How difficult is a conversion?

[MrFixed]

I've read multiple guide and watch lots a videos on this, but I was wondering how hard it actually is.

There's a recycling project for old bikes in my town and I'm thinking of purchasing one as they're dirt cheap usually (approx £50 cheapest).

Once purchased I was going to strip it and do it up with more modern components as cheaply as possible.

 

[Saluki]

Bikes are not that tricky a piece of engineering. Why not give it a go and see how it turns out.
If I can fix bits and bobs, anyone can.

 

[MrFixed]

I figured it was more a case of jumping in at the deep end and testing the waters with it.

Also, forgot to ask. Is it possible to install dropout adjustment screws to a bike that doesn't have them to make tensioning and aligning the rear wheel easier?

 

[raleighnut]

I got most of my bikes that way.
As for 'doing them up cheaply' I seemed to have missed that bit.

 

[raleighnut]

I figured it was more a case of jumping in at the deep end and testing the waters with it.

Also, forgot to ask. Is it possible to install dropout adjustment screws to a bike that doesn't have them to make tensioning and aligning the rear wheel easier?

You could use something like this
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&a...vice=c&icep_msku_flag=y&icep_cbt=n&adtype=pla

 

[MrFixed]

I got most of my bikes that way.
As for 'doing them up cheaply' I seemed to have missed that bit.

I can see it becoming expensive getting that 'just one extra part' kind of thing.

It's for my girlfriend really, just converting it to SS so she can ride with me every now and again so I'm hoping she won't notice me using cheaper parts haha.

 

[MrFixed]

You could use something like this
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=CoXOvgxidVdmTJeHuiwaKvpW4DdKVipwF2o_O4rwB-ru8-JoCCAQQAiCxit8GKAVgu6atg9AKyAEHqQJOPJ6QQdm5PqoEJ0_Q8hIedOdKHSriZkYal3_JFDGVCq5T4g688sw-u-hHkVfISsf7Y4AFkE7ABQWgBiaAB-Kl4xyQBwOoB6a-G9gHAeASkpWJkOCapL3lAQ&sig=AOD64_0zKcgHK5rUKrHPd2JqWT-MjS-_jA&ctype=5&rct=j&q=&ved=0CCwQww8&adurl=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-134428-41853-0/2?ipn=icep&icep_id=67&mtid=1673&kwid=1&crlp=50600204586_563391&icep_item_id=290984131572&itemid=290984131572&icep_meta_categ_id=888&icep_etrs=Y&icep_epid=-999&icep_ctlg=-999&icep_cond=New&targetid=75951447546&rlsatarget=&rpc=0.20&rpc_upld_id=52106&device=c&icep_msku_flag=y&icep_cbt=n&adtype=pla

How do those work? Put them on before the wheel nuts and it pushes against the back of the dropout?

 

[raleighnut]

I can see it becoming expensive getting that 'just one extra part' kind of thing.

It's for my girlfriend really, just converting it to SS so she can ride with me every now and again so I'm hoping she won't notice me using cheaper parts haha.

No its cos I fit 105, Deore or Campagnolo Centaur (or upward) components to my rebuilds along with generally a Brooks saddle.
What is the point about building summat on the cheap if you're gonna keep it, general cost for me is £400-£500 (cheap) to just shy of a grand (My 653 framed Campagnolo bike with Roval Classique Pave wheels, mind you to replace that nowadays would cost in the region of £3500 to buy the frame and the level of kit fitted. Think Dave Yates or Mercian for a handbuilt frame as good)

 

[MrFixed]

The max I've ever spent was £550 brand new. I don't ever see the need to exceed that because I ride fixed exclusively.

The sum of the parts might exceed that once I've upgraded bits over time.

 

[raleighnut]

The max I've ever spent was £550 brand new. I don't ever see the need to exceed that because I ride fixed exclusively.

The sum of the parts might exceed that once I've upgraded bits over time.

Have a look at getting a 531c, a 653 (mix of 531c&753 tubing), 753 or 853 Reynolds frame second hand then. A new one would be over a grand just for the frame/forks.

 

[Johnnffc]

Hi guys. I'm currently converting an early 90s Raleigh Scorpio. I brought a new crankset, however it fits to close to the frame. Anyone could give me pointers on what sort of crankset to buy?

Thanks

 

[Tim Hall]

Hi guys. I'm currently converting an early 90s Raleigh Scorpio. I brought a new crankset, however it fits to close to the frame. Anyone could give me pointers on what sort of crankset to buy?

Thanks

How close is close? When I rebuilt my Dave Yates, the shiny new cranks were frighteningly (about a millimetre, maybe two) from the frame. (Actually it was the chainring spider, not the cranks). I bought some cakes for a guy at work and he turned some spacers for me, to sit under the fixed (right hand) end of the BB, shifting the whole lot out by 1mm. It's all lovely now, and the new paint remains unblemished by inadvertent crank/chainstay interfacing. The amount of adjustment was small enough not to screw up the chain line, which is quite important on a fixer.

 

[Tim Hall]

I figured it was more a case of jumping in at the deep end and testing the waters with it.

Also, forgot to ask. Is it possible to install dropout adjustment screws to a bike that doesn't have them to make tensioning and aligning the rear wheel easier?

At a guess, you'll need to drill and tap the ends of the dropouts if they're not already. M3 I think. The chain tugs linked to are for track ends/rear ward facing dropouts so are unlikely to work on a ratbike conversion, which is probably fitted with forward facing dropouts.

 

[Johnnffc]

How close is close? When I rebuilt my Dave Yates, the shiny new cranks were frighteningly (about a millimetre, maybe two) from the frame. (Actually it was the chainring spider, not the cranks). I bought some cakes for a guy at work and he turned some spacers for me, to sit under the fixed (right hand) end of the BB, shifting the whole lot out by 1mm. It's all lovely now, and the new paint remains unblemished by inadvertent crank/chainstay interfacing. The amount of adjustment was small enough not to screw up the chain line, which is quite important on a fixer.

Too close, with the chain on it rubs the frame.
I think it's the fact that the backside of the crank isn't flat. It has a slight concave. I've popped on eBay and brought another new set. This one looks to be fine, we shall see.

Thanks for the advise. Hopefully I'll get this build done before the summer ends!

 

[raleighnut]

At a guess, you'll need to drill and tap the ends of the dropouts if they're not already. M3 I think. The chain tugs linked to are for track ends/rear ward facing dropouts so are unlikely to work on a ratbike conversion, which is probably fitted with forward facing dropouts.

The drilled/tapped dropout adjusters will not stop the wheel being pulled forward by the chain (they are just there to allow a swift wheel change when the wheel is simply pulled back against the axle stops and is then in perfect alignment in the chainstays
I've seen a couple of 'fixie' conversions (bodges) where those type of axle retainers have been modified (mackled) in order to fit. Really though a rear wheel with a solid axle and wheelnuts shouldn't move in front facing dropouts.