Raleigh 10-speed restoration

[Randommoose]

Hi,

Having taken my own bicycle apart, cleaned it, replaced cables and brake block and put it all together again, I have now got the mechanical bug so want to do it again. My father has said I can have his old Raleigh 10-speed which has been sitting in a shed unused for at least 8 years, if not about 15 years.

It is a Raleigh Harrier Champion but I can't find out anything about it online. The drive is all working as it was coated in oil. Wheels turn with no noise, but due to flat tyres, I haven't ridden it. Cables, brake blocks, bar tape, mudguards, probably tyres & tubes all need replacing. The frame is fine. The seatpost is rusty but I haven't yet tried moving it. The rims have rust on, not on the braking surfaces but the other surface.

If I do restore it to riding condition, my father will pay me for parts if he still wants it (he hasn't decided). If he doesn't want it, he will give it to me (it is the right size and I want a road bike with the ability to take panniers).

What I was wondering is is there anything I need to watch out for? I know the seatpost could be a big problem but once I have the bike at my house I will find out what condition that is in.

Any hints or tips would be very gratefully accepted! I don't have a photo yet as I do not have the bike yet.

Moose

 

[montage]

This is more than likely going to have larger than 700c wheels (27 and 1/4 i think?) so watch out when buying tyres + inners. Check how true the wheels are aswell.

 

[Randommoose]

Thanks, I will check the wheel size carefully. I can true wheels so that isn't a problem.

Moose

 

[swee'pea99]

You can see it & I can't, but why are you so sure "Cables, brake blocks, bar tape, mudguards, probably tyres & tubes all need replacing."? Can't see why most of that stuff should 'go off', just thru' passage of time.

Re the seat post - could indeed be an issue, and if you ccan't set that right, it's nevergoing to be right. If it does prove stubborn, you could do worse than dribble 3-in-1 where the post enters the frame, leave it 24 hours, then try to shift it. It can penetrate, given time.

 

[Randommoose]

The cables have rusted and gone solid - in one case in kinks. Also the cables have been badly fitted and routed so have way too much slack (as in huge loops on the frame). Brake blocks are nearly worn out I think. Bar tape has been ripped off and has no padding. Mudguards are metal with a plastic covering - the plastic covering has been ripped up and possibly the metal dented (I can't actually remember) - If I can restore them, I will. Tyres and tubes I don't know - other than seeing they are flat I didn't look at them.

There is also a pannier rack which is one great lump of rust as the chrome paint has peeled off. I might try removing the rust and repainting or might get a new rack.

With the seatpost I think I will go through Sheldon Brown's list of ways to shift it if it is stuck. http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

Moose

 

[montage]

get some piccies up allready!

 

[Randommoose]

I don't have the bike here - I'll pick it up this afternoon. I will see if I can get a photo using my father's camera if I remember!

Moose

 

[swee'pea99]

The cables have rusted and gone solid - in one case in kinks. Also the cables have been badly fitted and routed so have way too much slack (as in huge loops on the frame). Brake blocks are nearly worn out I think. Bar tape has been ripped off and has no padding. Mudguards are metal with a plastic covering - the plastic covering has been ripped up and possibly the metal dented (I can't actually remember) - If I can restore them, I will. Tyres and tubes I don't know - other than seeing they are flat I didn't look at them.

There is also a pannier rack which is one great lump of rust as the chrome paint has peeled off. I might try removing the rust and repainting or might get a new rack.

With the seatpost I think I will go through Sheldon Brown's list of ways to shift it if it is stuck. http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

Moose

Yikes! Fair enough. Can't help wondering whether your enthusiasm might be better invested on a more deserving (and less demanding) beast.

 

[gbb]

Before spending anything, i'd take a real close look at the frame for corrosion.
You'll probably not find anything untoward, but i was looking at a frame for a project, thought that'll do nicely....but whan i upturned it ....huge blisters of corrosion on the underneath.

You dont want to start spending...to find its cream crackered already.

 

[Randommoose]

Thanks for that gbb, I will have a really close look. I don't plan on spending anything until I have dismantled it (particularly seatpost and stem out) and inspected it all.

Due to a lack of money, if it isn't worth redoing, I won't redo it. However, I would much rather have a bicycle that I have done the work on than a random second hand one. I really enjoy making and fixing things!

Moose

 

[Arch]

No no no! Every bike deserves a chance to live...

All that stuff is sort-able, and at the end of it there'll be one more nice rideable bike out there.

I was doing Bike Doctor stuff at the weekend and a chap came along with a nice 10spd Raleigh lugged steel frame, drop bars and downtube shifters, steel rims: he'd just inherited it from an old chap, and it was lovely, and it suited the guy - they were both understated and gentle looking. That one didn't need much doing, he just wanted maintenance advice. I quite fell in love with it.

If 3-in-1 doesn't penetrate the seatpost, try Plusgas, it's thinner and so penetrates better.

 

[accountantpete]

Is this the bike? - it looks like it has 28 x 1.5 wheels.

 

[swee'pea99]

No no no! Every bike deserves a chance to live...

All that stuff is sort-able, and at the end of it there'll be one more nice rideable bike out there.

I was doing Bike Doctor stuff at the weekend and a chap came along with a nice 10spd Raleigh lugged steel frame, drop bars and downtube shifters, steel rims: he'd just inherited it from an old chap, and it was lovely, and it suited the guy - they were both understated and gentle looking. That one didn't need much doing, he just wanted maintenance advice. I quite fell in love with it.

If 3-in-1 doesn't penetrate the seatpost, try Plusgas, it's thinner and so penetrates better.

It's hard to disagree, but sentiment can be a route to disappointment. Raleigh made some nice bikes, but they made a lot of dogs too, and if googling doesn't produce anything, it seems likely that this is a bit of a hound and maybe not worth the effort & cost. Not when there's things like this here & there and roundabout. Personally I think I'd rather get the Holdsworth and spend my time fine-tuning...

 

[Arch]

yes, but... It's not a case of the OP choosing a bike to renovate, is it? It's taking a bike that's available and making it better. And a grand way to improve one's improv/mackling skills.

OK, if it turns out to be irretrievable, put it down and look elsewhere, but give it a go....

Yeah, if I had a big enough shed (or, any shed), I'd be rescuing all sorts of sad stuff....

 

[Randommoose]

Hi,

Thank you everyone for your replies. Accountantpete, that is not the bike.

Updates:
Seat post came out easy peasy - turns out it is only rusted on the exposed bit - the bit inside the frame is clean apart from grease so that is good.

Tyres are 27x1 1/4.

A few more specs (most of this doesn't mean anything to me as I don't know what brands are good):

Steel frame - no maker mark I can see, no rust other than a couple of scratches. Words on frame are "Raleigh", "Harrier", "Champion" and a sticker saying "Harrier, made by Falcon".
Shimano RS rear derailleur
Shimano FE front derailleur
Sugino 52-40 chainring
14-24 rear (I couldn't be bothered to count the ones in the middle)
Lyotard metal pedals (very rusty!)
SR stem
Unbranded drop handlebars
Unbranded brake levers and side pull brakes
Downtube shifters
Front and back dynamo driven lights + tyre dynamo
Mudguards
Mallard hub (+ 30 Made in France) on front, can't see marking on back one , Rigida Superchromix rims (with the diamond edges), Shinko golden Boy HF tyres.

I want to take it apart anyway, for the practice if nothing else.

If I can restore it for the cost of some cable, a few brake blocks, bar tape and lots of elbow grease I would like to.

Moose