How tight should a headset be?

[Zippy]

I have one of those headsets that seem to steadily work loose through road vibration so I end up adjusting/retightening every fortnight or so.

This is an old locking-nuts, flat spanner job (80's Specialised HardRock). The trouble is if I set the lower nut to where the headset swings down smoothly if I hold the bike on its side and then tighten the locking nut down, the tightened headset seizes up. So I have to set the headset too loose so the finished job is just right.

My question is, how snug should a headset be? At the moment I have it so that with the frame on its side the steering swings slowly down and there is an audible "swish" as it goes; looser and the steering goes quickly and silently but then there seems to be too much play when rocking the headest with the wheel turned 90 degrees and the front brake on (like you do).

Concern is I want the headest to move smoothly without juddering but without rubbing the cups out.

 

[jimboalee]

The oldie type headset screwed cup, washer and locknut is part of a "thirty minute service" ( R. Ballentine ).

This is your WEEKLY checkover routine, as described in Richards Bicycle Book.

If they loosen or tighten, adjust them. If they don't loosen or tighten, don't adjust them.

 

[Tollers]

Are you using two spanners when you tighten? One to hold the lower nut in place and prevent it turning further, then a second spanner to tighten the lockring?

You should aim for no play. It should be perfectly snug, but not tight.

 

[Alien8]

When was the last time the headset was replaced? Sounds like the cups/bearings could be worn. Or perhaps some thread damage on the lock-nuts or steerer that's stopping you getting it proper tight.

If it's all okay you should be able to feel no play between the fork crown and head tube when you rock it on the front brake but it should still swing round nice and smooth with no tight/loose spots.

 

[Zippy]

Cups and/or bearings could be worn as cups are the originals from 1980ish.

To get the headset tight enough for no rocking when you apply front brake with the front wheel at a 90 degree angle, the headset has to be snugged down so there is a smooth swing but you can hear the races are rubbing on the cups. Its like a swish which slows the swing down a little; no pits or grabs. I think the cups may be worn smoothly across the whole bearing face rather than pitted so the headset has to be tightened deeper than a new one would be.

With everything gone metric, it may be difficult to find replacements?

 

[tyred]

No. You almost certainly need a 1" 24tpi threaded headset which is a standard part and easily available and not as difficult to replace as some make out.

 

[Zippy]

Thanks tyred. I nearly scrapped my bike a couple of times because my lbs told me that since going metric my old parts were going to be next to impossible to replace.

Instead I replaced my lbs!

 

[NickM]

...my lbs told me that since going metric my old parts were going to be next to impossible to replace...

Scoundrels!

It does sound as though you are your bike is due a new headset. Assuming reasonable quality in the first place, they should not require regular attention - mine go years between services.

 

[Zippy]

Is this a DIY or LBS job for someone who can deal with most cycle maintenance jobs? Would I need a vice or special equipment to remove the existing parts or fit the new ones?

 

[Alien8]

Is this a DIY or LBS job for someone who can deal with most cycle maintenance jobs? Would I need a vice or special equipment to remove the existing parts or fit the new ones?

Depends if you're a fettler or not?

It's probably not worth it if you buy the proper tools - it's not like you replace your headset every month.

But you can follow a DIY approach by getting the cups off with careful use of an old flat blade screwdriver and hammer. Pressing new cups in is a bit more entertaining - I made my own press using a few bits (threaded rod, plates and nuts) from B&Q. But some people use a bit of wood and hammer. You just need to make sure things are aligned when applying pressure.

There's also a few ideas on t'internet, eg here, if you do a search.

 

[tyred]

Another worthwhile tip ime to ensure the crown race is seated correctly is to find a bit of steel pipe with an internal diameter of slightly more than 1" and slide it over the steerer and tap crown race into place.

 

[Zippy]

Not sure I want to take the risk, even if I get the idea! I think this will be a lbs job.

 

[alecstilleyedye]

i took mine to lbs and he tightened it up for the price of a chat.

 

[Zippy]

Well I can tighten my own at home and chat to myself for that price but I can't replace a set of cups I don't think!