How do you clean your bike

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Zoiders

New Member
So it would lower the viscosity of my expensive especially formulated chain lube. Are you sure that's all it does? What evidence do you have that 'that's about it'.
Not sure about expensive.

I use 80p a bottle weldtite stuff that works as well as any of the cheaper stuff, I went off boutique "specialy engineered" oil years ago as I know what's in most of it and it's a con.

Summers coming so that changes viscosity anyway, certainly no more than a slight mix with WD.

You need to get over this one as I am not providing you with my life story just because you like spreading second hand stories about one product.

Evidence indeed.
rolleyes.gif
 

Fnaar

Smutmaster General
Location
Thumberland
Clean your bikes? What is this meaning please?

Actually, 'mickle method' on the chain now and then, but actually clean them? well, the rain does that. Mebbes a reasonable clean twice a year, but no more!!!!
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Well, all I can say is...... :wacko: :wacko: :wacko:

Use it, clean it.... PS it isn't a car.......... these work for a long time then go pop. A bike will go pop sooner, but if you take it to a shop and have done nothing, then your bank balance will be gone, but not as much as a car...

Don't start me on the crap that is filling up the bike stand at a site I need to be at....99% full on old rusty shite... :wacko:
 
Not sure about expensive.

I use 80p a bottle weldtite stuff that works as well as any of the cheaper stuff, I went off boutique "specialy engineered" oil years ago as I know what's in most of it and it's a con.

Summers coming so that changes viscosity anyway, certainly no more than a slight mix with WD.

You need to get over this one as I am not providing you with my life story just because you like spreading second hand stories about one product.

Evidence indeed.
rolleyes.gif

I can assure you, my chain lube costs a fortune. I'd rather not dilute it.

You keep making broad claims without any substantiative evidence and I suspect very strongly that you have no idea what actually happens to a lubricant once it has been contaminated with WD beyond your own fevered guesswork. My objections to WD40 stand.

Admit it: you just like the smell of it don't you?
 

Zoiders

New Member
I can assure you, my chain lube costs a fortune. I'd rather not dilute it.

You keep making broad claims without any substantiative evidence and I suspect very strongly that you have no idea what actually happens to a lubricant once it has been contaminated with WD beyond your own fevered guesswork. My objections to WD40 stand.

Admit it: you just like the smell of it don't you?
So you must be right because you spend the most money?

Move along folks, nothing to see here.

:laugh:
 

corshamjim

New Member
Location
Corsham
I clean my bike when either a) it gets so grubby I'm ashamed to be seen out on it, or b) it starts making grindy noises or c) it gets rusty bits. Mostly just water and elbow grease do the job, but I did actually use some muc-off on my chain the other day. I suppose if I had an expensive bike I'd buy expensive "lube" but for me a quick spray with TF2 is good enough for most things.
 

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
On the rare occasion i clean my bike, a put on a pair of thinsulate fleece gloves and rub off all the dirt, then bung the gloves in the wash. I've got some 'trail wax' dry lube for the chain, that goes on occasionally (had the same can for about 6 years now, so £8 well spent) and if I'm really bored I'll give my cables a quick squirt of a cheap WD type thing (I'm too cheap to buy 'proper' wd40).
 

Russell Allen

Well-Known Member
Do I detect the WD40 "can o worms" being opened again

can_of_worms.jpg
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
On the rare occasion i clean my bike, a put on a pair of thinsulate fleece gloves and rub off all the dirt, then bung the gloves in the wash. I've got some 'trail wax' dry lube for the chain, that goes on occasionally (had the same can for about 6 years now, so £8 well spent) and if I'm really bored I'll give my cables a quick squirt of a cheap WD type thing (I'm too cheap to buy 'proper' wd40).

:wacko: :ohmy: :sad:
 

mucoffcrew

New Member
In answer to your questions...


So as for the bike. I used my Tesco vouchers to buy some Muc Off stuff. I followed their new "3 step urban programme"
http://www.muc-off.com/urban/
(I used the chain & gears degreaser (step 2) on the cassette, chain rings & jockey wheels etc and not the chain as I did as above for the chain).

I used a washing up cloth (2 of them) and they were quickly caked in crap and ripped easily which made the task harder. Are the dedicated bike cleaning brushes worth getting or is something else better?

