Hercules Bicycles?

[Bicycle]

I may have this in the wrong part of the forum, but it's not really a technical issue, just a general query.

My youngest (12) wants to learn about bicycle stuff. I suggested restoring an old bike and he was up for it.

In the cellar I found my wife's old bike from her 6th form/student days in the 80s. It was already old back then.

It's a step-through, swept back bars, rod brakes, sprung saddle, heavy chain guard (not enclosed), seat stays that bolt on, oiling point for the BB. No gears and altogether very cute. Big, heavy mudguards etc.. I imagine it's from the 50s, but have no real idea.

It may be too far gone, but I suspect not.

The maker's name appears to be HERCULES. There's no other badging on the bike.

1. Is/was Hercules a known maker of bicycles?

2. What is a smart place to go looking for parts for this thing? My boy is quite keen to have a crack at it, although it looks to need quite a few bits.

This is not to do with trying to generate money. The thing was slowly rotting into the brickwork in our cellar and I thought he might enjoy breathing some life back into it.

Excuse my ignorance; any pointers would be most welcome.

 

[Night Train]

Hercules Cycle and Motor Company.

Amything like this?

Should make a great project. It would be worth checking Ebay for parts.

 

[Davidc]

My first bike was a Hercules. It was a dark red 22" wheel version of the one in the photo and was a bit big for me at first. It was secondhand, and I remember that when we sold it it was really a 'small ladies' model.

I was given it in 1959 when I was 7 (a large boy rather than a small lady! I was 5' 3" on my 7th birthday). I had a new bike when I was 11 so the Hercules was sold. In the meantime I passed my cycling proficiency on it in 1961, and having been told I could now ride on the roads gave my mother a serious shock the next weekend when I went out with a friend and phoned her from Brighton (we lived near Sutton just SW of London). When I got back (about 100miles return) the bike was taken away and locked up for a week as a punishment for me being stupid!

 

[deptfordmarmoset]

I know nothing about their bikes but I've often passed Wilson's bike shop in Peckham, SE London, which has retained its old Hercules wall adverts

here

Oh, and here's a copy of their 1949 catalogue

 

[EYE-TYE-MAD]

I may have this in the wrong part of the forum, but it's not really a technical issue, just a general query.

My youngest (12) wants to learn about bicycle stuff. I suggested restoring an old bike and he was up for it.

In the cellar I found my wife's old bike from her 6th form/student days in the 80s. It was already old back then.

It's a step-through, swept back bars, rod brakes, sprung saddle, heavy chain guard (not enclosed), seat stays that bolt on, oiling point for the BB. No gears and altogether very cute. Big, heavy mudguards etc.. I imagine it's from the 50s, but have no real idea.

It may be too far gone, but I suspect not.

The maker's name appears to be HERCULES. There's no other badging on the bike.

1. Is/was Hercules a known maker of bicycles?

2. What is a smart place to go looking for parts for this thing? My boy is quite keen to have a crack at it, although it looks to need quite a few bits.

This is not to do with trying to generate money. The thing was slowly rotting into the brickwork in our cellar and I thought he might enjoy breathing some life back into it.

Excuse my ignorance; any pointers would be most welcome.

Not sure about their origin, but Hercules was soaked up by Raleigh in the late 50s eary 60s. The one you have is pretty typical of the breed, bomb proof. They still make them in India where all the parts are still available. Why not take a break in Goa & bring some bits back in your suitcase, other than that it's the cycle jumble I'm afraid!

I may have this in the wrong part of the forum, but it's not really a technical issue, just a general query.

My youngest (12) wants to learn about bicycle stuff. I suggested restoring an old bike and he was up for it.

In the cellar I found my wife's old bike from her 6th form/student days in the 80s. It was already old back then.

It's a step-through, swept back bars, rod brakes, sprung saddle, heavy chain guard (not enclosed), seat stays that bolt on, oiling point for the BB. No gears and altogether very cute. Big, heavy mudguards etc.. I imagine it's from the 50s, but have no real idea.

It may be too far gone, but I suspect not.

