Help with first commuting geared bike

[dele]

Hey everyone,

I'm very new to the world of (geared) biking so I'll apologise in advance if I ask seemingly obvious questions!

I currently ride a Specialized Langster 2011 version single gear (http://www.evanscycles.com/products...2011-single-speed-road-bike-ec024961#features) to work about 3 times a week which is a 14 mile round trip, but I hope with the right bike I can make it 4/5 days a week.

I currently make each leg in about 22-24 minutes. Not sure if that's good or not, but it beats driving so I'm happy

Anyway, there are sections of the journey where I spin out and I end up just coasting because I'd have to go mental on the leg work for almost no gain in speed, so I've decided to get a nice geared road bike which I won't have to modify as it'll be good right out of the box.

Initially I started looking at the Specialized Allez http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/allez-compact-2013-road-bike-ec040963#features because I like the brand and I tend to stick to stuff I know, but then I thought I'd get something with a better component set as I was reading that the quality of the 2300 group wasn't great.

So I started looking at the Sport and Elite versions, and thought they were quite nice, but looked at last year's version to see if I could make a saving. Turns out last year's model is more expensive than this years!

I thought it was a mistake but apparently Specialized are just releasing models with lower quality components. So that kind of annoyed me as a consumer and so at this point, I thought that if I was going to spend 850 upwards, I might as well get the best value for money in the 850-1500 price bracket.

When I went into a store I got talking to an assistant who showed me a few Cube bikes, (who I'd never heard of before) and I was impressed with the groupsets they provide at the pricing they set. I was pretty much sold on the Cube Peleton Pro/Race by the time I left the shop, but wanted to go home and do more research on it. What I disliked about the Pro, was the fact that cables come out of the shifters as they're Tiagra whereas the Race has internal as it's 105. Small thing I know, but I don't like the look of it so I'd prefer internal.

Anyway, I found out that Cube do a Pelaton SL version http://www.cube.eu/en/road/road-race/peloton-sl/ which I have my heart pretty much set on now.

They tell me it'll be a special order as they don't stock it. Which means about a month's wait time. I asked why they don't stock and apparently it's because at that price point, most people just go for the one up the range, the Agree http://www.cube.eu/en/road/road-race/agree-gtc/ which is Carbon. Having looked at the two, the Peloton has the better groupset AND is lighter(?!) So I'm confused a little about this.

The shop assistant also advised against going above Tiagra for commuting as the lighter/better components aren't made for the daily grind..

I realise I've written quite a lot

, so to summarise - I'd like to hear your opinions on;

1. Whether the Pelaton SL is a bike suitable for someone at my level for commute/recreational weekend use (if not why not please)

2. Is it correct that higher level groupsets are too fragile for commuting?

3. Does the Cube Agree (or even Agree Pro!) have some advantages over the Peloton SL that I'm not seeing?

4. Any other pointers you think would be relevant

Many thanks in advance for your help and congrats if you've read this far!

Dele

 

[vickster]

Just to confuse you as little more...

The Boardman Road is very good value for a grand, join British Cycling and save £100, comes with 105 gearing and good wheels

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_789235_langId_-1_categoryId_165710

I don't think 105 is more fragile than Tiagra, will just cost a bit more to replace bits

Am I right in thinking the Peloton has a more relaxed geometry while the agree is more racy (bit like the Secteur and Allez)? Have you been able to test ride any of the Cubes to check that the geometry suits you?

 

[dele]

Thanks for that Vickster, definitely added another option to the mix
Not sure whether it may be better to get a model from this year though?

I think the Agree is set up to be more racy yes, but in terms of my commute, I'm not sure whether I'd benefit from that difference?

I haven't test ridden the bikes as of yet because I'm shortlisting the candidates on paper first and then will call in to book one!

 

[simon.r]

All of the bikes you're looking at seem more geared towards recreational use rather than commuting. There's absolutely no reason why you couldn't commute on any of them, but it may be worth thinking about things like mudguard eyes and clearance, tyre clearance and cost of replacing brake blocks, chains etc.

I think in an ideal world you'd want a 'sturdy' commuter and a road bike for the weekends, which given your budget would be doable (albeit you'd have to accept a lower spec).

 

[vickster]

The Giant Defy 2 is Tiagra'd and will take rack and some types of guards. Certainly carbon bikes aren't very commuting friendly

I would say for commuting a less racy bike is perhaps an advantage, more upright in traffic

Bit depends where you commute, quiet country roads or London!

