Help!!! Frustrated with gears

[Old timer]

You might remember I purchased two cheapo bikes? OK! the 6 speed rear mech on my bike work OK (although using the twist grip change needs a fairly strong grip)
My wifes gears are proving a problem to get the low gear as well as the high gear. It seems to boil down to the cable adjustment in the end but I really do think that the span of these cheapo gears is only just by a knats knacker ever going to get all the gears. They have stop screws to prevent the gears going beyond 1st and 6th (that`s a laugh)

Please someone correct me if I`m wrong?

I`m in two minds to just pick up a set of gears (they don`t look too expensive and she only rides occasionally so any decent make bottom end would probably do her)

Now I know I`m gonna run into fitting problems from the point of how they attach to the frame. The exisitng set have an allen bolt to a lug that protrudes just below the main axle(on the bike frame) and there is a small protrusion lug (on the gears) that falls in line with a flat spot on the mounting lug that prevents the assembly from spinning.
Does that all make sense or will you need pictures?
Now I know why pros use a frame to mount the bike on when they are working on them trying to hold the bike up , turn the peddles and change gear is back breaking. I`m so frustrated at the moment I need a lie down in a dark room

Q. Is it likely that some cheap gears don`t have enough span to cover all the cogs or could it still be a set up problem?
Q. Are twist grip changers always a bit stiff?
Q. Would it be worth fitting a lever change to the handle bars for her and if so , am I likely to be able to use the exisitng cable?

HELP!!!

 

[lukesdad]

Q.1.Still likely to be a set up problem.
Q.2.They Can be percieved to be stiffer than a lever operated system.
Q.3.It depends on how the rear mech works as to whether alever operated system will work it.

 

[Old timer]

Q.1.Still likely to be a set up problem.
Q.2.They Can be percieved to be stiffer than a lever operated system.
Q.3.It depends on how the rear mech works as to whether alever operated system will work it.

I meant if I replace the gear changer would I be better to get a lever changer?

BTW forgot to mention. My wife has just reminded me that the box was damaged that the bike came in around the gear mech (usually they have a large domed plastic cap over the gears) and that was missing and the box was damaged around that area and when I look down at the gears they seem a bit skewed.

 

[Old timer]

I meant if I replace the gear changer would I be better to get a lever changer?

BTW forgot to mention. My wife has just reminded me that the box was damaged that the bike came in around the gear mech (usually they have a large domed plastic cap over the gears) and that was missing and the box was damaged around that area and when I look down at the gears they seem a bit skewed.

So I take it that most gears can cover the gear range then?

 

[Old timer]

Sorted

Thought I`d have one more go at the gears in the cold light of day.

So! slung two lengths of rope over beams in the garage and suspended the bike at a more user friendly height so that I could actually turn the pedals and change gear. Much fine tuning and starting from scratch and now have all 6 gears working. Not quite so straight forward when you want to change the front ring but in general all seems to work. She did a road test and was over the moon and she really only uses the middle front ring anyway.
I still say that it`s a bit of a wrist cruncher for a woman with normal hands to operate the twist grip gear change but she seems to be managing. A few spots of flexible loc-tite and a couple of dabs of clear silicon sealant on the limit screws that don`t have any sort of spring loading to stop them from adjusting themselves and a coating of chain lub and she is ready for the mountains

Dave

 

[Old timer]

Q.1.Still likely to be a set up problem.
Q.2.They Can be percieved to be stiffer than a lever operated system.
Q.3.It depends on how the rear mech works as to whether alever operated system will work it.

Thanks Lukesdad, it was your mention that it was probably a set up problem that was causing the trouble that gave me the incentive to have another bash.

Dave

 

[Arch]

Glad you've sorted it. I don't know if this was the issue, but cables do stretch a little when new - that might have thrown the adjustment out a bit. Gears and brakes usually need a bit of fettling after some use, even on a top of the range bike.

I've used twistgrips a lot (being a girl with weedy wrists) and found them ok to twist, I suppose the brand might make a difference. It's possible the cables weren't greased well,or at all, before fitting, so squirting a bit of something like WD40 up the outer might help. Also, look at the cable run - if there are any kinks or very tight turns, that will increase friction. Does she wear mitts to cycle in? Just having a nice grippy palm surface can help too.

 

[Norm]

Just having a nice grippy palm surface can help too.

There's a cue for Fnaar if ever I've seen one! That said, though, I agree as Small Norm II finds it tough to use her twist gears when she isn't wearing her gloves.

Glad that you've sorted it, OT. Have you considered a bike stand? They make work a little easier than strapping the bikes to the rafters.

Very satisfying sorting this stuff yourself, isn't it.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

[FONT=&quot]Getting twist grips to work sweetly with rear mechs used to be something of a black art to me (i.e. as likely to be speed up by stiff drinks before as not...), until I found and read the (very) fine print of a Shimano instruction leaflet.

Apologies if how to do it is obvious to you, or if it has been posted by someone else previously; but I never saw this method mentioned in various websites/books covering rear mech adjustment before, or since.

What I am talking about, is when there is no mechanical "fault", after getting the cable tension about right for the 1st sprocket, and the two limiting screws to their obvious positions, how do you get the rest of the gears correspond to their clicks under 30 seconds?

The attached from the Shimano leaflet suggests the setting of cable tension "just so" between the 2nd and 3rd sprocket. It makes perfect sense, and has worked every time for me so far[/FONT]

 

[Old timer]

[FONT=&quot]Getting twist grips to work sweetly with rear mechs used to be something of a black art to me (i.e. as likely to be speed up by stiff drinks before as not...), until I found and read the (very) fine print of a Shimano instruction leaflet.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Apologies if how to do it is obvious to you, or if it has been posted by someone else previously; but I never saw this method mentioned in various websites/books covering rear mech adjustment before, or since.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]What I am talking about, is when there is no mechanical "fault", after getting the cable tension about right for the 1st sprocket, and the two limiting screws to their obvious positions, how do you get the rest of the gears correspond to their clicks under 30 seconds? [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The attached from the Shimano leaflet suggests the setting of cable tension "just so" between the 2nd and 3rd sprocket. It makes perfect sense, and has worked every time for me so far[/FONT]

That`s funny that should say that because I discovered more or less that very thing today. After getting the chain to span the block I did have smooth noiseless action but not exactly on the clicks so I adjusted the cable whilst in mid block a touch and now she has noiseless operation on the clicks.

BTW I did strip the gears down and found that the gear wheels/jockey wheels on this cheapo bike don`t have any sort of bearings but just rely on plastic on a metal centre shaft which I fear will start to wear so I`ll have to keep them well lubricated. I reckon if I stripped my Evans Shimano gears down the jockeys would have some sort of bearing??

Dave