Newbie drivetrain questions

[Wednesday]

I measured my chain for the first time last week and it was 1.5% stretched. Oops. So I've just replaced a chain and cassette for the first time.

I wasn't sure if I'd need to replace the chainrings too. From what I've read, chainring wear is visibly noticeable. I've had a good look and they seem ok to me so I've left them, but I'm new to this so I'd appreciate opinions. There are a couple of teeth on the big ring that look a bit dodgy, but it's had very little use. I took a close-up of one anyway. Sorry if this is an unreasonable number of pictures.



Also; jockey wheels. They don't look worn to me and they're about 300 miles old. Any chance they'd need replacing?

After I put the new bits on I rode up and down the street a few times to see how they felt. The middle ring seemed ok but I didn't try shifting at the front. The cogs on the cassette all seemed ok, but shifting wasn't smooth. Fine, but not smooth. This shouldn't happen from mixing brands, should it? Everything's compatible as far as I know, and I used the cassette as it came. (It's a SRAM PG850 cassette and KMC X8.93 chain. Everything else is Shimano.) I don't really mind if that's just how it is, as long as it doesn't suggest that something's wrong.

Could it be a lubrication issue? The latest chain replacement tutorial I read said that the grease that comes on the chain isn't a good lubricant and I should put some more on, but Sheldon Brown says it's totally awesome and I shouldn't dilute it with any other lube. It's really sticky and I'm worried that's it's going to attract all the gunk, but I don't know what to do with it now.

Thanks for your patience if you got this far.

 

[rusty bearing]

They look a bit chewed in one shot but can't get a proper view. Post a piccie looking directly at them( plan view?).
Shifting at the back sounds like it is probably just a matter of fine tuning the cable tension. I use a similar mix of KMC and Sram on't mtb with no probs.
Hard to say about jockey wheels but at 300 miles they are most likely ok.
Personally i agree with Sheldons view re chains. They always attract something which is why it's important to relube and wipe down as needed.

 

[Titanium]

To me, your chainrings look OK - they don't look hooked or the profiles ground away.
As for lubrication, my favourite method (after trying a few over the years) is to use a spray can of lubrication that contains PTFE or Teflon (by the way, you can often buy these spray lubes in bigger Asda or Tesco stores, Wilkinsons, etc, besides the usual bike shops). I find using this kind of spray is less sticky than other oils, and so dust and much doesn't stick to the chain as much. (By the way, WD40 isn't as good as PTFE or Teflon sprays when it comes to using on your chain, even though WD40 is good for other things).
A spray lube is easy to apply - lean your bike against a wall with the chain facing away from the wall. Make sure you can pedal the chain backwards (using your hand on the pedal). Place a sheet of paper or card between the chain and the back wheel (stops the spray going on your rims and spokes). Spraying the oil on is best done with the thing plastic 'straw' placed in the nozzle. With the spray can in one hand, pedal the chain backwards with your other hand, and spray the chain (with end of the straw about 1cm away from the chain) until the whole length has been lubed. Maybe wipe any excess off if the chain's overly lubed.
I find this method quick and easy, and a spray lube is nice and light and thin so is doesn't get all cloggy with adhering muck. I re-apply whenever the chain starts to get a bit dry. If I cycle in the rain, afterwards I'll re-apply - having first pedalled (by hand again) the chain backwards through a rag or paper towell held in my hand/around the chain. Using latex gloves helps prevent your hand getting all mucky.
I am aware of other methods for lubing your chain, using slightly thicker oils or substances, and they're probably very good, and help to 'waterproof' the chain. But for me, using Teflon / PTFE spray cans are a doddle, quick/easy/convenient/cheap... and they're less sticky than other types.

 

[Globalti]

There's no point in replacing chain and gears if you don't also treat the bike to a new gear cable. At the very least dismantle the cable system, clean and lightly lube the inner and fit a new outer where it curves around to the rear derailleur, this will improve the shifting and you'll be amazed how much it has deteriorated over the years without you realising.

 

[Wednesday]

It hasn't done anything over the years, it's less than a year and 1500 miles old! (Yes I did make an effort to look after the chain, though I could have done better in winter.) I'll give it a clean but do I need to replace anything, given it's age? The casing looks like new on the outside.

I know about lubing in general, but any opinions on whether I should do as Sheldon says and go with the grease, with no additional lube until things starts squeaking? Rusty, I'm not sure what you're agreeing with. I'm referring to this. Oh, and anyone know how it would interact with a light lube? I've got some White Lightening Epic Lube to try.

Thanks for your opinions everyone. I'll take another couple of pictures later.

 

[Globalti]

1500 miles and you haven't changed that cable outer? They do deteriorate.

 

[Wednesday]

Somewhere between 1000 and 1500. Sorry, there's so much out there I'm just trying to learn as I go along. Braking and shifting all seemed to be working so I ignored the cables, but I'll go read.

 

[rusty bearing]

Specifically agreeing with this
'New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain'.
However like all things (except taxes)it don't last forever

 

[youngoldbloke]

1500 miles and you haven't changed that cable outer? They do deteriorate.

Do you really change your cable outers after 1500 miles? Can't believe it is necessary. I changed my cables after around 15000, but only because I was changing the shifters, and a cable set was included. The old ones would have been fine for much much longer. Re original chain lubricant - do sometimes find a tendency to chain suck with a brand new chain. I just apply a small amount of lube (Prolink) if this is a problem.

 

[Globalti]

On all my bikes I have found that rear shifting deteriorates over time and a new cable outer at the rear derailleur restores performance. I usually do this every 6-12 months. The cable is quite stressed at that point and exposed to wet and road dirt and salt.