ian emmerson
Well-Known Member
Pressure at 50, from memory without looking at the tyre the max pressure is 60
Punctures
- Thread starter ian emmerson
- Start date
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HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Thats quite low but not too low, try pumping them to 60 and see how you get on. Most sidewalls usually say 85psi (shrader) and there's no harm usually going to that value, check your tyre 1st though.ian emmerson said:
ian emmerson
Well-Known Member
Thank you. will try that over the weekend
His will sound very sad and nerdish, but bear with me.
When you fit a tyre align the name with the valve, I tend to use the first letter of the brand name, it only takes a few seconds (that is the sad nerdish bit)
(Now for the clever bit) This means that whenever you have a P*nct*re you can place exactly where it occurred and can first of all check the tyre at that point, but will also let you know if there is a difficult to see embedded foreign body if it recurs at the same place.
When you fit a tyre align the name with the valve, I tend to use the first letter of the brand name, it only takes a few seconds (that is the sad nerdish bit)
(Now for the clever bit) This means that whenever you have a P*nct*re you can place exactly where it occurred and can first of all check the tyre at that point, but will also let you know if there is a difficult to see embedded foreign body if it recurs at the same place.
glass in the tyre would flat at the same point more or less surely?
are the flats on the outside where you;d expect them or the inside?
front tyre's very rarely flat, it soulds like a wheel thing to me, I had that once, try doing a few rotations of electrical tape around the inside of the wheel
are the flats on the outside where you;d expect them or the inside?
front tyre's very rarely flat, it soulds like a wheel thing to me, I had that once, try doing a few rotations of electrical tape around the inside of the wheel
ian emmerson
Well-Known Member
The damage is always on the outsde behind the tread and at a different location each time.
Although tyres are fairly new with only 200k of use it appears that even the smallest object is able to penetrate the tyre.
Will try the electriacal tape idea.
Thanks for that idea
Although tyres are fairly new with only 200k of use it appears that even the smallest object is able to penetrate the tyre.
Will try the electriacal tape idea.
Thanks for that idea
bikedoc
Active Member
- Location
- Ipswich Suffolk
Hi Ian,
One key thing to do is never remove the tyre completely from the rim until you have located the puncture hole in the tube. ie leave one bead on the rim and do not rotate the tube when you remove it from the tyre - keep it parallel with the wheel and pump it up so you can find the hole by feeling the air rush on your cheek or lips or in water, mark the hole on the tube with a piece of chalk or marker pen and offer the tube up next to the tyre so the valve is next to the valve hole and the tube is still in the same orientation as it was in the wheel at puncture time, this way the chalk mark will line up with the offending item in the tyre or the bad bit of rim/spoke head. Now finding the thorn is easy but remember to remove all. there may be more than one .
Next when you have repaired the tube or when you put a new tube in do not use any tools except your thumbs . As you fit the tube keep checking that the rim tape stays in place and the tube is not being nipped by the tyre by peering down inside the rim .
As you inflate the tyre check it stays concentric with the rim - there is a fine line visible just above the rim on the side of the tyre to help with this.
Land Cruiser are not as puncture proof (Very thin between the raised tread profile) as Marathon or better still Marathon Plus Smartguard.
Lastly, if you are still awake, check your tyres regularly for anything on its way in, you won't always get a puncture at the first revolution but sometimes after repeated miles of hammering the thorn through.
Or ( this will appeal to the paranoid) have you upset someone at your place of work/college whatever- I repair other peoples punctures for a living and sabotage is rare but not unknown, even down to removing valve cores......
best wishes and good luck...
One key thing to do is never remove the tyre completely from the rim until you have located the puncture hole in the tube. ie leave one bead on the rim and do not rotate the tube when you remove it from the tyre - keep it parallel with the wheel and pump it up so you can find the hole by feeling the air rush on your cheek or lips or in water, mark the hole on the tube with a piece of chalk or marker pen and offer the tube up next to the tyre so the valve is next to the valve hole and the tube is still in the same orientation as it was in the wheel at puncture time, this way the chalk mark will line up with the offending item in the tyre or the bad bit of rim/spoke head. Now finding the thorn is easy but remember to remove all. there may be more than one .
Next when you have repaired the tube or when you put a new tube in do not use any tools except your thumbs . As you fit the tube keep checking that the rim tape stays in place and the tube is not being nipped by the tyre by peering down inside the rim .
As you inflate the tyre check it stays concentric with the rim - there is a fine line visible just above the rim on the side of the tyre to help with this.
Land Cruiser are not as puncture proof (Very thin between the raised tread profile) as Marathon or better still Marathon Plus Smartguard.
Lastly, if you are still awake, check your tyres regularly for anything on its way in, you won't always get a puncture at the first revolution but sometimes after repeated miles of hammering the thorn through.
Or ( this will appeal to the paranoid) have you upset someone at your place of work/college whatever- I repair other peoples punctures for a living and sabotage is rare but not unknown, even down to removing valve cores......
best wishes and good luck...
andyhunter
New Member
- Location
- northern ireland
if possible i find the best cure to reduce punctures is to use aged tyres pref longer than a year to cure but i find a year does the trick and you can do this with clincher tyres/tubes does really help to reduce punctures and increase the life and preformance overall but just a hit or miss to get a puncture really you either lucky or unlucky.
catalan chris
New Member
- Location
- Bristol (all right my babby?)
bikedoc said:
Or perhaps you've inadvertently upset the cycling gods. Perhaps you need to sacrifice a small unused tricycle at the alter on Mont Ventoux.
Seriously, hats off for your perseverence. I'd be totally hacked off by now and searching for solid rubber tyres. Talking of which did anyone read an article about 6-8 months ago in one of the cyling monthlies (forget which one as i read them all) which said Hutchinsons in France are developing a solid tyre that rides like a pnuematic. Looking to launch it sometime in the next couple of years.
With reference to your ongoing problems, it sounds from what you've said that it's not your rim it's your tyre. Change it for one of the M+ s as recommended above. For extra piece of mind line the tyres with panaracer kevlar liners (see wiggle website). Pump the tyres up close to their max and as others have said have a final thought about the regular route you're cycling. There are some cycle paths in Bristol I just avoid at all costs as I can pretty much guarantee you will puncture 7 times out of ten because the local yoofs think its a grin to scatter with broken bottles.