Crank removal - help!


Last time this happened I had to do the dirty and get a saw :blush:

BUT - it can be done !

I'm sure you can get somethiing that pushes it off the crank - cant think what its called try searvhing C+ if its still open to searching...


Ooooh, yes. Ali expands quicker than steel, yes? Hmmm...

I've been truffling about for a replacement crank.
I need 130pcd, 170m and square taper. There aint many about. I can find a Stronglight crankset for £68 from HubJub or the same set for £52 from <drumroll and ominous chords> Ribble.:blush:

Might try the heat treatment. If it works then I can tighten the BB cup (the original problem that meant removing the crank) and replace the shagged crank until a new one arrives.

Ta all,

Steve Austin

The Marmalade Kid
A tried and tested method to remove cranks it to put the bolt back in and tighten it. then loosen it maybe two full turns.
then go ride up and down the road, a few hard efforts, a few jumps off the kerb should loosen it.

If it don't a flywheel/crank puller that them cars users use will do it


Legendary Member
I had the same problem a while ago. As already suggested, ride with the bolt loose, then use the pulley pullers to finish it off.

This worked for me, only after I'd used the big hammer method first though.


Chuffy - have a look at my ramblings on the subject (and others) at and the Briefings.



Mr Andy Gates and his Power of Mongo came to the rescue. I had to hide indoors while he thwacked my baby with a lump hammer... :blush:

Now I know the crank does come off I can get Andy to brutalise the cranks off again, fit a new BB, mongo the crank back on and carry on regardless. The stripped crank thread is only a problem when I need to get it off again.

Cheers all,


Well-Known Member
Is there a torque setting for the crank? (And no effing tight doesn't count! :blush: ) also second the grease tapers trick. You might be able to re-tap the threads, fit a helicoil insert (expensive) but probably better to replace the whole lot.

Tip for the future, could use some automotive bearing pullers and a suitable spacer to go inside the crank taper hole and pull it off that way, you won't be touching the threads in the crank arm.


After pretty much servicing / cleaning the cycle I noticed that instead of the usual tightening of the cranks the bolt getting tighter until it could turn no more: it just kept tightening on so I left it 'tight' but just like a BB removal tool which I plan to acquire (& remove the BB so doesn't sieze?) = the cranks are definately coming off a lot more than usual ! [NOD]

Mr Phoebus

New Member
Another way to remove a crank in that situation: remove the BB cup from the opposite side of the frame, and then drift the axle out. :blush:


Middle aged bald git.
You can buy a tapered crank removal tool that cuts it's own new thread when the old one is FUBARED. It works exactly the same as a standard one but the screw in component flares slightly.
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