Brakes blocks

[bianco]

I've recently posted regarding brakes, and thanks to the guys here I've settled on a pair of 105's, very stylish I admit.

Now I want some decent blocks to go in them, I use kool stop salmon on my fixed gear and have no major gripes, except they're starting to under-perform after only one month, which isn't really acceptable considering the cost.

These blocks aren't going to be used on a fixed gear!

Can anybody recommend any other block that aren't going to trash my new rims yet offer a significant performance, or will I have to compromise pad longevity for rim longevity?

I hope somebody has the answer.

Cheers

Martin

 

[Jacomus-rides-Gen]

I've just put new (very sexy, and powerful) 105's on my roadbike. I previously had Sora brakes (yuck yuck) but have allways run Dura Ace brake pads. Can't beat -em IMO.

 

[jashburnham]

Swisstop pads are excellent. Or you could try the Koolstop dual compounds which are harder wearing than the salmon with some of the wet weather benefits.

 

[PrettyboyTim]

Say... How long do other people's brake blocks tend to last? And do you find there's much difference between the wear on the back and front pads?

I just had to change my rear pads again. It had got to that stage where the rear brakes were completely ineffective because it was basically the metal base of the pad wearing down my wheel rim . I had thought that they would wear back to the moulding line on the pads, but evidently that wasn't the case, which meant that whenever I'd visually inspected them whilst they were still on the bike, I'd thought that they were fine.

 

[Bigtallfatbloke]

I changed mine recently. The front one was much more worn than the rear one. I had done over 3500 miles on them.

 

[walker]

Say... How long do other people's brake blocks tend to last? And do you find there's much difference between the wear on the back and front pads?

I just had to change my rear pads again. It had got to that stage where the rear brakes were completely ineffective because it was basically the metal base of the pad wearing down my wheel rim . I had thought that they would wear back to the moulding line on the pads, but evidently that wasn't the case, which meant that whenever I'd visually inspected them whilst they were still on the bike, I'd thought that they were fine.

you should change your pads oncethe perforations have gone or nearly gone. (As far as I am aware)
Pads last for as long as you use them, if you live in a hilly area and use your brakes on decending, they will obviously last shorter than someoen who rides flats and haas no traffic.

 

[HLaB]

Just changed the blocks on two of my bikes last week. On the commuter I got just under 1200 out of the rears and 2600 out of the fronts. On my flat bar road bike I got 2100 out of the rears over 2500 out of the fronts (my log doesn't go back that far). Ive never changed the blocks on my road bike, its only done 1k and the brakes are still going strong and its a summer bike.

 

[PrettyboyTim]

Having changed my rear pads at lunchtime, I almost fell off on my way home. One of the first times I used the brake I was slowing to turn right, with my right hand extended to indicate and braking with my left. Having gotten used in the last few days to my rear brake being rather ineffective, I pulled it a lot harder than I needed to and deaccelerated very quickly and unexpectedly. Obviously my weight shifted forwards along with my left hand - the bike swerved momentarily to the right and I almost fell off to the left. Luckily I recovered and continued on my way, unharmed if a little embarassed...

 

[Tynan]

new brakes are deadly, went over the handlebars twice in five minutes after a service once, both emergency stops mind, bless Stoke Newington High Street

I've found lately, with a heavy pannier and going a bit quick that the bike is eating brake pads