I have been adjusting the spoke tension to get my wheel true (side to side). However once I get it reasonably true and spin it, the dam thing reverts to its wonky state. Im thinking maybe the spoke nipple threads are shot and therefore unable to hold the spoke tensions. Is this a possibility or is it more likely I cocked things right up?
Is my wheel screwed...
- Thread starter User16625
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Spoked Wheels
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bournemouth
Would it be possible that you are actually twisting the spoke when your turn the nipple? If so, then the spoke would return to its original position. In other words the spoke would still be loose.
gwhite
Über Member
- Location
- Auchtermuchty Fife
It does sound like you are allowing the spokes to twist while rotating the nipples. This means that they will untwist and revert to their original state. Best to oil the nipple before starting and then take the nipple past the position you seek and the come back to this point. When finished truing use gloves and grasp each pair of parallel spokes and squeeze working around the wheel. Then de-stress the wheel. Google is your friend.
Put a strip of post it note on the spoke as a tell tale, so you can see easier if they're turning.
Just had another shot at it. The spokes are definitely not turning. I can see by the dust on the surface of the spokes. I can adjust the spoke tensions and get the wheel straiter, but within a few revolutions its literally back in the same state as previously. Completely giving up on it now. The wheel is years old and has seen some crap weather, I reckon the threads are corroded or something.
Ed no-more-lemons
Veteran
- Location
- The Burbs
Hello
It may help to unseize the threads if you spray or lubricate the inside of the wheel, prior to spinning it and letting centrifuegal force work it through the thread. Had the same problem with a 37 year old wheel and had to snip three or four spokes in the end which was just as easy as replacing the two missing ones.
I find bluetack works well and use the crayon that comes in puncture repair kits to mark the deflections.
If it were my wheel I would persevere, assuming the rims and bearing races in the hub are sound, especially as spokes get cheaper the more you need.
It may help to unseize the threads if you spray or lubricate the inside of the wheel, prior to spinning it and letting centrifuegal force work it through the thread. Had the same problem with a 37 year old wheel and had to snip three or four spokes in the end which was just as easy as replacing the two missing ones.
I find bluetack works well and use the crayon that comes in puncture repair kits to mark the deflections.
If it were my wheel I would persevere, assuming the rims and bearing races in the hub are sound, especially as spokes get cheaper the more you need.
There is a slight freeplay in the wheel actually. However the bearings in the wheel have only recently been replaced so they are ok. When you say lube the inside of the wheel, do you mean take the tyre off and lube the nipples on that side? Is it important to bother taking the tyre off?
Ed no-more-lemons
Veteran
- Location
- The Burbs
Soz for being habitually typically vague. Best to spray the end of the nipple closest to the hub, as the spinning should force the oil or whetever outward and through the thread, a few applications hours apart can't hurt either.
I believe people usually remove the tyre and rim tape so as to be able to see the rim more easily and to make sure no spokes pierce the inner tube.