"Muc-Off has 5 specific bicycle brushes (Claw Brush, Soft Washing Brush, Wheel & Component Brush, Two Prong Brush and Detailing Brush). By the sounds of things you are after a general brushthat will reach all areas. The Muc-Off Soft Washing Brush suits very well for this, being able to get into every crevice with its long sintered bristles and delicate finishes. However, if you are particularly looking to get into those hard to reach areas (especially the chain and cassette) the claw brush will be able to de-crud those caked areas with its tough nylon bristles and integrated scraper. Muc-Off provides a x3 Brush Set (Detailing Brush, Soft Washing Brush & Claw Brush) at £14.99, which may be solution to your ripped washcloths."

Also do you use plain warm water if you use this muc off cleaner? Or does it have to be cold? Mine was verging on cold water. Cold or warm the Muc-Off cleaner works very well.

"The Muc-Off Bike Cleaner works well with either warm or cold water. To use effectively, Pre-wet the bike first and spray the bike cleaner all over. Leave to soak-in for 2-3 minutes where the nano-technology will break down the mud at the molecular level. Now, agitate with the Muc-Off brushes then rinse with water and your ready to start degreasing."

My bike frame is now nice and shiny so I'm kind of impressed with the cleaner. Not sure about step 3 though. Does this mean I don't need another lubricant on the chain? I got the urge to put some of my finish line stuff on it, but if the muc off step 3 is all I need then I'll resist. Also the muc off wet lube seems to have some good reviews, is this worth getting if step 3 of the "urban programme" is inadequate?

"Lubrication is key to bike performance. Step 3 is the perfect ‘all-over’ after wash corrosion inhibitor, giving a micro-film of corrosion protection and water resistance and a light layer of lube which is OK for urban riding on the road. It drives out water from the smallest of crevices leaving a non-sticky molecular layer. Being ideal for the frame, drive chain, metal components, paintwork and removing traces of water ingress. Using this product will prevent dirt adhesion between washesreducing future maintenance time as well as reducing friction, wear and energy consumption.

However, if you’re looking to really improve drive-chain efficiency, then our Wet Lube will give extra durability, providing long distance lubrication and protection. The drive-chain will become silky smooth being ultra efficient with quieter gear changes. It also repels water, inhibiting rust & corrosion. This is available in 120ml (£6.99) and 50ml (£3.99) dropper bottles."

Keep it clean.


After a horrendous bike cleaning experience I thought I'd ask how people went about cleaning their bikes.

My Galaxy has been badly abused these last few months i.e. not cleaned AT ALL. My winter hack is faring even worse but I'm leaving that for another day.

The chain and chainrings/cassette was horrific. I had to do several Sheldon shakes with Halfords citrus degraser just to get the mud off the chain. It looked like chocolate milkshake. I'm running out of this degreaser and not overly impressed so will be looking for something else. The muc off stuff I bought (see below) is in a spray can and I like to take my chain off and shake it about so makes the muc off stuff a non-contender.

So as for the bike. I used my Tesco vouchers to buy some Muc Off stuff. I followed their new "3 step urban programme"
http://www.muc-off.com/urban/
(I used the chain & gears degreaser (step 2) on the cassette, chain rings & jockey wheels etc and not the chain as I did as above for the chain).

I used a washing up cloth (2 of them) and they were quickly caked in crap and ripped easily which made the task harder. Are the dedicated bike cleaning brushes worth getting or is something else better? Also do you use plain warm water if you use this muc off cleaner? Or does it have to be cold? Mine was verging on cold water.

My bike frame is now nice and shiny so I'm kind of impressed with the cleaner. Not sure about step 3 though. Does this mean I don't need another lubricant on the chain? I got the urge to put some of my finish line stuff on it, but if the muc off step 3 is all I need then I'll resist. Also the muc off wet lube seems to have some good reviews, is this worth getting if step 3 of the "urban programme" is inadequate?

Any bike washing tips appreciated before I tackle the winter hack.
 

PoweredByVeg

Über Member
Location
Lingwood/Norwich
I've got a lovely Ultrasonic cleaning tank at work.First stage has 3 ultrasonics, caustic and is 75 degrees C. Second tank has 1 ultrasonic, no caustic and 75 degrees C. third stage is a clean water rinse

It removes every trace of muck and lube and is excellent for chains and anything else steel or plastic, not aluminium tho' it dissolves that!

Aluminium bits go in the steam/jet washer cabinet we also have which runs at 90 degrees C with a degreasing addative.

So you may have guessed my bikes don't stay dirty :biggrin:

And we also have most industrial lubricants you may ever need :thumbsup:
 
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