Why do you need a 2013 model specifically - if the spec and price is right on the older model

 

[dele]

All of the bikes you're looking at seem more geared towards recreational use rather than commuting. There's absolutely no reason why you couldn't commute on any of them, but it may be worth thinking about things like mudguard eyes and clearance, tyre clearance and cost of replacing brake blocks, chains etc.

I think in an ideal world you'd want a 'sturdy' commuter and a road bike for the weekends, which given your budget would be doable (albeit you'd have to accept a lower spec).

Hi Simon, thanks for the reply I don't plan on using guards as they detract from the aesthetic for me (shallow I know ) and for tyres I was just planning to use stock for summer and probably some armadillos for this season. Chains etc would be covered by warranty?

Unforunately, I'm disdained to compromise as it is, never mind with two bikes

Have you any opinion between the Agree Pro and the Peloton SL specifically?

Many thanks

The Giant Defy 2 is Tiagra'd and will take rack and some types of guards. Certainly carbon bikes aren't very commuting friendly

I would say for commuting a less racy bike is perhaps an advantage, more upright in traffic

Bit depends where you commute, quiet country roads or London!

Why do you need a 2013 model specifically - if the spec and price is right on the older model

Thanks for the further info
Why is Carbon bad for commute? (excuse my ignorance) I thought it was more compliant therefore more friendly over bad roads etc..I get pretty stiff feedback from my alu Langster at the moment

I'm commuting in London - Brixton/Streatham/Norbury/Tooting/Kensington & Chelsea etc.So pretty busy to be honest. It is good to be upright in traffic like you say, but I do try to go as fast as I safely can, so I think I'd only want a quicker geometry eventually so might as well get it now

Again, if I could get your particlular opinion between the Agree Pro and the Peloton SL I would be grateful as I am drooling over the SL at the moment but don't want to regret not going Carbon later etc.
Oh and I just prefer newer stuff as it tends to have the benefit of improved tech over older models plus resale values aren't too bad if the worst case scenario happens and I can't ride anymore!

Cheers in advance guys,

Dele

 

[vickster]

The problem with carbon is if you have an off (not inevitable but not unheard off in London commuter world), you would need to be very very sure of no damage to the frame as if there is damage, you might be able to repair but also you might have to bin it. A good alu frame with carbon forks should be as comfortable as a carbon frame.

Chains surely won't be covered by warranty once used for a bit, any failure would be wear and tear, normally only frame under warranty if they fail without any reason

Can't comment specifically on the Cubes, there are a few owners, maybe try a search?

I dopn't think you'll find a lot of difference between 2012 and 2013 if going Tiagra / 105, just a higher price and a different paint job

And presumably you have secure parking or at least some budget for some serious locks?

 

[Robwiz]

Dele, your OP reads to me as if you've been seduced by spec envy. The groupset is one of the less important choices when selecting a new bike. How it fits (the geometry) and how it feels (ride comfort – resulting from frame material, tube sections, etc.) are far more important.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss mudguards. Having road spray spattered all over your shoes, trouser legs and up the back of your jacket and arriving everywhere dirty are a high price to pay for bike aesthetics, not to mention the extra work you'll have to do in cleaning your bike frequently.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with the Shimano 2300 group – it functions fine and more expensive groups are only really necessary if you race, are very fit and powerful and the spec of your bike is holding you back. Otherwise it's just bling and street cred.

For commuting, I personally wouldn't choose a high spec bike (except maybe a Brompton, which would never be out of my sight) as they are that much more attractive to thieves. I would also be concerned about a carbon frame bike being accidentally damaged whilst locked to a bike rack somewhere public.

 

[Andrew_P]

If you have somewhere safe to leave the bike at work, then buy the best bike you can afford. You will be spending a considerable amount of time on it so it is better to enjoy it!

I have commuted for 18 months on a full carbon bike, and it has not melted or desintergrated in the wet.

I would say the best base groupset would SRAM Rival or Shimano Tiagra, both of these would allow you to upgrade easily bit by bit should you want to. This years Tiagra is last years 105 etc.

I have done 10k on my 105 bike probably done 3-4 chains 2 cassetes and a vanity upgrade of front cranks and levers, and one set of wheels. Bargain when you look at the costs of other transport.

 

[vickster]

I never said carbon would melt or disintegrate, just when you get knocked off by a SMIDSY cabbie, it may be compromised Hence my question about where commuting, but yes get the best you can afford, maintain and insure

 

[Stonepark]

What better components will not take is abuse, i.e. they will do their job fine but don't hit them, drop them, bash them etc.