The maker's name appears to be HERCULES. There's no other badging on the bike.

1. Is/was Hercules a known maker of bicycles?

2. What is a smart place to go looking for parts for this thing? My boy is quite keen to have a crack at it, although it looks to need quite a few bits.

This is not to do with trying to generate money. The thing was slowly rotting into the brickwork in our cellar and I thought he might enjoy breathing some life back into it.

Excuse my ignorance; any pointers would be most welcome.

Not sure about their origin, but Hercules ended up as part of Ral

 

[Wooliferkins]

http://www.theoldbicycleshowroom.co.uk/

 

[tyred]

Hercules manufactured decent bikes and you probably need very little in the way of parts.

Rod brakes aren't the most powerful but should work adequately if set up properly. Pads are available from Fibrax. Oil all the pivot points and ensure that both pads hit the rim at the same time. Wheel condition is critical with these. Any flats spots and you will have horrible brake judder. Very rusty rims will chew up brake pads. Make sure the spokes are tight as the brakes will pull the rim up rather than slow the bike if the spokes are all loose. SJS cycles have rims to suit if you have 36 spokes back and front. Older bikes will have 40 spokes on the back and 32 on the front and rims are as not so easily available. If the rims are straight and true but the chrome has peeled off, just sandpaper them smooth and give them a coat of silver wheel paint.

As it's a lady's frame, I would assume 26 x 1 3/8" wheels. Tyres are easily available in this size. Michelin World Tour are the best of the budget options imo. Delta Cruisers are worth considering for puncture protection if you intend to use it a lot. Woods valve tubes are still available for the authentic look, or Shrader valves will fit the rims.

Most vintage roadsters were fitted with stupidly high gearing. It is worth dropping it to something in the 60 - 65" range by fitting a bigger freewheel.

You will find 1/4" ball bearings in the bottom bracket and back hub, 3/16" in the front hub, 1/8" in the pedal bearings and probably 5/32" in the headset. If it is a Raleigh made bike, the headset and bottom bracket cups may be 26 tpi threads which are diffiuclt to find replacements for but the originals are very high quality and should still be usable. If you're careful, the cotter pins will come out undamaged and can be re-used. The secret is to use a bit of steel pipe cut to fit between the crank and ground and hit them hard. The shock will make them pop out (usually). If you tip tap at them with a hammer, you will rivet them in place and have to drill them out. Some replacements sold on ebay are very soft metal.

Unless the paintwork is completely shot, I would rub a few coats of diesel into it to kill any rust rather than repaint it and lose the patina of age that these get with time.

Some nice period chrome lights, uprated with 2.4W halogen bulb in the headlight and powered from a period Lucifer 800 dynamo (comparable to anything on the market today imo) can be found on ebay, often very cheaply and are nice touch and make it a practical and usable bike.

Chrome in those days was usually high quality and can usually be brought up to an acceptable standard. Don't use anything too abrasive or you will ruin it forever.

Also note the way the wheels go into the frame before you remove them. Old British hubs often had no locknuts and had a fixed cone and an adjustable cone. Put the wheel in the wrong way round and the cones will self tighten and destroy the bearings.

 

[Wychwood]

Hercules manufactured decent bikes and you probably need very little in the way of parts.

Rod brakes aren't the most powerful but should work adequately if set up properly. Pads are available from Fibrax. Oil all the pivot points and ensure that both pads hit the rim at the same time. Wheel condition is critical with these. Any flats spots and you will have horrible brake judder. Very rusty rims will chew up brake pads. Make sure the spokes are tight as the brakes will pull the rim up rather than slow the bike if the spokes are all loose. SJS cycles have rims to suit if you have 36 spokes back and front. Older bikes will have 40 spokes on the back and 32 on the front and rims are as not so easily available. If the rims are straight and true but the chrome has peeled off, just sandpaper them smooth and give them a coat of silver wheel paint.

As it's a lady's frame, I would assume 26 x 1 3/8" wheels. Tyres are easily available in this size. Michelin World Tour are the best of the budget options imo. Delta Cruisers are worth considering for puncture protection if you intend to use it a lot. Woods valve tubes are still available for the authentic look, or Shrader valves will fit the rims.

