Brake pads

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Ootini

Senior Member
Location
North Wales
I'm looking at replacing the pads on my cx bike. It's fitted with V-Brakes and I was wondering, are all v-brake pads universal, or do I need more info before buying some?
Evans lists V-Brake pads as "MTB V-Brakes", is this the correct type of pad for my bike even though it's not an MTB?
 

John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
Mostly, the difference is in whether the pad is mounted in a holder or not.

These are not;
http://www.fibrax.com/rim-pads/mtb/complete-blocks/fibrax-v-brake-blocks-xtreme

These are;
http://www.fibrax.com/rim-pads/mtb/holders-inserts/v-brake-holders-2-pairs-of-inserts-xtreme

There are differences in this type of pad when mounted to cantilever brakes (there are smooth post and threaded post types) but I think only threaded post types are used in V brakes (the pad is secured by a fastener on the post, not by one on the brake that clamps the post in place).

"MTB" pads should be fine - but compare the above with the pads fitted to your bike to be sure. My personal preference is for holders and inserts for this type of brake (once the holders are set up, you just replace the insert, with no need to retoe the pads &c) but the up front cost is greater.
 
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Ootini

Ootini

Senior Member
Location
North Wales
Thanks for that.

I've just had a quick look at a youTube vid on fitting VBrake pads and it didn't mention anything about "toeing". I understand lining the pad up and adjusting the spring tension, but could you explain toeing, and how it's done?

Also, from memory, the pads on my bike look like the pads in the first link you provided, i.e not in a holder.
 

John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
I've just had a quick look at a youTube vid on fitting VBrake pads and it didn't mention anything about "toeing". I understand lining the pad up and adjusting the spring tension, but could you explain toeing, and how it's done?
Right, sorry - toeing the pads in is setting them so that the side the wheel rotates into strikes the rim first. (I always think "heeling in" would make more sense). I set mine by using a strip of card between rim and the front edge of the pads, usually after I've lined the pads up satisfactorily.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Right, sorry - toeing the pads in is setting them so that the side the wheel rotates into strikes the rim first. (I always think "heeling in" would make more sense). I set mine by using a strip of card between rim and the front edge of the pads, usually after I've lined the pads up satisfactorily.
Brake pads should be toed in to take all the flex out of the pivots and in the arms so that the pad is flush when braking force is applied, this stops juddering and squeal and the pads will wear flush (and keep the toe-in) if done right.
Visit Sheldon Brown's website at Retro Raleighs for more info.
 

Brommyboy

Über Member
Location
Rugby
The leading edge of the block should touch the rim first! ie the front of the block as the bike faces! Two thickness's of the card they come with is usually enough for measuring the toe-in.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
The leading edge of the block should touch the rim first! ie the front of the block as the bike faces! Two thickness's of the card they come with is usually enough for measuring the toe-in.
I'm a one thickness fan meself but that's using Deore and yep nose in at the front and space the REAR out with cardboard.
 

John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
Brake pads should be toed in to take all the flex out of the pivots and in the arms so that the pad is flush when braking force is applied, this stops juddering and squeal and the pads will wear flush (and keep the toe-in) if done right.
Visit Sheldon Brown's website at Retro Raleighs for more info.

Gah! I was told to do the heeling in to help clear gunk from the rim as the brake was applied. The more you know, eh? (@Ootini - listen to the other two posters re: toe in, as I've been doing it wrong!)
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Gah! I was told to do the heeling in to help clear gunk from the rim as the brake was applied. The more you know, eh? (@Ootini - listen to the other two posters re: toe in, as I've been doing it wrong!)
That worked with (and still does) leather fronted brake blocks on STEEL rims, it wipes the water off first.
 
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