DIY question 2 - Central Heating

[Crackle]

Following on from my previous header tank question. I now seemed to have cured the leak but there's a bit of damp about on a few walls so I was going to switch on the heating.

However to drain the header tank I had to drain through the hot water taps as the cold all seem to be mains fed, even upstairs. So I've almost certainly drained the immersion heater as well.

Now it's a bit of an old system and the timer just seems to be for both central heating and hot water i.e. both at once, no split. So if the hot water tank has no water in can I still put the central heating on? I suppose I could partially refill the system without completely filling the header tank but I'd prefer not too.

 

[punkypossum]

I wouldn't...not if you've completely drained it!

Anyway, way too warm to have the heating on!!!

 

[Globalti]

Don't post your question on a cycling forum, post it in the plumbing and heating section of DIYnot.com

Be sure to tell them what kind of system you have as well as the age and the type of boiler or they'll string you up. Otherwise there are some very good plumbers who frequent that forum.

 

[Night Train]

You won't have drained the immersion tank. The tank is gravity fed into the bottom and the taps draw off from the top so you have only emptied the pipework. You can put your heating on but if it heats the immersion then you will find that it will give you a tank of hot water that you can't use. Leve it like this long enough and you will get some evapration which will lower the water level a bit. The tank thermostat should prevent boiling over.

Get the leak sorted and then refil the header tank to get your hot water supply flowing again.

 

[Crackle]

You won't have drained the immersion tank. The tank is gravity fed into the bottom and the taps draw off from the top so you have only emptied the pipework. You can put your heating on but if it heats the immersion then you will find that it will give you a tank of hot water that you can't use. Leve it like this long enough and you will get some evapration which will lower the water level a bit. The tank thermostat should prevent boiling over.

Get the leak sorted and then refil the header tank to get your hot water supply flowing again.

Ah yes. I figured that as I was out before and thinking about it but you've confirmed what I thought. I shall nip over and put the heating on for a bit.

I'll have a look at that forum RR. I suspect I shall have many more questions for the next few months. It's more fun asking them here though.

 

[Night Train]

Bear in mind you are taking plumbing advice from someone who is a carpenter and electrician.

 

[sheddy]

Just to repeat - DO NOT SWITCH THE BOILER ON IF THE CH HEADER TANK IS EMPTY!

 

[Crackle]

Just to repeat - DO NOT SWITCH THE BOILER ON IF THE CH HEADER TANK IS EMPTY!

Worry not: That one is full, it's the main header tank I emptied.

 

[Over The Hill]

If you have emptied it then just get a new one and pop it in! They are in most shops like B & Q, just unbolt the old fittings (One in with ball cock) one overflow probably plastic above water level) and one or two pipes out at low level, maybe an overflow hanging in the air over the lid. Just take down the old one and drill the same size holes in the same places and off you go.
If it will not go through the loft hole then they will fold up fairly well.

Probably about as difficult as replacing a tap if you can do that.

 

[Chuffy]

Is the tank Campag or Shimano?

 

[jonesy]

Just make sure you are wearing a helmet before you attempt to turn it on

 

[Crackle]

Just make sure you are wearing a helmet before you attempt to turn it on

Actually I banged my head as I made my way down the loft to the tank. Cunobelin will have to weave that into his statisitics.

It's gotta to be a Shimano tank, it's plastic.

Where did you get that strange signature from Chuffy, I'll have to go searching for the thread now.

 

[Crackle]

If you have emptied it then just get a new one and pop it in! They are in most shops like B & Q, just unbolt the old fittings (One in with ball cock) one overflow probably plastic above water level) and one or two pipes out at low level, maybe an overflow hanging in the air over the lid. Just take down the old one and drill the same size holes in the same places and off you go.
If it will not go through the loft hole then they will fold up fairly well.

Probably about as difficult as replacing a tap if you can do that.

You missed my other thread. Whole system is being replaced with a megaflow and I'm not in the house yet. I just needed to stop the cursed thing weeping.

 

[Chuffy]

Where did you get that strange signature from Chuffy, I'll have to go searching for the thread now.

It's here. I blame Abitrary and a large G&T.

 

[jonesy]

You missed my other thread. Whole system is being replaced with a megaflow and I'm not in the house yet. I just needed to stop the cursed thing weeping.

You can get a kind of plastic stuff for sealing leaks that you mix and then blodge all over the cracks; it sets hard forming a waterproof seal. No doubt DIY purists would scorn it, but if it works, who cares! It isn't expensive.