Most vintage roadsters were fitted with stupidly high gearing. It is worth dropping it to something in the 60 - 65" range by fitting a bigger freewheel.

You will find 1/4" ball bearings in the bottom bracket and back hub, 3/16" in the front hub, 1/8" in the pedal bearings and probably 5/32" in the headset. If it is a Raleigh made bike, the headset and bottom bracket cups may be 26 tpi threads which are diffiuclt to find replacements for but the originals are very high quality and should still be usable. If you're careful, the cotter pins will come out undamaged and can be re-used. The secret is to use a bit of steel pipe cut to fit between the crank and ground and hit them hard. The shock will make them pop out (usually). If you tip tap at them with a hammer, you will rivet them in place and have to drill them out. Some replacements sold on ebay are very soft metal.

Unless the paintwork is completely shot, I would rub a few coats of diesel into it to kill any rust rather than repaint it and lose the patina of age that these get with time.

Some nice period chrome lights, uprated with 2.4W halogen bulb in the headlight and powered from a period Lucifer 800 dynamo (comparable to anything on the market today imo) can be found on ebay, often very cheaply and are nice touch and make it a practical and usable bike.

Chrome in those days was usually high quality and can usually be brought up to an acceptable standard. Don't use anything too abrasive or you will ruin it forever.

Also note the way the wheels go into the frame before you remove them. Old British hubs often had no locknuts and had a fixed cone and an adjustable cone. Put the wheel in the wrong way round and the cones will self tighten and destroy the bearings.

Hi 'Tyred' I just found your 2012 post while dismantling a 1930's ladies cycle and many of the points you covered were very useful.
I did not note which way round the hubs were fitted, so am not sure whether to place the fixed side on left or right.
The only disparity I have found is that the 1937 Hercules catalogue lists the wheel bearings as all being quarter inch, but you mention the fronts being 3 eighths. Many Thanks for such a helpful post - Mike

 

[tyred]

Hi 'Tyred' I just found your 2012 post while dismantling a 1930's ladies cycle and many of the points you covered were very useful.
I did not note which way round the hubs were fitted, so am not sure whether to place the fixed side on left or right.
The only disparity I have found is that the 1937 Hercules catalogue lists the wheel bearings as all being quarter inch, but you mention the fronts being 3 eighths. Many Thanks for such a helpful post - Mike

Glad to be of service and pleased you found my ancient post helpful.

The fixed cup of the hub goes to the right and the adjustable cup to the left. If you think about it, the axle is fixed and the normal direction of rotation of the wheel is effectively trying to unscrew the left-hand cup against the fork. It may become very slightly loose over time but not seriously so if adjustment was correct in the first place.

If the adjustable cup is on the right, the rotation will slowly cause it to tighten into the bearing and cause excess drag, overheating and damage.

There are oddities but most bicycle hubs will take 3/16" bearings on the front and 1/4" on the back. I suppose it is possible you have an unusual front hub (is it a dynohub by any chance?). If in doubt, just measure the existing bearings with calipers or take them to a proper cycle shop and ask them to match them up for you.

 

[Wychwood]

Hi again,
Further mystery has come up in that I had originally identified the bike as a Hercules by the feint logo on the oldest pedal.
Having cleaned and rebuilt the front hub 'Phillips made in England' is now clearly readable in the hub chrome. The bike was blackout painted in the war and all other logos are unreadable or still under black paint. I shall fit the front wheel as you advise. I have just removed the older pedal which has smaller bearings (only half left) and only managed it when I remembered the left pedal had left-handed thread!
Mike

 

[snorri]

There was a day when I thought all bikes were 'Hercules'.
My mother had a pre war model and father had one that was probably bought in the late 40s, I eventually learned to ride that bike when I had grown sufficiently to get on the seat when it was on the lowest setting and pointed down at the front. It was a ladies model, so I didn't have to perform the contortions of many of my friends not tall enough to get astride a cross-bar and who cycled with one leg through the triangle below the bar.