Changing cassettes

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tigger

Über Member
Thinking of changing my cassette from 11-25 to 11-28 (just need a little more help on the hills!)

Couple of questions. Firstly is this a simple job to do myself with the right tools? Secondly, will I need to change any other components to accomodate the bigger cog (i.e do I need a different chain/deraileur etc?)

Cheers,

Tim
 

Cheule

New Member
Location
Coventry
Thinking of changing my cassette from 11-25 to 11-28 (just need a little more help on the hills!)

Couple of questions. Firstly is this a simple job to do myself with the right tools? Secondly, will I need to change any other components to accomodate the bigger cog (i.e do I need a different chain/deraileur etc?)

Cheers,

Tim

Very easy with the right tools, also changing from 11-25 to 28 should present no problem regarding the chain, the rear Derailleur should automatically absorb the slack unless the chain is very tight already.

Take a look at this video which should help you out.
 
Done the same on the new bike I built, went from 25 to 28 no problem but, if your old chain is well worn replace it at the same time or you may end up with gears that jump about a bit and he didn't put any grease on the freehub, helps when you next replace it.
 
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tigger

tigger

Über Member
Thanks Chaps. Looks dead easy - that how to link is really useful. The chain has done less than 100 miles so hopefully this is straightforward.

Thanks again

Tim
 

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
One issue tigger.

The bicycle tutor video shows him not using any hand protection. Personal experience suggests it's a good idea while using a chain whip and lockring tool to wear protective gloves! Blood isn't a recommended transmission lubricant.
 

Greenflash

New Member
I find a 4ft length of scaffold tube an essential tool for this job. Resist the temptation to tap the spanner with a hammer!
 

battered

Guru
I find a 4ft length of scaffold tube an essential tool for this job. Resist the temptation to tap the spanner with a hammer!

Not at all, a judicious tap to overcome the ridges is more than sensible. It's only steel on steel, you won't break anything.
 

Greenflash

New Member
It's only steel on steel, you won't break anything.

With apologies to anyone who has steel hands, I was thinking more of the danger of the hammer/spanner combination slipping with resultant blood loss. Putting a big lever over the spanner (ie a scaffold pole or other similar) allows a controlled amount of pressure to be applied with little risk of the spanner slipping.
 

giant man

New Member
Location
Essex innit?
I use a Pedros Vise Whip tool. Soo much easier than any chain whip imo, which I never got on with have to say.
 

battered

Guru
With apologies to anyone who has steel hands, I was thinking more of the danger of the hammer/spanner combination slipping with resultant blood loss. Putting a big lever over the spanner (ie a scaffold pole or other similar) allows a controlled amount of pressure to be applied with little risk of the spanner slipping.

Oh, I see what you mean. I don't have my hands near any sharp bits, just take up the slack then give it a sharp push. If that doesn't work, it's a bit of a 3-hands trick to get everything engaged, no slack in the system, then clout it with the mallet. I have a Thor copper/hide mallet that has seen much abuse and usually gets pressed into service for this job, it's one of my favourite service tools.:thumbsup:
 
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tigger

tigger

Über Member
Thanks for all your help everyone.

Fitted the cassette today - was really easy and no dramas at all.

Took the bike for a quick spin and all seems OK, but (I might be over-analysing here now) but I can't help but think it doesn't sound perfectly smooth. Its probably just in my head, but is there a strong likelihood that I need to adjust the rear derailleur or anything else? I'm assuming the chain is fine as its done less than 100 miles. So just to satisfy my curiosity any thoughts here?

Cheers

Tim
 

battered

Guru
... is there a strong likelihood that I need to adjust the rear derailleur or anything else?

I doubt it. If you can make all your gear shifts cleanly then just ride it. You may need to wear off the sharp edges from your shiny new cassette, may take a few trips out.
 
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tigger

tigger

Über Member
Had a quick look at the bicycle tutor re: rear derailleurs. Just played with the cable tension and got it spot on, don't think it was quite right with the original built. Its sweet now.

Just been out for a 30 mile spin. Fantastic, its amazing what the extra sprocket adds on the steeper climbs. Really chuffed with it, just need to think about changing the saddle and maybe the handlebars and I've got the perfect bike for me now.

Thanks again for all the tips.
 

Cheule

New Member
Location
Coventry
Excellent news - and it seems you face what we all seem to do - get one thing set up to your preference, then look at more bike bits to buy :thumbsup: I know that feeling :thumbsup:
 
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tigger

tigger

Über Member
and it seems you face what we all seem to do - get one thing set up to your preference, then look at more bike bits to buy :thumbsup: I know that feeling :thumbsup:

Yeah it seems to be the way! Forgot to add brakes to the list too! I've got the Planet X CNC brakes with swiss stop pads. They are very light, they perform great and look even better... but what a pain in the arse to take the wheel out and keep the damn things centred!!! Hmmm... perhaps I just need to know how to sort them.

Its funny, I gave up a very fiddly tech-orientated sport recently after the birth of my son due to lack of time - (UK team parakart (kite buggy) racer - set of 10 kites, 3 sets of wheels + buggy to tinker and perfect!). But I now see cycling becoming a similar labour of love. I just wanted to get out and ride and leave maintenance to the LBS but I can see me getting more invloved on the tools front.

Anyway... must must drop Planet X a line in the morning, need to work those brakes out as theres really no need to change them!!!! It can't be as bad as trimming and cleaning 10 race kites!

Cheers

Tim
 
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