Craft Glue Question

[Arch]

I'm looking into covering some cardboard boxes with interesting or fancy paper (wrapping paper, old maps, old music manuscript etc). The boxes will the posher branded sort, often already covered in fancy paper or a plain colour, but with brand logos and stuff on - the sort that perfume bottles, or jewellery, or even shoes come in, as opposed to bog standard corrugated card.

I'm assuming PVA glue is the best bet, but was wondering about spray mount/adhesive. PVA is cheap, but I wondered if spray would be easier to apply - but does it last? If I use PVA, is it best to water it down a little and apply with a brush?

These would be sold, hopefully as gift boxes, or nick-nack holders - not for a huge price, but they have to look good, and not fall apart.

I've covered boxes and stuff before, but only for myself, so I want these to look professional. It would be a small extra income for the charity I work for.

 

[Globalti]

Definitely not Spray Mount. No matter how permanent the permanent version claims to be, it's not. The coverings will eventually come off especially if your coverage has been less than perfect. Also it smells awful, is bad for the environment, is expensive and you have to invert the can to clear the nozzle. Edit: Also any overspray will always remain irritatingly sticky.

Use PVA diluted down with a little water and painted on. It's a great adhesive and will even slightly stiffen the job once it's dry.

Is there anything you can't do with PVA?

 

[Arch]

Great thanks, that confirms what I suspected. I'd prefer not to use a spray really.

PVA it is. I'll buy a large bottle!

 

[Globalti]

Great thanks, that confirms what I suspected. I'd prefer not to use a spray really.

PVA it is. I'll buy a large bottle!

I wish York was nearer to Lancs as I could give you what you need, I've got litres of the stuff.

 

[ttcycle]

spray mount is a good option - PVA and copy deck (is that the right name- red top on white tub packaging) might be too thick and gloopy and leave a wrinkled effect on the paper if it is lighter weight then say a thick, thick quality paper - PVA will be fine for that.

Spray mount is costly, ideal for lighter weight papers. You might want to get the type where you can reposition.

If you can get hold of a scalpel or a sharp pair of scissors(harder with scissors) try to cut a diagonal shape out of the corner in the papers to make the corners neater and trim when you fold it down as there will be no excess paper to bulge out.

 

[ttcycle]

hah contradictory advice - i would agree with Globalti is that it's hard to be precise with the stuff - covering the boxes may not be the best option.

You can dilute the PVA but this could give a weird finish - what about wallpaper paste really diluted? has anyone tried this?

 

[Arch]

Thanks for the tip about the corners! I've got a scalpel, and blades.

PVA can wrinkle, as you say, so I'll try and apply it sparingly. The paper will generally be fairly robust (standard copier paper style or thicker), so I hope any wrinkles will smooth as it dries. I can experiment with scrap paper and different dilutions.

It's a while since I did anything like this, so I think a bit of practice will be a good idea. The boxes won't be standard shapes or sizes, since they'll be whatever we can reclaim - ditto the paper. So it'll be good to be confident with the paper, and be able to work relatively quickly.

Takes me right back to covering textbooks and exercise books at school!

 

[ttcycle]

The other option is to heavy duty pritt stick a layer of glue onto copier paper weight (nothing heavier, it won't adhere enough) and sparingly apply PVA in a thin line in a X shape across the 'seams' of the box and the central area.

That will give it sticking power with less or no wrinkles...sounds fun!

 

[upsidedown]

Copydex is brilliant for that kind of thing, stinks until it's dried though.

 

[ttcycle]

Copydex is brilliant for that kind of thing, stinks until it's dried though.

AH YES!!

That's the stuff- it reeks doesn't it 'fishy' is the word!
+1 for this but apply sparingly

 

[Andy_R]

Watered down PVA. Let the paper soak it up for a little while (just like when wallpapering). Any little wrinkles will pull out as the paper dries. Once dry, laquer the whole lot with shellac or similar to give it a protective coating and a nice retro japanned look

 

[Night Train]

I have found with copy paper, even thicker stuff, PVA will be a bit too wet and diluting it will make it even wetter. The paper wrinkles and then becomes fragile so you can't treat it like wall paper, it isn't strong enough.

I usually use a Pritt Stick for stuff like this as it is easy and doesn't affect the paper.
Spray mount is terrible to use and can leave 'bogies' and 'snot' on the paper causing bumps in the finish.

It you were using a decent craft paper or even wall paper then PVA will be fine.

Best thing is to try a bit to see. I have PVA to hand if you can reach this far.

 

[Arch]

Cheers! I have a bottle of PVA knocking about myself, so I can experiment. I've never had so many chaps offering me glue!

I did think of Pritt Stick, but I often find it blobs onto the paper - maybe my fault when applying it. Hence, practice is good.

The paper will be variable. So far I've collected a couple of pieces of thickish wrapping paper, some old French roadmaps and a couple of out of date Landrangers, and a book of music scores. Also the boxes are everything from teeny jewellery boxes, to almost shoebox sized, so it might be that different methods work better on different boxes.

Everything except the glue (and to some extent my time, if I do this at work) will be free, so the odd cock up won't hurt, especially if I can salvage the box and try again.

 

[BearPear]

There's a product called "Modge Podge" which I believe you will find in that little craft shop on Gillygate. It is designed for the very purpose you describe!

 

[MontyVeda]

I used to make clock boxes covered in paper to mask the cardboard (usually cereal box) construction with mixed results. PVA was always the adhesive of choice and if the paper dried all wrinkly I'd change the paper, not the glue.

You could also experiment doing it decoupage; using clear wood varnish... let it dry, sand with fine paper, reapply, let it dry, sand, reapply, and so on til you've got a thick tough gloss finish.