Stay away from St Pauls, Qawra, or Buggiba. Head north to Mellieha. It has a very harsh beauty as it is just a lump of limestone in the middle of the Mediterranean. The peole are amazing though, friendly, helpful, noisy (spoken Maltese sounds like a constant argument!) If you're into sea swimming/snorkelling/diving it has the best waters around. But, like others have said, it's like marmite - you either love it or hate it. We happen to love marmite! If you're going in September, try to get there for the Second Sunday in the month and head along to Mellieha for the village saint's day festival - you've never seen or heard fireworks like it!