Best analogy is that of an axe, where the thinner the shaft the better it performs in use (lighter more flexible) , but manufacturers make them thicker to account for the average person who hits the shaft off logs, misses strikes, uses back of axe as a hammer etc.

Same with bikes (and their components), good group sets are most stressed during use competitively and manage to cope fine with it, what they don't like is poorly set up gear lever shifters (and changes), getting bumped off bike racks, being dirty etc, so if you look after your bike and use it properly, go with the best that you can and overall get what you are happy with, otherwise you will spend all your time wishing about the bit you didn't have.

 

[4F]

I would save your money and change the gearing on your Langster.

 

[dele]

The problem with carbon is if you have an off (not inevitable but not unheard off in London commuter world), you would need to be very very sure of no damage to the frame as if there is damage, you might be able to repair but also you might have to bin it. A good alu frame with carbon forks should be as comfortable as a carbon frame.

Chains surely won't be covered by warranty once used for a bit, any failure would be wear and tear, normally only frame under warranty if they fail without any reason

Can't comment specifically on the Cubes, there are a few owners, maybe try a search?

I dopn't think you'll find a lot of difference between 2012 and 2013 if going Tiagra / 105, just a higher price and a different paint job

And presumably you have secure parking or at least some budget for some serious locks?

Good point about the Carbon damage, it's corroborated my choice of the SL
It'll be parked at a locked bike garage at work, and at hospitals so should be ok. They'd be getting a bargain and a half that's for sure

Dele, your OP reads to me as if you've been seduced by spec envy. The groupset is one of the less important choices when selecting a new bike. How it fits (the geometry) and how it feels (ride comfort – resulting from frame material, tube sections, etc.) are far more important.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss mudguards. Having road spray spattered all over your shoes, trouser legs and up the back of your jacket and arriving everywhere dirty are a high price to pay for bike aesthetics, not to mention the extra work you'll have to do in cleaning your bike frequently.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with the Shimano 2300 group – it functions fine and more expensive groups are only really necessary if you race, are very fit and powerful and the spec of your bike is holding you back. Otherwise it's just bling and street cred.

For commuting, I personally wouldn't choose a high spec bike (except maybe a Brompton, which would never be out of my sight) as they are that much more attractive to thieves. I would also be concerned about a carbon frame bike being accidentally damaged whilst locked to a bike rack somewhere public.

You've made some very good points there, thank you Robwiz. I definitely an susceptible to spec envy - It's not to do with street cred or anything, I don't personally know anyone else who bikes so I'd have nobody to tell
I guess when parting with that much cash I suppose you want the best 'bang for your buck' if you know what I mean. Also hate second guessing myself after a purchase as well thinking 'what if' etc.

If you have somewhere safe to leave the bike at work, then buy the best bike you can afford. You will be spending a considerable amount of time on it so it is better to enjoy it!

I have commuted for 18 months on a full carbon bike, and it has not melted or desintergrated in the wet.

I would say the best base groupset would SRAM Rival or Shimano Tiagra, both of these would allow you to upgrade easily bit by bit should you want to. This years Tiagra is last years 105 etc.

I have done 10k on my 105 bike probably done 3-4 chains 2 cassetes and a vanity upgrade of front cranks and levers, and one set of wheels. Bargain when you look at the costs of other transport.

Thanks Loco, I hope to!

What better components will not take is abuse, i.e. they will do their job fine but don't hit them, drop them, bash them etc.

Best analogy is that of an axe, where the thinner the shaft the better it performs in use (lighter more flexible) , but manufacturers make them thicker to account for the average person who hits the shaft off logs, misses strikes, uses back of axe as a hammer etc.

Same with bikes (and their components), good group sets are most stressed during use competitively and manage to cope fine with it, what they don't like is poorly set up gear lever shifters (and changes), getting bumped off bike racks, being dirty etc, so if you look after your bike and use it properly, go with the best that you can and overall get what you are happy with, otherwise you will spend all your time wishing about the bit you didn't have.

Thanks Stonepark, definitely something I need to keep in mind as I've gotten used to doing ZERO maintenance on the Langster. It's literally a drop and forget affair
will youtube some ways to keep it running smoothly

I would save your money and change the gearing on your Langster.

I looked into the price of doing that and it's not worth the hassle

Update - the distributors for Cube have confirmed that they've cut the Peloton SL model for Europe cos it competes with the Agree.
Well I do like a challenge I suppose