Remove and replace part of door frame

[Tenkaykev]

I'm after advice as to the best way to remove and reinstate the separator between an upper and lower door containing our Hot Water tank.
The existing tank is undersized and a taller one will have to go in. I need to remove and replace the wood with minimal damage
Many thanks.

 

[si_c]

Have a look at the back of the separator, it may be joined by pocket screws, if not then chances are there is a mechanical joint you can't get to , so wouldn't be able to easily remove and repair.

How hard would it be to remove the entire fascia?

 

[Tenkaykev]

Have a look at the back of the separator, it may be joined by pocket screws, if not then chances are there is a mechanical joint you can't get to , so wouldn't be able to easily remove and repair.

How hard would it be to remove the entire fascia?

Thanks for your reply. The fascia removal is not feasible I'm afraid as it's part of a custom made floor to ceiling facade with mirror wardrobe one side and the ( disguised) HW tank cupboard the other side of a dressing table. The chap who built it ( over 20 years ago ) was a friend of a work colleague, he was a carpenter who worked on listed buildings amongst other things and made a lot of his own ( oak ) furniture. I can't see any fixings, but your mention of screws got me thinking to trya magnet in the area and see what comes to light.

 

[MontyVeda]

if it's a mortice and tenon then just cut it out with a handsaw. If there's screws then cut those with a hacksaw or an oscillating tool.

 

[newts]

If it's a mortice & tenon joint, you could cut from the back tenon shoulder line with a thin kerf saw (dovetail/Japanese handsaw). Cut until you've gone through the tenon, this would leave the front tenon shoulder line intact. When fitted back in place with mending plates/pocket screws the front face of the joint will be as before.

 

[Jameshow]

If it's a mortice & tenon joint, you could cut from the back tenon shoulder line with a thin kerf saw (dovetail/Japanese handsaw). Cut until you've gone through the tenon, this would leave the front tenon shoulder line intact. When fitted back in place with mending plates/pocket screws the front face of the joint will be as before.

I.e. cut from behind until you cut through the tenon.

 

[newts]

I.e. cut from behind until you cut through the tenon.

Yes, keeping the leading edge of the teeth parallel to the back face of the middle rail.
Once the tenons are cut the rail should come out with a few light tap downards with a mallet & wood block.
Cutting from the back will leave front shoulder intact.

 

[presta]

Won't the tank fit by tilting it as you put it in?

 

[Tenkaykev]

Won't the tank fit by tilting it as you put it in?

Thanks to all of you who have offered advice. I will look at cutting from behind as suggested, sounds like the way to go. I will investigate Kerf saws, I only have a Junior Hacksaw, and a coping saw frame minus blade ( I know, need more cutting tools).
I did look at the possibility of tilting the new tank but the cupboard is too shallow and not deep enough.

 

[newts]

This would be ideal.
https://www.toolstation.com/minotaur-toolbox-saw/p15843

 

[Bazzer]

Depending upon access a Japanese saw, would also work. Although these cut on the draw not the push and they are extremely sharp.
https://www.axminstertools.com/hand-tools/saws/japanese-saws

 

[MontyVeda]

Depending upon access a Japanese saw, would also work. Although these cut on the draw not the push and they are extremely sharp.
https://www.axminstertools.com/hand-tools/saws/japanese-saws

a very fine kerf too, which would be ideal if the OP is putting the rail back in (but most likely there'll still be a visible gap)

 

[Tenkaykev]

Just to wrap up this thread, I took a powerful magnet to the area and there was a faint attraction. I couldn't see any obvious way and I had felt along the blind side of the rail but thought I would look again. The rail is indeed screwed into place with a couple of small gauge screws at a very shallow angle with the access holes much further back towards the centre of the rail.
I have purchased the recommended saw anyway as I have another job that it will be ideal for.
Thanks to everyone for your valuable advice 👍