Fixie Info Required Please

[Oldie But Goodie]

Could someone please explain how to get the proper tension on my fixie chain as it always seems to slacken off to about 1" play after a couple of rides.
Also I have Gaiter 700-23C tyres carrying a bike weight of 9kg plus my weight of 88kg plus my bag 1-2 kg what should the tyre pressure be please?
I have 100psi or 7 bar I think and its a bloody hard ride. I use to have a 4-5 bar or 80psi pressure in them but kept feeling steel rims over potholes
Please help guys

 

[colinr]

Do the nuts tighter! Or invest in some chain rugs.
The play sounds ok though, rule of thumb is straight to the eye with about 1" of play if you poke at it.

Tyres, I run 700x25 at 110 front and rear but I don't mind a hard ride.

 

[Rob3rt]

The short answer is flex your muscles a bit more! Get the wheel nuts nice and tight (not hulk tight though, else you will strip the threads). If the chain is loosening by 1 inch then the wheel is slipping forward in the dropouts.

You could alternativelly buy a chain tug. Some people use two, but really you only need one on the drive side.

 

[tyred]

Be sure and use a proper ring spanner which fits the nuts properly (usually 15mm for a back wheel), or you risk rounding the corners of the nuts and skinning your knuckles.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

23's need lots of psi to avoid pinch flats.

Fit 28's? or at least 25's. I weigh loads more than you and 28's are bliss at 100psi rear 90 psi front

Charlie the bikemonger does some dead cheap chain tugs which will banish wheel slip.

 

[Rob3rt]

Forgot to add, and I think this is right (this is how I do it anway and it seems to work fine), when you put some pressure on the pedals in a forward motion (with your hand), the bottom half of the chain should have about half an inch to 1 inch of up down movement.


Your wheel must only be a tad too slack if it is just creeping, because if it was not the near corect tightness, the 1st time you accelerated hard the wheel would come slamming up against the end of the dropout.

 

[mickle]

First of all check that your drop outs are aligned, ie parallel. If your drop outs aren't perfectly straight no amount of torque will prevent the wheel from moving.
Then check that the nut hasn't left an 'indent' in the face of the drop out. It's quite common, the nut will continually want to slip into it. Gently remove it by facing the drop out with a sharp file.
Ensure that you've some grip left on the contact faces of your nuts or their washers, if not replace them. Buy the best ones you can find. You've discovered for yourself how critical these components are and how annoying when they don't perform.

Last resort - fit chain tugs.

 

[oysterkite]

Dont worry too much if there is some slack, its easy to get obsessed when actually too tight a chain is worse than slighttly slack as you will wear out cogs & chain at a rate of knots. As long as the chain in not coming off you should be ok. Also remember that chains wear disporportionately when first used which will create a bit of slack on the first few outings..

 

[4F]

Be sure and use a proper ring spanner which fits the nuts properly (usually 15mm for a back wheel), or you risk rounding the corners of the nuts and skinning your knuckles.

+1

 

[GrasB]

Be sure and use a proper ring spanner which fits the nuts properly (usually 15mm for a back wheel), or you risk rounding the corners of the nuts and skinning your knuckles.

A cheap impact socket will allow for a much higher application of pressure than the most expensive bi-hexegon socket or spanner. Internal drive secure torx is even better & works very well as a theft deterrent.

 

[Oldie But Goodie]

Do the nuts tighter! Or invest in some chain rugs.
The play sounds ok though, rule of thumb is straight to the eye with about 1" of play if you poke at it.

Tyres, I run 700x25 at 110 front and rear but I don't mind a hard ride.

 

[Oldie But Goodie]

Thanks colinr and to everyone who has helped with their comments