Chain Wear Tool

[Plax]

So I've got one of these little ruler type things to measure the chain wear on my bike (X-tools one from CRC). It hasn't got any instructions with it. Being of the feminine persuation I like to read instructions first. Any pointers for me on what exactly I need to do. It looks straight forward enough so I'll probably struggle .

Also how many thousands of miles does your average chain do if you take moderate care of it? I've done circa 2500 miles on it, it's looking okay but thought I'd start keeping an eye on it (it's my Ultra Galaxy so this chain is still the original one).

 

[4F]

I cannot see an x tools one on there ?

Hust the park one http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5784

 

[e-rider]

You put the little hooked end in a chain link and then see if the other end will fit into a gap in alink. If it does then the chain has stretched too much and it's time for a new one. I'd say that your chain has stretched if you've done that many miles and as a result the entire drive system might be worn.

If this is the case then it means that it's not as simple as just getting a new chain!

Some chains last longer than others - shimano chains seem to wear out very quickly whereas others last ages, so who knows what conditions yours is in. Use the tool to find out!

 

[beanzontoast]

I bought a steel ruler from the pound shop.

 

[Plax]

I cannot see an x tools one on there ?

Hust the park one http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5784

This one;
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10219

 

[Plax]

I'm in my sisters now, so I've snuck on here while she is slaving over the cooker. I totally forgot to check my chain when I got in from work so I'll do it later on tonight.
Fingers crossed that I won't need a new chain or a new chain *and* cassette. The gears haven't been shifting smoothly at the back the last week or so, so I suspect I'll be unlucky.

 

[Bigtwin]

I bought a steel ruler from the pound shop.

Exactly. Chain wear tool - WTF?

 

[Joe24]

My 8 speed would last me a month/1000miles before it needed a new chain.
The chain on my fixed last much longer though.

 

[Yorkshireman]

This one;
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10219

Er ... The instructions are below the picture

The X-Tools chain wear indicator will determine if your chain needs to be replaced. Over a period of time every chain will stretch resulting in poor shifting and the high possibility of the chain snapping. The industry standard for chain replacement is when the chain wear is between 0.75% and 1.0%. Simply place one end into a link on your chain and if the 0.75% side fits in your chain will soon need replacing, if the 1.0% side fits in replace your chain immediately.

 

[Plax]

Er ... The instructions are below the picture

Yes they are, but which end do you put in first? For numpties like me, those instructions aren't very helpful. I'm a big fan of visual aids and video tutorials, otherwise my eyes glaze over when it comes to anything "technical" that is written down and does not provide any pointy diagrams.

If you look at the picture in the CRC link I provided, the right hand side has the .75 and 1.0 writing on (hence forth known as the hammer side), and the left hand side has the rounded curved bits (hence forth known as the curved side). Do you put the hammer side bit in first and if the curved bit fits over the link then you're in trouble?

I have measured my chain using a ruler after watching Alex ramon's bicycle tutor video. My chain is bang on perfect chain length according to that method. If I put either side of the curved side of the ruler in, then the hammer side pretty much fits in between the links (but not perfectly) on either side. If I put the hammer side in first then the curved bit won't fit over the links at all.

I expect you're all rolling your eyes at me now - I can't help but make simple things more complicated than they need to be!

 

[PatrickPending]

id say the hooky bit (left hand side in crc photo) goes bettween the links and the stiky out bits with .75 or 1 written on them (right hand side crc photo) should then well you should see if these slide between the links further up the chain. if .75 does but 1 does not it measns replace chain soon, if 1 and .75 slide in it means replace chain immediately. If neither slide in then you're probably ok

hope this helps

 

[PatrickPending]

oh and I tend to replace chains after 3000km or so - usually go through 4/year on the commuter - though I replace them before they start to wear out the casette/chainrings. It alsodepends on how much dirt the chain gets on it (mud is a killer) make of chain and how well its looked after. I put mudguards on my commuter about a year ago and it does seem that I'mn getting more life out of chains than I used to

with 25000miles on your current chain I'd thiink your casette/ chainroings and jockey wheels on rear mech may well be worn too

oops just read its 2500 miles - you may be - use the tool and if its between .75 and 1 then you can probably just replace the chain

 

[4F]

id say the hooky bit (left hand side in crc photo) goes bettween the links and the stiky out bits with .75 or 1 written on them (right hand side crc photo) should then well you should see if these slide between the links further up the chain. if .75 does but 1 does not it measns replace chain soon, if 1 and .75 slide in it means replace chain immediately. If neither slide in then you're probably ok

hope this helps

Indeed

 

[fossyant]

Rounded end is placed on a chain roller. If the 1.0 hammer end slots into a link, then the chain needs replacing. 0.75 and it's getting worn.

 

[Plax]

Cheers peeps. I'm hard work I know!
The curved side into the rollers first. The tool doesn't fit flat against the chain. I get a kind of long triangular shaped gap. Which I take it is good news.
I think I might actually clean my chain and see if that helps, I can't find any stiff links or worn bits on the cassette. Maybe the gear cables could do with a change.