense). I set mine by using a strip of card between rim and the front edge of the pads, usually after I've lined the pads up satisfactorily.
I'm a one thickness fan meself but that's using Deore and yep nose in at the front and space the REAR out with cardboard.The leading edge of the block should touch the rim first! ie the front of the block as the bike faces! Two thickness's of the card they come with is usually enough for measuring the toe-in.
Brake pads should be toed in to take all the flex out of the pivots and in the arms so that the pad is flush when braking force is applied, this stops juddering and squeal and the pads will wear flush (and keep the toe-in) if done right.
Visit Sheldon Brown's website at Retro Raleighs for more info.
That worked with (and still does) leather fronted brake blocks on STEEL rims, it wipes the water off first.Gah! I was told to do the heeling in to help clear gunk from the rim as the brake was applied. The more you know, eh? (@Ootini - listen to the other two posters re: toe in, as I've been doing it wrong!)