Cassette Upgrade

[Devonshiredave]

Hi Folks
I wanted to get some advice on choosing between a cassette or new group set. Out on ride on Sunday I hit a hill that totally wiped me out. My mate on his hybrid just carried on up when I ground to a halt.
I'm running an 11-25T cassette with a compact 50/34 chain set.
My rear mech (Microshift Bona) will only run up to a 28T cog. My dilema is: Do I put on a 11-28 cassette and stick with my current set up or go for an 11-32T cassette and change my group set? How much difference is there between 25 and 28 and 28 and 32T? I need more legs for steeper hills as I've been struggling with the current set up. Any advice would be most welcome.
DD.

 

[fossyant]

Depends, as your mate might be a bit fitter. By all means get a bigger cassette, but nothing like bike miles help. Ride more. Simple, lose pounds in weight and save pounds in money.

 

[Ben M]

Try a 28 and then apply rule 5.

 

[Davidc]

Are you physically capable of improving performance? If yes do you have both the time and dedication to do so? If yes then that's the route to take. If either answer is no then start with the cassette then the small chainring.....

 

[BSRU]

It could also be your climbing technique.


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpLXlyan5_8



View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGbu_LptJ3A

 

[andrew_s]

My rear mech (Microshift Bona) will only run up to a 28T cog.

Shimano road rear mechs claim a 28T limit too, but frequently work OK up to 30T, and occasionally up to 32T. It's because the length of the gear hanger on the frame varies a bit, and the 28T limit is for a short one. The only way to be sure is to try it out.
If you want to use a bigger cassette than your mech can cope with, you need to change the rear mech to a mountain bike version, but make sure it's a 9-speed model as the 10-speed Shimano mechs use a non-standard cable pull.

 

[Devonshiredave]

I'm leaning towards Sram kit. They do some pretty good gear and it's interchangeable. I was looking at Rival RD medium cage, cassette, crank set, and maybe FD and Red shifters. I can then always go back to a short cage and 11-25 cassette in the future. Technique definitely something to look at too.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I'm leaning towards Sram kit. They do some pretty good gear and it's interchangeable. I was looking at Rival RD medium cage, cassette, crank set, and maybe FD and Red shifters. I can then always go back to a short cage and 11-25 cassette in the future.

It is your money but it is a little unusual for someone to put Red shifters plus all the rest on a bike that came with Microshift rear mech (which usually indicates it is a low/mid price bike), and all seemingly just for lowering the gearing. I don't see how being able to go back to short cage and a close ratio cluster has anything to do with such a switch either, given otherwise all you need to get lower gear, up to nearly 50% lower in fact, is just a wider ratio cassette which can be up to 36T, a new, longer chain and only if necessary a 9 speed Shimano mtb rear mech, all at a small fraction of the cost. Just saying...

 

[Kbrook]

I changed my cassette from a 11/23 to a 11/28. Massive difference it made to me, couldn't get up anything but now haven't found a hill I can't get up and have been up a couple of biggies in my lowest gear recently. For the cost of just changing cassette I would just do that for now.

 

[Ben M]

I'm leaning towards Sram kit. They do some pretty good gear and it's interchangeable. I was looking at Rival RD medium cage, cassette, crank set, and maybe FD and Red shifters. I can then always go back to a short cage and 11-25 cassette in the future. Technique definitely something to look at too.

Seriously, don't waste your money. Try a 28 tooth rear cassette and ride more.

 

[Rob3rt]

It is your money but it is a little unusual for someone to put Red shifters plus all the rest on a bike that came with Microshift rear mech (which usually indicates it is a low/mid price bike), and all seemingly just for lowering the gearing. I don't see how being able to go back to short cage and a close ratio cluster has anything to do with such a switch either, given otherwise all you need to get lower gear, up to nearly 50% lower in fact, is just a wider ratio cassette which can be up to 36T, a new, longer chain and only if necessary a 9 speed Shimano mtb rear mech, all at a small fraction of the cost. Just saying...

I agree!

Or instead of spending any money at all, you could learn to suffer!

 

[Devonshiredave]

Thanks guys, this is why I joined the forum. A lot of sound advice here. I'll swap out the cassette, take a look at my technique (or lack of it) and keep at it.

 

[the_mikey]

I had once 'upgraded' the rear cassette from 12-25 to 11-32, decided that it was overkill and changed to 11-28, and I'm happy with that.

 

[goody]

I need more legs for steeper hills as I've been struggling with the current set up.

If you're not struggling then you're not trying hard enough. If you are making it to the top without getting off and walking then stick with what you've got. You'll always struggle but the length of time spent struggling will decrease. OTOH a 28 cassette shouldn't break the bank if you want to try one.

 

[Boon 51]

Been here before on this subject so here's my bob's worth.

I couldn't get up a Cat 3 hill on my standard 11-28 cassette so changed to an 11-34 and it made a world of difference but fitness did play a big part as well.
Now sold the road bike and got a hybrid with 48/32 front and a 11-36 rear and its even better still.. I just did a cat 3 hill and it was brill..
So my thinking is.. 60% gearing and 40% for fitness? but you need both to help you.

http://app.strava.com/activities/77882518
PS.. I'm not saying change your bike, but that is what I did of my own choice.