To determine exactly what the issue is:
- With the wheel held in the forks, lift the front of the bike and try and move the rim laterally - is there side-to-side play in the hub?
- If yes - with the wheel still in the forks (so the QR is still putting a compressive load on the axle), undo the 2.5mm allen screw on the adjuster collar (should be on the left side of the wheel as you look down from the saddle, it's a black plastic ring passing around the axle) and carefully and gently using a 21 mm spanner, turn the adjusting collar clockwise until you have ONLY JUST removed the side-to-side play in the hub. Do not exert any force at all - as soon as the collar stops turning, stop. Then re-tighten the 2.5 mm locking screw.
- If no / after step 2 - take the wheel out of the bike - turn the wheel spindle between thumb and forefinger - is there any roughness or catching?
- If so, or if the action is either very "free", or very notchy and/ or difficult to move smoothly, the bearings need a rebuild.
The extent of the rebuild you need to do will vary according to what you find.
The extent of the work required defines whether this is a job best left to a retailer or not.
If you are not very experienced, my advice is to take the wheel to a Campagnolo ProShop (listing at
www.campagnolo.com under "Shops") and get them to take a look. If the internal bearing cups are damaged (which if you have ridden the wheel with damaged or loose bearings for any length of time, they may well be), then a ProShop should have the correct drifts and presses to replace these parts - they will in any case be in a position to strip everything down and have a proper look.
Don't be misled by people who tell you that you can get away without the correct tooling to this job - it's true, it can be bodged without the right tools but we regularly have to rescue jobs that have been sent to us by individuals and shops who have tried to shortcut by using the wrong tools for the job. At best it takes a lot longer than it should and at worst, you can end up fatally damaging the hub shell itself, which is not available as a spare.
You can send the wheel(s) to us if you choose. We are pretty busy at the moment but we do have all the parts on hand all the time and have done, since starting at the main Campagnolo Technical and Service Centre in the UK in 2008, scores of hub rebuilds on the higher-end Campag wheels which all use this bearing assembly or variations on it. Costs will vary according to what we find.
If the wheel is out of true (i.e. the bearings are not loose and the rim has side to side or up and down movement, seen most easily when it passes through the brake blocks but make sure you are looking at the rim, not the tyre), that is a Campag ProShop job to true. Shops unfamiliar with the job nearly always forget to hold the spokes still as they try and turn the nipples and forget / don't know that the nipples are loctited so have to be released before they can be turned - and should be re-loctited after the job is done. Again, we have to rescue a fair number of wheels that have been worked on by people who are not familiar with the job. We have 3 pairs in the workshop at this moment in that category, one rear wheel of which has been effectively scrapped by the shop not really knowing what they were doing.
Unworn, and correctly adjusted bearings are an essential pre-requisite of good wheel truing, so any shop worth their salt will check and service the bearings as part of a truing job.
HTH